Kando Dynamics Turbo

[luvpsi]

Rear housing or manifold

[rondofj]

the problem I see is welding a circular v-band ring onto my bellmouth shaped dump (after cutting off its flange), might become obsolete as you say... and the HG ss turbos are around $1550 with GST incl not 1400 - so still expensive, being a 'bang for buck' item..

[GTScotT]

If I can get the TD06SL-20G kit in 10cm housing for say, $700-750, a Tial 40mm gate for 320ish (or a cheaper just-as-good gate, options??) and $100-200 to weld the gate onto my dump, modify dump by cutting off bellmouth flange and welding V-band ring on (possible? issues?), then it sort of adds up to the cost of a HG SS1PU with actuator which is 1400ish....that is assuming I can get the fabrication done cheap, I know its a bit of work but not much..

Just one thing, are most of yous welding the external gates to the turbo rear housing or onto the dump itself??

Thats pretty much spot on. Get the 10cm 20g, cut n shut your dump, weld the gate off the rear housing, plumb it into the dump as far down as you can, presto.

Just to clarify, the gate needs to be fed pre turbine. So either off the housing or the manifold. You cant feed it off the dump as you will be trying to regulate post turbine gases.... AKA no boost control, hello 40psi.

IMHO there is no such thing as a snappy 280kw... The HKS 2835 Pro S is the closest most reliable thing you will get, but that is rare and sought after. Between some of us we believe the 10cm TD06SL2 20g is the alternative, but it requires the external gate to match.

Otherwise you can go the HG.

[GTScotT]

To further clarify you will NEED to firmly understand the task described before you go asking people to do the required mods. IE the WG plumbing.

[Hanaldo]

Just one thing, are most of yous welding the external gates to the turbo rear housing or onto the dump itself??

I would at this stage suggest that you go and research how all this stuff works. You're going to cause yourself a lot of problems if you don't understand what you are actually doing to your car. If you don't know what a V-Band flange is or how it works, go and research it. If you don't know how an external gate works, or why it may be necessary or unnecessary for your setup and what you are trying to achieve, go and research it.

It will take a few hours, and then when you understand it all, you can come back and start thinking about what you are going to do and you will reap the benefits of knowing these things.

[SimonR32]

Scott, many thanks for the useful info, and no, 250rwkw is not my goal, I want a snappy 280-300rwkw and that is why I have narrowed down the turbo to the SS1PU, and now reading all this Kando stuff has brought it a new competitor albeit in different ways to it being an external gate setup.. As I'm fairly new to external gated setups and learning heaps currently, I am tossing between the two and there seem to be quite a few on here who are saying good things about the Kando's fast spool and snapppy response.. If I can get the TD06SL-20G kit in 10cm housing for say, $700-750, a Tial 40mm gate for 320ish (or a cheaper just-as-good gate, options??) and $100-200 to weld the gate onto my dump, modify dump by cutting off bellmouth flange and welding V-band ring on (possible? issues?), then it sort of adds up to the cost of a HG SS1PU with actuator which is 1400ish....that is assuming I can get the fabrication done cheap, I know its a bit of work but not much..

Just one thing, are most of yous welding the external gates to the turbo rear housing or onto the dump itself??

Some advice for you!

TD06SL2 10cm $750

Tial 44mm $400

Screamer Pipe $100

Welding gate to rear housing $150

Modifying current dump to suit v-band $150

New Intake pipe $150

Total $1700

That probably about all you will need to spend and they are realistic prices on what you should pay, if you can get the fabrication done cheaper then even better. Considering the Hypergear is $1550 (and you still need a intake pipe, gaskets etc) they would end up coming in around the same price

Also... You can't weld the gate onto the dump as it removes the gases before they hit the turbine, you asking that question really scares me that you have no idea

Edited December 15, 2011 by SimonR32

[rondofj]

Thanks Simon, yours was the best answer that I was looking for, and you too Scott, so now I gotta weigh up the pros and cons of both setups... Just thinking about drilling thru the rear housing of the turbo o plumb the wastegate in...kinda yucky..metal filings goin in through the housing and onto the wheels/bearings causing failure down the track....just thoughts

[scotty nm35]

Lol.

You remove the housing from the turbo first...

[R33 Eddy]

Thanks Simon, yours was the best answer that I was looking for, and you too Scott, so now I gotta weigh up the pros and cons of both setups... Just thinking about drilling thru the rear housing of the turbo o plumb the wastegate in...kinda yucky..metal filings goin in through the housing and onto the wheels/bearings causing failure down the track....just thoughts

Go back maybe 6 pages and you will see the rear housing that has the wastgate attached. this picture clearly shows just the rear housing and might help you understand what is needed to be done.

[R33 Eddy]

Ok i was bored so went back myself

here is the link to the post with pictures http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347726-kando-dynamics-turbo/page__view__findpost__p__6109721

[GTScotT]

That probably about all you will need to spend and they are realistic prices on what you should pay, if you can get the fabrication done cheaper then even better. Considering the Hypergear is $1550 (and you still need a intake pipe, gaskets etc) they would end up coming in around the same price

You need a new intake and pipes for both.

The SS1PU has the same fitment issues on the compressor side as the 20G. 3" in 2" out.

The HG WILL be cheaper, there is no doubt about it.

I believe the 20G will be more track friendly (big 44mm gate to let off steam) and will probably deliver a more consistent result. Again due to the external gate.

For all we know an external gate SS1PU could be even better. But he doesnt make external gate housings for them as most customers want a stealthy simple install.

Again recommending the SS1PU.......

[ARTZ]

Again recommending the SS1PU.......

+1..lots of lols in here today...

[SimonR32]

ARTZ, could you add up the costs you have dished out for?

[ARTZ]

hmm roughly..

KD turbo 700$...ebay

tial 44mm with 7 springs 385$...ebay

3 inch mandrel to make dump 40$..

some gates flameproof hose lets say 30$

10mm spacers are 45$ at GCG..i had one already.

modified rear housing and other bits and pieces of welding required...numerous sexual favours

there is a few other fittings, gaskets etc u will need that dont cost much 10$ each maybe..

all up its not too expensive but you either need to have a good TIG welder and some skills, or know people that do...

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>PLUG FOR SCOTTYNM35 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

otherwise getting everything custom made could easily hit up 500$

if you cheap out on a wastegate it could come in under 1000$

not including all the extras of course...ecu injectors cooler yadda yadda

[rondofj]

Kando kit comes with gaskets n hoses on ebay, do u really need the flameproof ones?? Where can i find the dyno graph for a kando making 280-300rwkw on a rb25? Not in the rb25 dyno thread, cannot find one, except Simon's one but thats too overkill for me for what im chasing..

[ARTZ]

just get Hypergear man and stop asking stupid Qs

kando kit comes with a long enough oil line yes but it only comes with 30cm braided water lines, you need the hose to extend them..or you can just get proper length braided hose made up if you like to do things properly..

PS..please stop asking for dyno sheets there is none and the asking is getting tedious...READ THE THREAD!!!!

[GTScotT]

If you read this thread from start to finish you will see there isnt one yet.

There are some pioneers coming up here but it takes time. If you want to take the reigns please go ahead, we are all interested.

[Super Drager]

Havn't read through all 68 pages, but what turbo is the T67-25G comparable to? GT35R? Sorry if its a stupid question.

Edited December 15, 2011 by Super Drager

[rondofj]

Artz, if u dont like my stupid Qs, theres one thing u can do - SHUT THE f**k UP. Your rudeness is not needed, these forums are here to help people to learn and experienced users to provide input if they like, if u find some users asking basic seemingly dumb Qs thats cos they need help and are trying to learn, I cannot be more grateful to a forum like SAU apart from the occassional rude dicks like u, if u dont like it, nobodys asking u to pull out ur butt plug and release garbage here. Thanks but no thanks!!

[Hanaldo]

Yeh but you're asking the same questions over and over again dude. Fair enough you want answers, but you don't seem to want to accept them if they aren't the one you are looking for.

You've been told that the Kando setup will most likely be more than the HG turbo, and in fact the Kando setup does not suit what you want. You have said you want an internally gated, bolt on turbo that is capable of 280-300rwkw. The HG turbo suits that perfectly. All questions answered.