Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the reply jez, yeah through my. Countless hours of reading this topic I've gathered that the internally gated ones have been a bit of a let down, I'm just really wanting to know if it's plausible to have the externally gated versions low mount, high mount isn't something I've ever really wanted, wow factor doesn't really do much for me. :)

You can go the same way dori34 or artz both external gated. I'm currtently doing another low mounted td06 with external gate off the manifold found a way to use stock crossover pipe so looks stock. If you pm me I can send you some photos so you get the idea

Hey peoples finally got my turbo. Will take some more pics with it bolted onto the manifold when I get 5Mins.

The turbo is a Billet TD06SH-25G. 12CM turbine housing, TD07 comp housing with 3" anti surge.

Can you post up a link for sourcing this particular unit?

Be interested to know if there is a V band outlet option on that turbine housing. First time I've seen a 12cm option - the focus has been on 8 and 10.

Hey Dale, they don't list an actual turbo in the exact spec. I asked for 1 to be supplied with the following specs. it cost me $949.00 delivered

http://www.ebay.com....:X:eRTM:AU:1123

http://www.ebay.com....=item4164c85adf

http://www.ebay.com....=item43af2f90d7

This is listed as a TDO6H 25G. I know it's been covered previously, just confirming the detail - this unit runs exactly the same impellers as SimonR32 does with his T67 25G, but with a smaller diameter shaft?

And then obviously you've ordered the billet compressor option?

This is listed as a TDO6H 25G. I know it's been covered previously, just confirming the detail - this unit runs exactly the same impellers as SimonR32 does with his T67 25G, but with a smaller diameter shaft?

And then obviously you've ordered the billet compressor option?

Yes, now I see the difference. Yours should have the H spec 12 bladed inconel rotor, while there is also a same size/different design H4 spec 11 bladed rotor used with the 84mm compressor.

The TD06H 25G 12cm should match pretty well with a 30DET. I wonder if the billet compressor will offer any advantage in response/efficiency under 20psi.

if you go back some pages Dale i believe somebody is building one of them^^^^^

Yes, it was Urtwhistle, we have had a bit of back/forth in this thread, continuing from pics he posted up in another thread showing a high-mount dummied up on his 30DET in a R34.

Scott I would think the 11 blader likely to be less restrictive at higher flow rates, and therefore probably less responsive if it was mated to the 25G compressor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...