Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 09/05/2012 at 4:40 AM, DVS JEZ said:

U are spot on. Thats why i try to convince most customers to do everything at once then to keep adding parts that require a retune. Costs more up front but saves alot down the track

Hence why it has taken me 2 years to finish my damn car, because i KEPT adding to it.... :P BUT overall it will be worth it once its all tuned....

  On 09/05/2012 at 9:15 AM, chris_82 said:

So if u were to run 15psi Jez how much would u expect it to creep ?

As BSA said. This was the minimum boost we

Could run which means no boost controller at all. We even held the wastegate flap open and it still climbed past 22psi

  On 09/05/2012 at 4:43 AM, DVS JEZ said:

Except when the minimum boost it will run is 18psi. Ask Mitcho. I dont feel its safe to try max the injectors out and leave them running like that.

Or 20 psi like I found haha

More boost the bigger the smile :D

  On 09/05/2012 at 4:43 AM, DVS JEZ said:

Except when the minimum boost it will run is 18psi. Ask Mitcho. I dont feel its safe to try max the injectors out and leave them running like that.

there are plenty of successful highflows running 15psi or less mate, cmon........

  On 09/05/2012 at 4:43 AM, DVS JEZ said:

Except when the minimum boost it will run is 18psi. Ask Mitcho. I dont feel its safe to try max the injectors out and leave them running like that.

Yeh, it's a bit of a lucky dip with the actuator you get with the HG turbos. I asked for a 14psi several times but on the dyno it wouldn't run any less than 18psi like Jez mentioned. I dont know if there's anyway to tell what actuator it is without it being on the dyno either, so you won't know til you get it tuned...

  On 09/05/2012 at 9:39 AM, Kasko said:

Or 20 psi like I found haha

More boost the bigger the smile :D

The more tears long term as well maybe haha!

20 psi is probably fine though and it's not like you are hitting 20psi all day everyday either. It'd be for a couple of seconds max on the street. If you are at a track on full load for several laps or whatever then it might not be ideal for a stock engines longevity...

On a side note, birds made 250+rwkw on only 16psi with his ss1pu I think. So good numbers are possible without needing to run lots of boost.

Edited by Mitcho_7
  On 09/05/2012 at 10:45 PM, Mitcho_7 said:

The more tears long term as well maybe haha!

20 psi is probably fine though and it's not like you are hitting 20psi all day everyday either. It'd be for a couple of seconds max on the street. If you are at a track on full load for several laps or whatever then it might not be ideal for a stock engines longevity...

On a side note, birds made 250+rwkw on only 16psi with his ss1pu I think. So good numbers are possible without needing to run lots of boost.

Yeah we put birds results down to difference in dyno.

Or he has a healthy engine.

Jez warned me about tracking the car on 20psi but I dont have plans to track it just yet.

When I do I will source a better quality actuator with say 14psi then bring it up using my ebc

Anyways lol talking about hyper gear in kando thread.

Back on topic

What ever happened with the bloke and his cracked comp wheel?

lol thought I was in the HG thread for a second.

  On 09/05/2012 at 10:45 PM, Mitcho_7 said:

On a side note, birds made 250+rwkw on only 16psi with his ss1pu I think. So good numbers are possible without needing to run lots of boost.

Yer 258rwkw and 16psi from the SS1PU highflow, though interestingly, it was sitting at 15psi where it made peak power. There's definitely more in it too - my setup has also been said to have a lot of restrictions, though I do have quite a healthy engine. RacePace's dyno has never been said to read happy, however, Jez's could read low too.

In the end, screw figures, all that matters is whether it puts a smile on your face when you mash the pedal, and mine does :)

Hey guys. I'm getting a td06sl2-25g. Just wondering is it work the risk of getting the anti surge housing. Or should I just stick to what works and get one without anti surge. Btw 10cm rear with a/r 0.60 comp housing

  On 10/05/2012 at 11:54 PM, adam999111 said:

Hey guys. I'm getting a td06sl2-25g. Just wondering is it work the risk of getting the anti surge housing. Or should I just stick to what works and get one without anti surge. Btw 10cm rear with a/r 0.60 comp housing

The general consensus here is to get the T67 instead. The specs of the wheels are the same, but the T67 uses a TD07 shaft which is thicker and stronger.

The T67 also has a .70 AR comp housing, which will effectively need less boost for the same levels of flow, and is an oil only turbo which makes it a bit neater to set up in the bay.

Go the T67 10cm!

Nah I didn't mean 20g I meant 25g. I think it will be too laggy and a headache to fit low mount on standard manifold (0.70 a/r) which is what I want to do hence why I would like the 0.60. The only difference is the housing a/r and the shaft diameter which is only 8% smaller. I would like to see full boost before 4000 on around 18psi. I haven't seen a t67 reach full boost before 4000rpm on 98. I would be happy to be corrected as I could go a t67 with billet wheel.

Mate the difference between a TD06SL2 and a T67 (in terms of performance) is only the difference in the comp cover.

That seriously wont effect spool like what you are imagining, its more so going to effect how much flow the compressor can give at what pressure ratio. And as stated the larger housing is going to need less pressure to flow the same amount. The spool difference is likely to be negligable.

Trying to fit it on the standard lowmount though, now your talking a different can of beans... And I suggest you consider a hypergear instead. Be it myself, I would rather a standard issue hypergear G3 than I would a T67 on a low mount. If you were to put a highmount into it I would then say Go the T67.

I disagree that spoil difference is negligible. Unless negligible is 300rpm. A larger housing will take longer to compress air as its the same wheel filling a larger area. Regardless the question was with regards to the anti surge housing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
    • I used to love going to Amaroo to watch the HQ series go for broke (eventually stopped due to lack of spare parts) and also the Porsche series.  It was so cool to back your car up to nearly the edge of the viewing barrier and party with your friends, having a bbq and alcoholic/non drinks. It was such a family/mates atmosphere
×
×
  • Create New...