Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I thought the precision was a higher HP rating turbo then the t67.? are you on pump 98 or e85?

car drives really well, still on the laggy side, fullboost around 4500 mark, but pulls nicely, bit of a tyre fryer, completey different to 3582r.

Seriously considering WMI now when I get back to Oz after my hols.. Btw am running stock clutch @286rwkw hahahah- lets see when it grenades.. :P

Well you better start deciding which kit to run now then, if it takes you as long as it did choosing turbos...lol..j/k

cheers

darren

+1 haha

^^^true story haha :P . Methz Im on 98 and the 5558 is supposed to be the equivalent of a 3076R and I see fullboost 18psi at 4000ish rpms so yeah bit smaller than a T67, Im not a turbo expert though, this is all I know.. Now which WMI kit haha...

made 450hp @ wheels on 24psi with t67-25g 10cm last night. wasnt far behind the old gt3582r that was on it. curve is completey different, on song around 1000rpm earlier. should be fun 2 drive.

Anti Surge front? Or normal?

Just a quick question a little off topic... i have looked everywhere for answers but obviously in the wrong places... just wondering is it hard to run a T67 high mount setup and plumb back all piping witht the standard intake plenum? (on a R34 GTT with return flow FMIC) I assume a new J pipe and a bit of custom fab will achieve it ok?? Just wanted to make sure it is do-able as i may be heading in this path very soon and wanted to forsee any drama's before they happen. Any experiances or pics would be gre at.. cheers.

The kit im looking at comes with a 4inch to 3inch silicone adaptor and 3inch intake pipe which i assume i could run my Z32 AFM off?

This is what im looking at...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R33-Skyline-T67-High-Mount-Turbo-Kit-Manifold-Wastegate-Kinugawa-rb25-Gts-t-/251202699172?_trksid=m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4425545948146766239&_qi=RTM839192

Edited by swarzee

I already have...

750cc injectors

full 3 inch exhaust (3.5ich from cat back)

Apexi power fc

Z32 AFM

3in K&N POD filter

Heavy Dutch Xtreme Clutch

Clutch, Exhaust and POD are already on the car.

Tryin to put together how much the whole install would cost with what i already have if i bought this kit off ebay. Which i probably will.

anti surge

The anit surge seems to make a lot less power then the non ported one? Or am i the only one thinking this? Response etc sounds the same, just down a bit on power?

Just a quick question a little off topic... i have looked everywhere for answers but obviously in the wrong places... just wondering is it hard to run a T67 high mount setup and plumb back all piping witht the standard intake plenum? (on a R34 GTT with return flow FMIC) I assume a new J pipe and a bit of custom fab will achieve it ok?? Just wanted to make sure it is do-able as i may be heading in this path very soon and wanted to forsee any drama's before they happen. Any experiances or pics would be gre at.. cheers.

I have a T67 on mine, you need to fabricate a new pipe to go to the throttle body, you cant follow the same path over the top of the fan and across as the intake of the turbo is in the way, and no way will a return flow work, you will need to go a normal style intercooler layout with the cold side coming out under the battery.There is then height problems to the bonnet as R34's have the factory coolant bleeder right where you want to run the piping to keep it low, R33's dont have this, i removed the bleeder and the piping just fits.

The intake on the turbo is also very close to the loop of the power steering hose, you need a very tight bend. Because of this and the length of the intake piping putting the AFM in the piping is better to avoid reversion.

I have normal .7 front cover here also if i need 2 swap them out. I was thinking the covers wouldnt make much difference at all?

Just going off what you did and Moogz (i think thats his username?) did and myself with the anti surge versus some other results with the normal housings, of course accounting for the difference between roller and hubber dyno's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...