Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes very tempted....looks i can only gain it definately has more top end and loses nothing anywhere else :D

its asking alot of my stock manifold, though in theory i could make the same power I do now with a little less boost...

to me the theoretical limit is in absolutes, so you could still gain midrange :)

its a gamble but seems worth it for sure! And it would be a true back to back for everyone moving forward.

Aren't you simply running moire boost so jump in mid range and power kind of expected?

need to compare thin blue power line to pink line, more power with less boost. i have a feeling the exhaust manifold heaps here too.

yeah i'm a little confused too Roy, the date on the paper is same date I got mine tuned yet neither graph looks to be mine, as mine seems to fall somewhere inbetween the pink and blue....its actually closer to the pink but with a bit more boost and im topping out earlier..Im wondering if the standard manifold is helping create a little more torque in my midrange as well..

and why is Staos car 10kms slower at 6060rpm??

r33e85tune001_zps3bc225db.jpg20gvspower_zpsb09b9c3c.jpg

the times also dont match, maybe an earlier tune than my final been used or maybe my tune with a high mount got a different result I dunno......obviously I dont yet fully understand the intricacies of dyno tuning but I daresay the small differences we see are just mechanical.....i was also running a 3.5 ex and screamer at time of tune..it has all been plumbed back now..

I think its fair to say the manifold has made some difference. But, it is also fair to say Staos new wheel can definitely pump more boost and power than mine ever could as other cars with the sl2 and high mount haven't made that much power that I know of and usually die out around 20psi... the fact he is making more power even though the boost is dropping off a good 3 psi has to say something about its performance...

unfortunately I'm unemployed and going back to school, so too strapped for cash (read missus will kill me if she sees me spend money on that car) to try it atm but it would be good too do as I think it would be an improvement..got any work Stao maybe I could do some deliveries or wash and detail your car or something, cause technically a fair trade is not spending money on my car right..at least thats what I tell the wife.? :rofl:

So I want a new turbo for my RB20DET as its going to be pointless swapping my VG30 OP6 turbo onto my RB20DET-R manifold. Thinking this TD06SL2 8cm with Garrett 60-1 compressor would be a good thing. I have Nistune, Z32 AFM, GT-R injectors, unopened motor, RB20DET-R spaghetti manifold. I am thinking internal gate as space will be at a premium with the turbo placement on that manifold for tapping the exhaust housing for ex. gate, and no way in hell am I cutting up the manifold itself. I'd like to shoot for 1.2-1.5bar boost and hopefully 220-240rwkw.

Is it going to be completely useless for my application?

I was otherwise going to go for a T3/T4 60 trim Garrett with ATP's 'ultimate internal gate' (ford bolt on type)to try and replicate the GTS-R's T04E as closely as possible but the Kando seems an equally good option for a lot less money by the time you factor in all the fittings and stuff.

Thoughts?

Hell no, I ain't selling that thing ever! And yeah I'd never chop it up, no way no how. Its been suggested I weld an elbow onto an external gate housing and run a gate off that, or run a spacer with a gate pipe between turbo and manifold, but I think I'm going to run out of room in either situation there (strut tower in the first instance and engine mounts in the second), so I just want to know if I can reasonably successfully run an internal gate at that kind of power/boost level.

Edited by floody

For 220-240 and internal gate why arent you considering a hypergear?

Get him to make you an SS1PU with a 3" vband outlet on the back, or you can just get the current turbo highflowed to that spec and it will bolt straight back on.

It will be the simplest possible setup you can imagine and should shit in 220. I cant understand why its being overlooked....

For 220-240 and internal gate why arent you considering a hypergear?

Get him to make you an SS1PU with a 3" vband outlet on the back, or you can just get the current turbo highflowed to that spec and it will bolt straight back on.

It will be the simplest possible setup you can imagine and should shit in 220. I cant understand why its being overlooked....

Mostly because I know nothing about them, nobody I know has ever used one, but looking at the spec on their website it sounds like a good thing. That said, its more expensive than even the Garrett option I'm looking at, and almost double the cost of the Kando for the turbo and v-band gate alone. Which is fine if its twice as good?

Edited by floody

lets not get our knickers in a twist.

I dont see how a garrett could be cheaper than a HG, or how you could consider a kando to be half the price if you had read this thread all the way through. Kando VS HG is something that has been discussed on nearly half the pages in here.

A HG shouldnt cost you any more than $1,100 regardless of which model your looking at. A kando will cost $800, plus $400 for a gate, and probably another $500 to hang the gate off the housing and make a custom dump. The HG will come with the same 6 bolt dump flange you have now if you want it to and will bolt right on as an internal gate.

None of the options available can be said to be better than the other, they all have their ups and downs and you need to read the threads to familiarize yourself with them.

lets not get our knickers in a twist.

I dont see how a garrett could be cheaper than a HG, or how you could consider a kando to be half the price if you had read this thread all the way through. Kando VS HG is something that has been discussed on nearly half the pages in here.

A HG shouldnt cost you any more than $1,100 regardless of which model your looking at. A kando will cost $800, plus $400 for a gate, and probably another $500 to hang the gate off the housing and make a custom dump. The HG will come with the same 6 bolt dump flange you have now if you want it to and will bolt right on as an internal gate.

None of the options available can be said to be better than the other, they all have their ups and downs and you need to read the threads to familiarize yourself with them.

The Garrett I am interested in is $740USD for the bare turbo with my choice of exhaust housing, $168usd for the v-band bolt on gate; $908AUD currently. Plus an unknown amount to ship.

The Kando is $785, including a bunch of fittings, choice of wastegate actuator etc.

The Hypergear is listed on site at $1150 for the bare turbo plus $180 for the wastegate, plus shipping.

All linked in my previous post.

So on my maths, so long as the Garrett doesn't cost more than $300 to ship it should come in as cheap as or cheaper than the HG's pre-shipping cost, and no, HG's $1330 isn't double $785 but its getting close. I don't need or want the 6 bolt flange I have now, because the long tube GTS-R manifold turns the turbo almost 90° and sites it lower than the non-R cast manifolds do; no matter what I will be having a V-band dump made.

My preference is for an internal gate turbo (either cast in or bolt on gate) with a V-band outlet.

Edited by floody

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...