Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes very tempted....looks i can only gain it definately has more top end and loses nothing anywhere else :D

its asking alot of my stock manifold, though in theory i could make the same power I do now with a little less boost...

to me the theoretical limit is in absolutes, so you could still gain midrange :)

its a gamble but seems worth it for sure! And it would be a true back to back for everyone moving forward.

Aren't you simply running moire boost so jump in mid range and power kind of expected?

need to compare thin blue power line to pink line, more power with less boost. i have a feeling the exhaust manifold heaps here too.

yeah i'm a little confused too Roy, the date on the paper is same date I got mine tuned yet neither graph looks to be mine, as mine seems to fall somewhere inbetween the pink and blue....its actually closer to the pink but with a bit more boost and im topping out earlier..Im wondering if the standard manifold is helping create a little more torque in my midrange as well..

and why is Staos car 10kms slower at 6060rpm??

r33e85tune001_zps3bc225db.jpg20gvspower_zpsb09b9c3c.jpg

the times also dont match, maybe an earlier tune than my final been used or maybe my tune with a high mount got a different result I dunno......obviously I dont yet fully understand the intricacies of dyno tuning but I daresay the small differences we see are just mechanical.....i was also running a 3.5 ex and screamer at time of tune..it has all been plumbed back now..

I think its fair to say the manifold has made some difference. But, it is also fair to say Staos new wheel can definitely pump more boost and power than mine ever could as other cars with the sl2 and high mount haven't made that much power that I know of and usually die out around 20psi... the fact he is making more power even though the boost is dropping off a good 3 psi has to say something about its performance...

unfortunately I'm unemployed and going back to school, so too strapped for cash (read missus will kill me if she sees me spend money on that car) to try it atm but it would be good too do as I think it would be an improvement..got any work Stao maybe I could do some deliveries or wash and detail your car or something, cause technically a fair trade is not spending money on my car right..at least thats what I tell the wife.? :rofl:

So I want a new turbo for my RB20DET as its going to be pointless swapping my VG30 OP6 turbo onto my RB20DET-R manifold. Thinking this TD06SL2 8cm with Garrett 60-1 compressor would be a good thing. I have Nistune, Z32 AFM, GT-R injectors, unopened motor, RB20DET-R spaghetti manifold. I am thinking internal gate as space will be at a premium with the turbo placement on that manifold for tapping the exhaust housing for ex. gate, and no way in hell am I cutting up the manifold itself. I'd like to shoot for 1.2-1.5bar boost and hopefully 220-240rwkw.

Is it going to be completely useless for my application?

I was otherwise going to go for a T3/T4 60 trim Garrett with ATP's 'ultimate internal gate' (ford bolt on type)to try and replicate the GTS-R's T04E as closely as possible but the Kando seems an equally good option for a lot less money by the time you factor in all the fittings and stuff.

Thoughts?

Hell no, I ain't selling that thing ever! And yeah I'd never chop it up, no way no how. Its been suggested I weld an elbow onto an external gate housing and run a gate off that, or run a spacer with a gate pipe between turbo and manifold, but I think I'm going to run out of room in either situation there (strut tower in the first instance and engine mounts in the second), so I just want to know if I can reasonably successfully run an internal gate at that kind of power/boost level.

Edited by floody

For 220-240 and internal gate why arent you considering a hypergear?

Get him to make you an SS1PU with a 3" vband outlet on the back, or you can just get the current turbo highflowed to that spec and it will bolt straight back on.

It will be the simplest possible setup you can imagine and should shit in 220. I cant understand why its being overlooked....

For 220-240 and internal gate why arent you considering a hypergear?

Get him to make you an SS1PU with a 3" vband outlet on the back, or you can just get the current turbo highflowed to that spec and it will bolt straight back on.

It will be the simplest possible setup you can imagine and should shit in 220. I cant understand why its being overlooked....

Mostly because I know nothing about them, nobody I know has ever used one, but looking at the spec on their website it sounds like a good thing. That said, its more expensive than even the Garrett option I'm looking at, and almost double the cost of the Kando for the turbo and v-band gate alone. Which is fine if its twice as good?

Edited by floody

lets not get our knickers in a twist.

I dont see how a garrett could be cheaper than a HG, or how you could consider a kando to be half the price if you had read this thread all the way through. Kando VS HG is something that has been discussed on nearly half the pages in here.

A HG shouldnt cost you any more than $1,100 regardless of which model your looking at. A kando will cost $800, plus $400 for a gate, and probably another $500 to hang the gate off the housing and make a custom dump. The HG will come with the same 6 bolt dump flange you have now if you want it to and will bolt right on as an internal gate.

None of the options available can be said to be better than the other, they all have their ups and downs and you need to read the threads to familiarize yourself with them.

lets not get our knickers in a twist.

I dont see how a garrett could be cheaper than a HG, or how you could consider a kando to be half the price if you had read this thread all the way through. Kando VS HG is something that has been discussed on nearly half the pages in here.

A HG shouldnt cost you any more than $1,100 regardless of which model your looking at. A kando will cost $800, plus $400 for a gate, and probably another $500 to hang the gate off the housing and make a custom dump. The HG will come with the same 6 bolt dump flange you have now if you want it to and will bolt right on as an internal gate.

None of the options available can be said to be better than the other, they all have their ups and downs and you need to read the threads to familiarize yourself with them.

The Garrett I am interested in is $740USD for the bare turbo with my choice of exhaust housing, $168usd for the v-band bolt on gate; $908AUD currently. Plus an unknown amount to ship.

The Kando is $785, including a bunch of fittings, choice of wastegate actuator etc.

The Hypergear is listed on site at $1150 for the bare turbo plus $180 for the wastegate, plus shipping.

All linked in my previous post.

So on my maths, so long as the Garrett doesn't cost more than $300 to ship it should come in as cheap as or cheaper than the HG's pre-shipping cost, and no, HG's $1330 isn't double $785 but its getting close. I don't need or want the 6 bolt flange I have now, because the long tube GTS-R manifold turns the turbo almost 90° and sites it lower than the non-R cast manifolds do; no matter what I will be having a V-band dump made.

My preference is for an internal gate turbo (either cast in or bolt on gate) with a V-band outlet.

Edited by floody

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...