Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

some goose tried to convince me to put a EFR turbo on it which would be awesome but jeezuuz i can almost get a 2jz half cut for the same price...

I was just trying to help mate. :P

7M with split T4 mani and a nice responsive 700hp turbo... Sounds good. :)

Do some research on 7MGTEs and head gaskets . They are I believe prone to not clamping the fire rings very well and people who raced them reckoned they could tell how many times they loaded it up by the number of times it moved and marked the head face .

I know of one fella that drag races a 7MGTE in an old once 2L 6 MK2 and he got it to survive using a rare HKS head gasket . I believe the issue is that the head casting isn't real rigid and doesn't like to seal in high power loads .

I think the 7M was the last and largest of that engine family and Toyota kept increasing the capacity by making the stroke longer and with the 7M the block taller .

Not trying to be a killjoy but doing a bit of research may save time and money in the long run .

Best of luck cheers A .

I reckon it will be fine just like t67's are fine on 3lt's

I found one result on toymods...made 313hp at the wheels...maybe start with that and if it all pans out and doesn't disintergrate the engine i can upgrade compressor to t67 later...

I was just trying to help mate. :P

7M with split T4 mani and a nice responsive 700hp turbo... Sounds good. :)

If you really wanted to help you could buy me a BW turbo :P ...

nah it does sound really really good mate and i honestly did consider it for about 5 minutes before reality slapped me in the face and said not on your budget kiddo... :rofl:

Do some research on 7MGTEs and head gaskets . They are I believe prone to not clamping the fire rings very well and people who raced them reckoned they could tell how many times they loaded it up by the number of times it moved and marked the head face .

I know of one fella that drag races a 7MGTE in an old once 2L 6 MK2 and he got it to survive using a rare HKS head gasket . I believe the issue is that the head casting isn't real rigid and doesn't like to seal in high power loads .

I think the 7M was the last and largest of that engine family and Toyota kept increasing the capacity by making the stroke longer and with the 7M the block taller .

Not trying to be a killjoy but doing a bit of research may save time and money in the long run .

Best of luck cheers A .

yeah thanks mate, i've done a lot of reading in the week since I aquired it , the headgasket is already blown so im working on that now. ;)

its something that can be fixed relatively easy with a metal gasket and stronger bolts torqued up almost 50% tighter than factory specs and it should be good as gold...and really, the motors can be had for 100$ (albeit with blown HGs :P) so no big deal if it spontaneously combusts...

Its a streetcar/family runabout, not a racecar..it wont be going near redline much :whistling:, I plan the powerband to drop off before then, its an auto as well so power from 3-6.5 with some meaty torque and nice early gear changes should make it hoot along nicely...

(*ok ed....this isnt going to happen, it seems they all make boost really late like 3.8-4k, im assuming its because they didn't have the benefit of VVT..so a target of 4-7k might be more realistic )

Have seen some promising results, even with stock turbos they are making 200kws+ ...I'm surprised more aren't done but I guess its just easier and more beneficial to get a JZ that doesn't blow HGs.......Changing a headgasket isn't really that hard its a weekends work and I'm reading the toyota replacements have improved a whole lot to the point they match the metal ones...

:cheers:

2JZGE+T is a very easy conversion and they can handle some punishment. The motor will set you back $400 odd and a simple G3 EWG will probably get you close to the response you want with an easy 240kw through the auto.

You can probably pick up the said NA 2J WITH an auto for a couple of hundred extra, and an ebay manifold will be sufficient for said daily/fun car. Make sure it has a tow ball. I am jelly.

Problem solved :)

Misconception ^ As they still exhibited the problem AFTER being repaired post factory. So your 7M does a HG, you change it for factory guise parts and it happens again.

Best 'easy' fix is MLS HG and studs, as noted by ARTZ.

In other news, the T25 flanged internal gate TD05-16G6 with 3" intake doesn't fit on a GTiR Pulsar. Hair pulling to ensue... but we are running the S14 on ~E85 at 18psi on the 17th August up on the dyno for a couple of power runs using whatever tune I was able to cobble together with boost creep last month to see how it all looks and get a final number. It is a dyno day, and we all are used to DIN correction so guarantee we'll at least be able to get graph with that but I'll request an SAE 2004 plot as well if it isn't too much of an issue for them. This is using a Dynapack with "large" pods and up to date software, so in the scheme of things an SAE 2004 corrected plot on that dyno should if anything be a "realistic" figure by SAU standards going from other threads.

7m head gasket probs were from the factory not torqing them up properly

exacery..and from what i've read its mostly the turbo motors had gasket issues.....way i see it with some forged slugs and a decent head gasket with some extra torque..it will handle anything you throw at it....sure its never going to be a JZ..but its a decent enough motor...I mean its not like its a complete dud like a sigma motor or something :whistling:

yeah Jas i have towball..why do you ask...i also have big fluffy lambswool seatcover made from real sheep :yes:

  • 2 weeks later...

In other news, the T25 flanged internal gate TD05-16G6 with 3" intake doesn't fit on a GTiR Pulsar. Hair pulling to ensue...

After some investigation and discussion with Eiji this was the chosen solution to this little problem - have to say, very impressed with the customer service and quality of these units so far!

post-11136-0-52847100-1375825789_thumb.jpg

Nah, haven't tried a billet version yet. The GTiR isn't going to be working the turbo very hard anyway so the extra flow isn't needed from it, even the Silvia with it's ~18psi isn't showing any signs of stressing the cast 16G6 wheel and despite that as it is it is probably making enough power to be making a stock bottom end SR20DET being used in a track car feel the burn, so more flow is really not needed at this stage.

Yep, as per the pic - internal blow off valve

There are billet 16G, 18G and 20G turbos which Kando are selling with that housing but he sent one for the cast 16G we have here so presumably the same profile (since he recommended and sent it) and therefore can be used on any of that range of wheel sizes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...