Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stock airbox could lose you 5-10kw nothing to significant, i am thinking of adding a pod out the bottom of it as well through the unused intercooler hole .But the power delivery I find is different, it comes on smoother so full boost doesn't hit quite so hard, its a little more transient.. Also Trent set the gate up to ease onto boost which smoothed it out some more.. Change this and stick a pod on and I have no doubt boost would hit like a hammer.. Depends which you prefer I guess and this is the way i wanted it

My timing belt has about 60k on it now I will do cam gears when I change it..might give the Brae manifold a go to then too..For now i just want to enjoy driving it for a while. :D

ahhhhhhh cheers for the heads up. Yours really is close to the manifold. I'm pretty sure I can get my gate up a fair bit closer to the manifold. if not whats your feeling on me replacing the 40mm pipe with say a 50mm pipe while still using a 40mm gate.

I would have thought that a 40mm gate was too small for the application. I have a 44mm one with a smaller turbo and engine and it's probably only just up to the task. I would be looking at least at a 44mm or 50/60mm plus a larger pipe feeding it as you suggested.

hey urtwhistle, FWIW my 6boost has the gate just inches off the collector and points maybe 2 or 3 degrees northward (i suspect they do that to promote flow going towards the gate).

yours is both long and looks like it doesnt point up at all, just straight down. id say work on that, but i dont feel the comp 40 will hold you back at this stage

can u fit the td05 in the stock turbo position?

and ive got one of those china split dump screamers (havnt used it yet) could i just run an internal gate td05 with this so i dont even need a wastegate?

ill re phrase that for you, the TD05 can bolt up to the stock manifold (with a small spacer) they are the same flange type (T3 open).

the existing dump will be useless regardless of what Kando option you decide on... you will need to make a new dump and if you want the best results you will also want to use an external gate.

if you are thinking you want to keep things as bolt on as possible, you should really be looking at the hypergear thread. he also gets excellent results from his turbo, and picking one of these over his is usually only an interest factor. you could get out of it a lot cheaper if you just stick to hypergear.

maybe consider sending your stock turbo to him and having it rebuilt to suit the exact power you want.

if you are thinking you want to keep things as bolt on as possible, you should really be looking at the hypergear thread. he also gets excellent results from his turbo, and picking one of these over his is usually only an interest factor. you could get out of it a lot cheaper if you just stick to hypergear.

maybe consider sending your stock turbo to him and having it rebuilt to suit the exact power you want.

I dont need it to stay stock, was just seeing what i can get away with. I don't mind going high mount if need be, ill just evaluate it when the time comes. cheers for all you're help.

:)

Nice work Artz! would be interesting to take a ride in each others cars one day.

My gate pipe comes off the 6boost and turns like 130-140 degrees, the pipe is 300-400mm long, gate sits next to the PS rack. Definitely not an ideal setup if you go off all the recommendations in here but it controls boost perfectly..

Nice work Artz! would be interesting to take a ride in each others cars one day.

My gate pipe comes off the 6boost and turns like 130-140 degrees, the pipe is 300-400mm long, gate sits next to the PS rack. Definitely not an ideal setup if you go off all the recommendations in here but it controls boost perfectly..

Who cares... Just tune your billet wheel :whistling:

Ok guys, for those that are interested I got my Kelway manifold today so here are a few pics.

He makes his own collector, he doesn't buy the pre made one.

Nice looking manifold. I wouldnt be fussed whether he makes his own collector or buys them, I just want someone to make one out of tube. Then we see how well they are fabricated and welded and it will be half the weight :)

Who cares... Just tune your billet wheel :whistling:

Nope

By tube I assume you mean the material like used in s/steel manifolds? If so I'd rather the weight of steam pipe any day for its strength and ability to hold in more heat in comparison.

Think hes more referring to the thickness??? steam pipe is forgiving cause if your fab work is second rate you can just hammer it with the die grinder a luxury you don't get when working with 1.6/2mm tube... what wall thickness are the greddy manifolds Roy?

anyone know why my idle keeps bouncing between 1500-2000 whenever i pull up at the lights :unsure:

it will settle after a bit (2-3 minutes maybe) but its got me stuffed, Trents been stuffing with it tune half the day but it still there, figure it must be something mechanical..AAC valve or a leak maybe..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...