Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah you can use the stock manifold on the smaller 20g, but he's right about the rest of it and the question was specifically asking for a 6 bolt option.

if you want a 6 bolt internal gate you will have to look at hypergear. even the 6 bolt 3076s have proven to suck compared to the full custom route.

so long story short if you want a good low hassle bolt on turbo you need to look at a hypergear.

anyone wanting something different or more custom for whatever reason can look into all the other options.

Has anyone used one of the Kinagawa actuators before? Specifically this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290784794658&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_1998wt_1414

And if so:

1) Are they any good?

2) I assume this would fit a GTX3071R (A/R .60 front cover)?

3) Is the top of the actuator rotatable so I can reposition the boost input to any direction I like?

Cheers! :cheers:

Justin

I have one of those at home but am yet to use it. I will update that in a few weeks if you can wait.

Its actually a 2 port actuator, just ask Eiji for a second nipple as the thread is there.

You can undo the top and rotate it, yes.

It's a good quality item from what I can see. No issues from me.

Hey guys, finally got my TD05-18G mounted. Just curious, both water inlet/outlets have an "upper" and "lower" ports for the banjo fittings. Are you able to mix and match which ones you bolt into? I.e use the upper for the inlet side of the water lines, and lower for the outlet? I didn't even think of this before bolting it all up.

P.S TD05-18G Ext Gate 8cm 100% won't bolt onto the stock manifold without atleast a 10cm spacer, and longer studs.

Hey guys, finally got my TD05-18G mounted. Just curious, both water inlet/outlets have an "upper" and "lower" ports for the banjo fittings. Are you able to mix and match which ones you bolt into? I.e use the upper for the inlet side of the water lines, and lower for the outlet? I didn't even think of this before bolting it all up.

P.S TD05-18G Ext Gate 8cm 100% won't bolt onto the stock manifold without atleast a 10cm spacer, and longer studs.

did u mount urs to the stock manifold?how long were the studs u used?

Yeah stock manifold, I wound out my studs 2-3 threads to give me enough thread for the nuts (8-9mm in thickness) to bolt down.

If I run into dramas later on then I will try replace them with ones about 10-15mm longer then standard/

u cannot use the water ports for in and out on the one side of the block.

That CHRA is a copy of an MHI core which has 4 water ports.

On some models they come from factory using 2 ports from the same side.

If Mitsubishi fit em up like that from stock, I doubt they would agree that you cannot do it.

Does the return on the top only apply if both are on the one side?

No, the return needs to be at the top if possible, otherwise the turbo may fill with steam or just hold air in the pocket. I guess it depends on the setup though and how hard it's driven.

Just think of what would happen at the track, the turbo is red hot and will be for a while as you pull back in. The water is barely flowing at idle and if you turn the engine off there is no flow. In this case the water will turn to steam and it needs to go somewhere. It needs to get to the radiator cap to be purged from the system.

The steam and hot water can create water flow if done right using convection to cool the turbo better.

Just think of what would happen at the track, the turbo is red hot and will be for a while as you pull back in. The water is barely flowing at idle and if you turn the engine off there is no flow. In this case the water will turn to steam and it needs to go somewhere.

I forget the name of it...but there is a word to describe the principle of water circulation after the engine is shut down. Hot water rises pulling cooler water up through the core so there is actually flow through the turbo after shutting down

I forget the name of it...but there is a word to describe the principle of water circulation after the engine is shut down. Hot water rises pulling cooler water up through the core so there is actually flow through the turbo after shutting down

i believe its convection

I've fitted my T67 up yesterday and i'm having trouble with the vbands being shithouse and not tightening enough. Mainly the one to hold the CHRA in, it doesnt do up enough to stop the core from moving, I can see this being a pain and having to keep moving it back.

Has anyone else got this problem???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...