Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they both are gonna have there advantages and dissadvantages. I mean the supra is gonna be better for extracting hp. The internals on the 2jz are quite good, r34 internals i would imagin should be good too but having spoken to some performance shops on whether they would prefer a supra or a gtr and the sup[ra came out on top.

In Simple English YES!!!!!

Ive driven heaps of supras at work, there big, by no means slow but very old school in side dont really handle tight stuff as well as skylines, there more for straight line speed and highway drag racing nowhere near as fun as a skyline for scooting round town or a mountain run.

Knore: The 350Z is still the light at the end of the tunnel :D I just get impulsive sometimes...so was looking at a Supra for something different.

The Z will probably be the next turbo challenge though.....even though you can't turbo a car that's N/A :D So I've been told

Dan

350Z has some ripped aftermarket kits out from HKS, Trust, etc .. bolt on and sideways away. Apparently the VQ35DE in them is one of Nissans strongest engines and responds very nicely to turbo'ing. For my "dream" car its either a R34 GTR or the 350z i think actually (with turbo kit of course)

If you want quick, the TT Supra is basically the quickest RWD japanese car stock out there.. interior is not pretty.. seats are nice, but otherwise blurk.. looks 80's.

Supras are quick, appently, after taking off the speed limiter they will get up to 290kmh stock... That is bloody fast. But how about a chaser? Like 96 model or something, they are different, and they arent short of a bit 13.7 or something stock. But yeah, skyline forum hey, prob better shoot me now for talking up the toyotas :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...