Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hai guise, its official, im sick of my old tien stiff coils and im getting some new ones, i like stiff suspension, just not as stiff as tiens, slightly softer would be ideal, i have been considoring the BC racing sets on justjap, what are peoples recommendations?

the car is a dailey, but i like the suspension hard, just not as hard as tiens, the car dosent see trackwork.

r33gtst

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348051-recomended-choice-for-coilovers/
Share on other sites

why not just go for a decent shock revalved to suit a decent spring, rather than go for the you beaut cheapo coilovers that have a million and one adjustability settings which no one except a proper suspension workshop with corner weighting facilities and good experience can get right...

i must ask what advantages do you actually find on a dedicated street driven, is the only reason you have them because you like a hard ride? or is it just so you can change the height? im know heaps of cars out there are daily cars with coilovers but i cant justify spending 2k (for GOOD) adjustables when the way you drive on the street will never require them. i have put the money i could have spent of adjustable coilovers into sway bars, strut bars, heaps of new bushes, giving me some mean camber and caster and rigidity. i would do the same again.

how ever each to their own

Edited by PaulosECR33

I have BC V1's that just went on my car, After a bit of adjustment and playing around Im happy with the height etc atm

There pretty good on the street, I wanted to keep the car relatively driveable so went with the V1's with 8kg front and 6kg rear spring rates

Ive only just got the car going again tonight but the limited driving ive done I like them, there not soft by any means but there much nicer then other skylines I've been in with coilovers, Depends what your after really

as I said there not soft.... but there not that hard either

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...