Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register

HKS 3037 tuning results


Recommended Posts

Just got my car dynoed after making adjustments that I thought were holding it back.

Mods, injectors, fuel pump, 256/264cams, trust plenum, hybrid cooler, power fc with boost control, 40mm ext gate, custom manifold, K&N pod with CAI and enclosed box and a HKS 1.6mm metal head gasket to drop CR to 8.6:1, adj HKS exh cam gear

plus driveline and sus mods but they dont really pertain here

the car made 321rwkw at 22psi, 1.2bar at 4000rpm. whilst the boost comes on a bit savage, it is easy to control with the throttle, so loss of traction is an option.

it has around 5psi at 3000rpm, and around 10 at 3500, then turbo starts pulling really hard.

after retarding by 4 deg on exhaust, I picked up around 15kw in the mid range with no loss in power anywhere else.

due to some fantastic tuning by Shaun of Boost Worx here in adeliade, off boost driveability is pretty awesome. The car just wants to go:)

comparing to the dyno of my car with stock turbo and 200rwkw, at 80kph I now have around 15kw less, at 100kph, they are even, then it just gets better for the new turbo

Big thanks too, to James of D1 Garage, for all his advice and help getting parts.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 125
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Steve what was the initial power with no extra tuning? Did the cooler pipe and exh make a difference.

The turbo looks the goods, does it still have some effiecincy left with any extra boost, could it make 350 with 1.8 bar or so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks guys

Robo's yep standard internals

DVS33T, I think there is a bit more to be had from the 3040, best to keep an eye on B-man's results, and you will be able to tell

B-man, yeah they are killer turbos. I am not sure if the way it comes on boost is a difference between the turbos, quite possibly, but also it may make a difference that I have stock internals, AF ratios are appropriately rich around there (mid 11s) and the timing is somewhat conservative - just to be on the safe side.

Clint32, not sure, I really didnt want to go any further, cos I am chicken, and dont want to rebuild. Didnt a top secret GTR make around 700kw with two of these? But then again, they would have had porting, matchported bits, bigger cams, 2.8L bottom end etc. Boost comes in alot earlier, and top end seems to be breathing better with the upgrades (compare the dyno on whatsisnames rebuild thread in the SA section). Driveability is greatly inproved - chalk and cheese. I am not sure how it will go at 1.8, but it did spike to 1.89 this arvo, and lit up the tyres at 120ks (using 2 way diff), in a controlled environment of course:)

Benm, it really isnt too bad on tyres, as long as you keep away from WOT, but you can regulate the boost very easily with the right foot

RNS11Z, it goes funny cos the biggest wastegate spring I could get my hands on is rated at 0.72bar, and I am running 1.6bar - the poor old solenoid has a bit of trouble keeping the boost nice and smooth up there as far as I can work out. It dips as the wastegate opens, then goes up and down as the boost fluctuates a little, around 1-2 lbs. I could probably spend more money getting another spring made, and redynoing, but I am quite happy the way it is. Besides, this gives me the option of turning the boost down for a lazy 225oddkw at 12lbs, for when the wife is driving:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work steve.

U think your head gasket is saving the life of your engine at that peak power level? Do u run it at 21psi all day everyday?

Also u can get 1 bar wastegate springs, like i have in my 45mm ext gate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Steve, great result, well over 500 bhp. A couple of questions..

What brand of wastegate?

Why did you stop the runs at 6,600 rpm?

Since the dyno was not in Shootout mode, what sort of day was it temp and humidity wise?

How is the PFC boost control kit handling the 1.5 bar?

What diameter exhaust?

What fuel?

What's next on your list?

If you could wind the clock back, would you do anything different?

I would certainly keep looking for a stronger wastegate spring, and I don't think it would need tuning if you just use it to smooth out the boost. If you use it to increase the total boost, that's a different story.

Top result regardless, just enjoy driving it. I hate seeing a good car sit in the garage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jeebus cripes that's impressive! I wouldn't give a rat's that it's 11:1 AFR either, with that kind of power it's better to be safe. You're at the level where you don't need to wring every last kw out of the engine, except maybe in the low-end. You just need to keep it smooth and safe enough for the stock internals to handle up top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the kind words everybody.

Simonster, dont worry, its well worth the wait, my turbo sat in a cupboard since feb last year, just getting where I want now

geraldjohn, sorry, I dont have a digi camera at the moment

Inasnt, I am pretty sure the head gasket is helping, a nice tune doesnt hurt either

sydneykid, its using a HKS 40mm standard wastegate with a 10psi spring. I would have gone a 1bar spring, but a guy picked one up in japan, and it was the heaviest available at the time. The spring that came out was 7lb. Might have to see if I can get a spring made to fit unfortuneately.

The runs didnt stop until 7000rpm. I think the diff may be slightly different to stock ratio, as when it went in (nismo 2way) there was a noticeable increase in torque off boost, purely seat of the pants though - can't think of any other way to explain the difference. I will have to check it out.

I am not sure of the humidity, temp was around 30deg at 1130am (in the dyno booth), the runs above were done around 1pm.

the boost controller seems to be fine - no noticable problems on the dyno. Spiked to 1.89bar in 3rd on the road, so I dropped the duty cycle (alot) and seems fine now. I think the top end of the curve will smooth out once it finishes learning how to hold the boost - I could be wrong, but it doenst have a noticeable effect.

Exhaust is 3" stainless ceramic coated and heat wrapped dump, wastegate integrates just before the bend where the dump angles toward the back of the car, so almost at the cat. From there it is a 90mm HKS super dragger.

fuel was just straight pump BP98

Not much more on the list engine wise, but I am still going to get rear camber arms, hicas lock kit, and R rated rubber, and I will try and get a 1bar spring.

Things I would have done differently, thats a bit hard. I think I would have used a different manifold, 3/2/1 design rather than tuned lenght - but that is one I will never know 100% for sure whether or not it will make much difference, as I am not about to go to all the added expense of buying the manifold and getting all the pipework remade, as I am very happy with the result I have now.

Other than that, maybe a light port/polish and match the manifold and plenum, thats about it really.

dont worry about the car not being driven, its my daily driver.

JimX, its actually quite good bottom end. Not much worse than stock turbo when I was putting down 200rwkw. this turbo still makes a few lbs boost at low (under 3000rpm) engine speeds with light throttle, the car feels like it wants to go all the time - not doughy at all bottom end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome stuff, some big power RB25's going to be at the SAU SA dyno day!!!

With yours, Grepins, Whatsisnames and Freegaggins - thats over 1000kw worth to see!!!

Cant wait

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha likewise, take my shit box for a spin and maybe you'll end up wanting a R33 shit box again lol...  
    • @Jasoncauser looks like a tight technical track, and definitely fun! Let's hope I make it to that day 😎  
    • The springs just lets the valve bleed off pressure/oil and it bypasses the feed gallery and heads back to where the pickup feed is On the LS the oil gets the the bearings...eventually  This vid explains the OEM pump well IRT the pressure release valve and how the bypass works The oil pressure light coming on intamitantly could just be a sticky valve, but, why pull something apart and not put something better in  I believe the low oil pressure light comes on somewhere between 5-10 psi Well will stick a gauge in after the installation to see what difference it makes at hot idle and higher RPM, and by high RPM I mean 6300 RPM.....LOL
    • My bottom end was rebuilt... so I think it's standard? Or refreshed.. standard? I didn't do it - I bought it with a lot of receipts but it has new bearings, new pump and was re-assembled. Apparently I have the standard flow, standard pressure pump. I did notice the oil pressure for a LS at idle is quite low, but not critically bad, I am happy that it's at about 28psi now (that my gauges work/don't leak). I would have probably specced the high pressure one, but I'll admit my ignorance after making my other post, I don't see how the pressure spring changes things. Given the pressure is a resistance to flow... high flow should also = high pressure, and your oil pump specifications should be dictated by how the engine is built (hence the sincere thankyou video man)
    • my first time on the track, just after getting the 32. tyres were 3yr old NT01's, rotors were cactus, pads were street pads. You can see the vibrations when I hit the brakes lol. After this is when I put new BDA rotors, Hi Temp Brake fluid and Intima type 2 pads. Wow what a difference
  • Create New...