Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haven't checked (battery) actually, didn't even occur to me. Will look into it. Thanks :thumbsup:

Didn't you read my first reply to your alarm prob thread?

I had to replace the battery in my M35 a couple of weeks ago ($130 I think). The one that came out of it wasn't the original one from manufacture, but probably the 2nd according to the date. So a new battery every 4-5 years isn't too bad considering all the electronics on board.

Yeah you mentioned it, but I'd had no other reason to suspect battery. No obvious battery problems.

I'll grab the battery tester and check it, but I can't see it being the cause.

It's just gone off AGAIN so I've locked it and disconnected the battery.

Do these things have a backup battery? Is it possible that could be the problem?

Most factory alarms don't have back up batteries check the bonnett switich very common unplug the switich and test it over a few days if thet does not fix it you said there was sensors on the dash unplug them and see how that goes for a few days

Fitted my new steering wheel this arvo. Looks nice!

Not as hard as I expected; was stressing about the Airbag a little.

Same factory wheel as came out (just better condition), right? How long did it take you & did you need special tools - like those star head security doo dads?

Same factory wheel as came out (just better condition), right? How long did it take you & did you need special tools - like those star head security doo dads?

Yeah, mine had fairly bad wear on the RHS through the paint down to raw leather.

About 20 mins; Disconnect both battery terminals with interior light on to discharge electrical system.

Pop the two small covers off the lower quadrants between steering spokes.

Undo the 2 T30 security screws and remove.

Gently pull airbag module free, and unhook cable from tab in centre of steering wheel boss.

On the back of the airbag, unclip the tabs on the side of the 90deg yellow plug. Pull tab away from plug slightly. This will allow the Airbag cable to come free.

Release plug/s for horn/wheel controls.

Put keys in ignition to release steering lock. This will stop you from damaging locking mechanism when you undo the mounting nut.

Ensure the steering wheel is correctly centred. THIS IS CRITICAL!

Use a 19mm socket and a breaker bar to undo steering wheel nut. It is tight; so brace the wheel with one hand (or get a friend to assist if you're puny) and turn bar anti-clockwise.

Wind the nut up until it's level with the top of the thread on the steering column. Do not completely remove. (This stops you being hit in the face by a flying steering wheel)

Centre steering wheel again.

Brace knees under steering wheel, pushing up hard; as if you're going to pop it off the taper. (You won't; it's effin' tight)

Use a drift, or a 6" socket extension bar and a decent sized hammer, to hit the steering shaft. Don't club it to death; you'll collapse the column, just give it a decent hit.

Repeat and you'll feel the wheel release from the taper. Only took a couple of firm hits for mine.

Completely remove 19mm nut.

Slide wheel off gently, and it's just the reverse to refit. Don't disturb the clock spring assy behind the wheel if you can avoid it.

If you're not confident with any of the above DO NOT EVEN ATTEMPT THIS JOB!!!!

Edited by Daleo

About 20 mins

You've done well to get all that done in 20 mins. LOL at leaving the nut patially on. I remember having to take the steering wheel of our ride-on as a kid. Took the nut all the way off, gave the wheel a big heave & it came off & smacked me in the head soooo hard, doh :wacko:.

20 mins is about right if you havent done it before.

i did mine in under 5. but it was the 3rd time in a row that i did it.

dont rush it, make sure you plug the airbag in properly!!

AFM died tonight on windsor road in the rain. lucky i had a friend to help me push it off the road.

didnt know it was the AFM. it just died and wouldnt start again. it would turn over fine (i did it a lot probably killing my brand new battery), stutter, then die.

big thanks to craig for phone diagnosis!

AFM died tonight on windsor road in the rain. lucky i had a friend to help me push it off the road.

These things seem like consumable parts! It almost feels like if your M35 dies, its your AFM. I dont think I see anything crop up even CLOSE to as frequently. Almost feel like buying a cheapie and throwing it in the cubby hole

These things seem like consumable parts! It almost feels like if your M35 dies, its your AFM. I dont think I see anything crop up even CLOSE to as frequently. Almost feel like buying a cheapie and throwing it in the cubby hole

I'm know it's been up before, but what's the P/N, what else is it compatible with, (if anything) and is there a low cost source? As I'm sure Nissan Aust want a bit for one...

Edited by Daleo

I'm know it's been up before, but what's the P/N, what else is it compatible with, (if anything) and is there a low cost source? As I'm sure Nissan Aust want a bit for one...

AFM Nissan part number is 22680-6N211

It should be the same as used in the 2001-2007 X-trail and the 2000-2005 Pulsar

From memory, I got one @ trade prices for sub $200 ex-melbourne. Best bet for a 'cheap' one would be YAJ but you'll never know the story behind one of those. Could last a week or a life time.

I'm know it's been up before, but what's the P/N, what else is it compatible with, (if anything) and is there a low cost source? As I'm sure Nissan Aust want a bit for one...

I bought a new one from Nissan....FYI there was an updated part number from the original! So if you buy a new one it should last longer!

You've done well to get all that done in 20 mins. LOL at leaving the nut patially on. I remember having to take the steering wheel of our ride-on as a kid. Took the nut all the way off, gave the wheel a big heave & it came off & smacked me in the head soooo hard, doh :wacko:.

Just spotted this; I reckon it took me longer to write down how I did it, and reset all my settings on the bloody stereo afterwards...

Lol @ steering wheel accident! I know of so many people who've done it, probably seems very obvious; post head injury...

Edited by Daleo

I bought a new one from Nissan....FYI there was an updated part number from the original! So if you buy a new one it should last longer!

Was the updated part number the one Dunc quoted? 22680-6N211?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...