Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haven't checked (battery) actually, didn't even occur to me. Will look into it. Thanks :thumbsup:

Didn't you read my first reply to your alarm prob thread?

I had to replace the battery in my M35 a couple of weeks ago ($130 I think). The one that came out of it wasn't the original one from manufacture, but probably the 2nd according to the date. So a new battery every 4-5 years isn't too bad considering all the electronics on board.

Yeah you mentioned it, but I'd had no other reason to suspect battery. No obvious battery problems.

I'll grab the battery tester and check it, but I can't see it being the cause.

It's just gone off AGAIN so I've locked it and disconnected the battery.

Do these things have a backup battery? Is it possible that could be the problem?

Most factory alarms don't have back up batteries check the bonnett switich very common unplug the switich and test it over a few days if thet does not fix it you said there was sensors on the dash unplug them and see how that goes for a few days

Fitted my new steering wheel this arvo. Looks nice!

Not as hard as I expected; was stressing about the Airbag a little.

Same factory wheel as came out (just better condition), right? How long did it take you & did you need special tools - like those star head security doo dads?

Same factory wheel as came out (just better condition), right? How long did it take you & did you need special tools - like those star head security doo dads?

Yeah, mine had fairly bad wear on the RHS through the paint down to raw leather.

About 20 mins; Disconnect both battery terminals with interior light on to discharge electrical system.

Pop the two small covers off the lower quadrants between steering spokes.

Undo the 2 T30 security screws and remove.

Gently pull airbag module free, and unhook cable from tab in centre of steering wheel boss.

On the back of the airbag, unclip the tabs on the side of the 90deg yellow plug. Pull tab away from plug slightly. This will allow the Airbag cable to come free.

Release plug/s for horn/wheel controls.

Put keys in ignition to release steering lock. This will stop you from damaging locking mechanism when you undo the mounting nut.

Ensure the steering wheel is correctly centred. THIS IS CRITICAL!

Use a 19mm socket and a breaker bar to undo steering wheel nut. It is tight; so brace the wheel with one hand (or get a friend to assist if you're puny) and turn bar anti-clockwise.

Wind the nut up until it's level with the top of the thread on the steering column. Do not completely remove. (This stops you being hit in the face by a flying steering wheel)

Centre steering wheel again.

Brace knees under steering wheel, pushing up hard; as if you're going to pop it off the taper. (You won't; it's effin' tight)

Use a drift, or a 6" socket extension bar and a decent sized hammer, to hit the steering shaft. Don't club it to death; you'll collapse the column, just give it a decent hit.

Repeat and you'll feel the wheel release from the taper. Only took a couple of firm hits for mine.

Completely remove 19mm nut.

Slide wheel off gently, and it's just the reverse to refit. Don't disturb the clock spring assy behind the wheel if you can avoid it.

If you're not confident with any of the above DO NOT EVEN ATTEMPT THIS JOB!!!!

Edited by Daleo

About 20 mins

You've done well to get all that done in 20 mins. LOL at leaving the nut patially on. I remember having to take the steering wheel of our ride-on as a kid. Took the nut all the way off, gave the wheel a big heave & it came off & smacked me in the head soooo hard, doh :wacko:.

20 mins is about right if you havent done it before.

i did mine in under 5. but it was the 3rd time in a row that i did it.

dont rush it, make sure you plug the airbag in properly!!

AFM died tonight on windsor road in the rain. lucky i had a friend to help me push it off the road.

didnt know it was the AFM. it just died and wouldnt start again. it would turn over fine (i did it a lot probably killing my brand new battery), stutter, then die.

big thanks to craig for phone diagnosis!

AFM died tonight on windsor road in the rain. lucky i had a friend to help me push it off the road.

These things seem like consumable parts! It almost feels like if your M35 dies, its your AFM. I dont think I see anything crop up even CLOSE to as frequently. Almost feel like buying a cheapie and throwing it in the cubby hole

These things seem like consumable parts! It almost feels like if your M35 dies, its your AFM. I dont think I see anything crop up even CLOSE to as frequently. Almost feel like buying a cheapie and throwing it in the cubby hole

I'm know it's been up before, but what's the P/N, what else is it compatible with, (if anything) and is there a low cost source? As I'm sure Nissan Aust want a bit for one...

Edited by Daleo

I'm know it's been up before, but what's the P/N, what else is it compatible with, (if anything) and is there a low cost source? As I'm sure Nissan Aust want a bit for one...

AFM Nissan part number is 22680-6N211

It should be the same as used in the 2001-2007 X-trail and the 2000-2005 Pulsar

From memory, I got one @ trade prices for sub $200 ex-melbourne. Best bet for a 'cheap' one would be YAJ but you'll never know the story behind one of those. Could last a week or a life time.

I'm know it's been up before, but what's the P/N, what else is it compatible with, (if anything) and is there a low cost source? As I'm sure Nissan Aust want a bit for one...

I bought a new one from Nissan....FYI there was an updated part number from the original! So if you buy a new one it should last longer!

You've done well to get all that done in 20 mins. LOL at leaving the nut patially on. I remember having to take the steering wheel of our ride-on as a kid. Took the nut all the way off, gave the wheel a big heave & it came off & smacked me in the head soooo hard, doh :wacko:.

Just spotted this; I reckon it took me longer to write down how I did it, and reset all my settings on the bloody stereo afterwards...

Lol @ steering wheel accident! I know of so many people who've done it, probably seems very obvious; post head injury...

Edited by Daleo

I bought a new one from Nissan....FYI there was an updated part number from the original! So if you buy a new one it should last longer!

Was the updated part number the one Dunc quoted? 22680-6N211?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...