Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rewired towbar plug so that I have no external socket for my trailer; so much neater.

Used flat cable so I can just put it out through the tailgate when I need it, and chuck it in the wheel well when not in use.

A bit boring, but still...

Might fit the new plastic mesh insert in my front bar tomorrow if I don't go riding.

Edited by Daleo

Humour me - by removing the factory radiator (losing the transmission cooler), and then installing a 11"x7-1/2"x3/4" transmission cooler, along with about 800mm of extra hose total, surely the system would need more fluid?

At the moment the dipstick doesn't show any dark fluid on it, which is exactly what is draining from the trans cooler hoses, but appears to have a heap of fluid on it - up to the little s bend in the dipstick.

Is this a problem with topping up from the dipstick?

I've read on the G35 forums that the dipstick is pretty hard to read, but if anyone has any advice I'd like to hear it.

My advice is the dipsticks on our cars are shit.

How much fluid did you put in? Probably only talking about 0.5-1L difference.

Where are you filling it from?

so epic fail with the 'wire cut' mod. must have cut the wrong wire. when i flicked the switch, it dropped a cylinder lol

anyway, installed a western digital live media player in the car. works fine, mounted up front in one of those waste-of-space pocket things. cut out a hole (nice and bodgey) and mounted it in there.

im getting a bit of noise in the picture so ill have to use a sheilded co-ax cable to the back of the car.

so epic fail with the 'wire cut' mod. must have cut the wrong wire. when i flicked the switch, it dropped a cylinder lol

anyway, installed a western digital live media player in the car. works fine, mounted up front in one of those waste-of-uuspace pocket things. cut out a hole (nice and bodgey) and mounted it in there.

im getting a bit of noise in the picture so ill have to use a sheilded co-ax cable to the back of the car.

Lol at cutting the wrong wire...

Are u running the stock firmware on the wdtv? Can it act as a DLNA server?

i upgraded the firmware last week when i got it. yes its WD firmware

i have a DLNA server already, but it will read the files off it. as for it BEING the server, no idea sorry.

so epic fail with the 'wire cut' mod. must have cut the wrong wire. when i flicked the switch, it dropped a cylinder lol

Bugger! pinch.gif

I must admit; it took me a while to drag it out of the middle of the harness, they don't want you going after it... Maybe you can market your mod as "Active Cylinder Deactivation" just like a VE Crumblydore...

Don't let it deter you; go again!

I thought the " Awesome" didn't need the snippage anyway?

the awesome becomes more awesomerer with the wire snip :)

i have a factory size toggle switch to go into the 3 spots down on the right, they are all full on my car, so is the 4th one below :(

the awesome becomes more awesomerer with the wire snip :)

i have a factory size toggle switch to go into the 3 spots down on the right, they are all full on my car, so is the 4th one below :(

I used a Stainless steel switch from Jaycar; http://www.jaycar.co...&SUBCATID=978#1

product_14049.jpg

Flush mount, you could put one of these anywhere as they are really low profile. I used one of the factory spots (cos I have no options :whistling: )

I was considering putting the switch on the parking brake but the switch I had wouldn't have worked. Plastic version of what Daleo posted

My plan was to put the switch on the actual pedal so when you pushed it down you would be pushing on the switch.

I ended up putting the switch in the compartment above the glove box

a toggle switch would be better IMO, that way you can leave it in normal mode for when the wifey/dodgey mate drives it.

plus then you dont have to press the brake while holding the button in :P

BTW, because that ECU input is a simple 12V, if you don't want to throw a switch (or push a button) AND press the brake pedal every now and then to keep the MIL light off, you could wire the switch with 12V to the ECU (ie. not from your brake pedal)

Yeah, I know, by the time you flick the switch / press the button you might as well press the brake as well....lol

Edited by Commsman

Well I got my braided lines and wireless reverse camera in the mail yesterday, just waiting on the rear rotors and suspension now.

Not sure if I'm even getting my suspension now. If I don't hear from Street to Track by tomorrow I'll be reporting to the bank to get my money back. Service is terrible, and still waiting for my shocks 3 weeks later. Now they guy won't even respond to emails. Major disappointment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean it's a bit late to say "This won't have any tangible effect and it is not worth spending more than about three seconds on it, please just enjoy the car" But I said it anyway. Does the pod actually get any airflow in that position behind a bumper like that?
    • Hey guys - apologies for digging this up. Has this website been shutdown or is the outage temporary?
    • So, went shopping at Just Jap for things that might work for the intake  After some trial fitting there I ended up with a 3" x 45° silicone bend, a 3" x 300mm alloy straight, and a humped joiner, some minor trimming will be required to shorten some of the stuff, but nothing that is beyond my "ham fisted" skills The guy at Just Jap was most helpful as we had all sorts of joiners,  bends and stuff out trial fitting  Laying it out above the stuff in there it seems everything will fit nicely, and looking at it, it is probably the way I should have been looking at doing it from the beginning, probably..... In the end it is a front bar off job anyway to remove the original stuff behind the front bar that is taking up the required realestate needed, so maybe a Thursday or Friday job And because I'm a hopeless consumer, I grabbed some new steel wheel nuts, the current ones are a spline drive type with a "security" socket, that somehow someone keeps misplacing, the new ones are a basic black steel 17mm hex socket In other news: I just did my "final" tax return, I am now officially a old retired veteran pensioner, and I'm milking the system for all it's worth,  life is good
    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
×
×
  • Create New...