Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You getting a cat in there somewhere?

I still have the stock dump pipe which has a cat in it.

Does the M35 chuck a CEL if you have a decat pipe? Need some sort of resistor or something?

There is no wiring to the front pipe cat, no code has been thrown yet though I do still have the stock dump with cat

Edited by Ross

Im unsure if the dump has a Cat sensor, never really had a good look in there due to lack of space.

Already having a cat back in place, installing the front pipe gave a noticeable mid range power increase. Exhaust noise level is slightly up on idle and power but nothing huge.

The most notable change to the noise is the idle now has a slight "throb" to it, much like many RB engined cars.

Aren't we all funny bastards tonight?! :nyaanyaa:

I'd think you'd be better off getting rid of the cat in the dump pipe, going with a nice new dump that actually flows, and putting a high flow cat in the Kakimoto pipe?

And no Jase, no cat sensor! :banana:

Nope, no sensors after the cat, just the narrowband right after the turbo. Now you need one of my dump pipes :whistling: although the Kakimoto has a restriction at the front flange you will need to enlarge...

I can do one for $450 in stainless with heat wrap, lower gaskets and bolts, o2 bung etc. You will need to source some shorter studs or shorten the stock ones.

Let me know, im making a few up this week. :thumbsup:

I can do one for $450 in stainless with heat wrap, lower gaskets and bolts, o2 bung etc. You will need to source some shorter studs or shorten the stock ones.

Let me know, im making a few up this week. :thumbsup:

lol a few?

Nope, no sensors after the cat, just the narrowband right after the turbo. Now you need one of my dump pipes :whistling: although the Kakimoto has a restriction at the front flange you will need to enlarge...

This is excellent news!

Anyone that is running the Neo Racing oil - are you using the Platinum 10w40 or the Gold? The service interval difference is big but I don't do that many km's and will change the oil well before 40,000kms anyway.

Anyone that is running the Neo Racing oil - are you using the Platinum 10w40 or the Gold? The service interval difference is big but I don't do that many km's and will change the oil well before 40,000kms anyway.

yeah, I have. Good stuff.

40,000 is a bit optimistic though. 12-15,000 or normal driving is plausible though.

Supposedly if you change the filter at least 3-4 times during the 40,000K's it should be alright.

Me, I think I'll just stick with a "full" synthetic for $55 and change every 7,500k's.....

Supposedly if you change the filter at least 3-4 times during the 40,000K's it should be alright.

Me, I think I'll just stick with a "full" synthetic for $55 and change every 7,500k's.....

But you'd be changing the filter without changing the oil... would you really want to do that?

I think I'd rather stick with my 5000k changes, depending on what the Motul looks like when I drop it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...