Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What's stock? From memory 3mm isn't it? And I didn't think Scotty modified that hole. Should I drill it out to 5mm?

Lol, no mate; don't drill the hole out.

Preload basically means that the arm will be too short to reach the pivot pin on the Wastegate arm. You'll need to pull against the actuator spring and stretch it into position. That extra stretch is preload.

Lol, no mate; don't drill the hole out.

Preload basically means that the arm will be too short to reach the pivot pin on the Wastegate arm. You'll need to pull against the actuator spring and stretch it into position. That extra stretch is preload.

Lol ok. Not sure how much preload I have, but it sounds like a stronger spring will give more preload?

I think sometimes when I weld the spring mounts on the actuator it may grow in length slightly, (don't get too excited Craig, dirty mind.) This can be counteracted by simply sliding a washer or two under each of the mounting points on the front housing. There should be 3-5mm of preload which means you should have to slide the shaft out of the actuator 5mm before it will clip on to the wastegate arm, it will take a bit of force as the springs are so strong. It sounds like yours needs more preload in any case Ryan.

I've replaced every vac line now I think. I can't see how that would be it.

There is a restrictor of some sort in one of those hoses (going to the wastegate?). Did you leave that in or remove it?

I think sometimes when I weld the spring mounts on the actuator it may grow in length slightly, (don't get too excited Craig, dirty mind.) This can be counteracted by simply sliding a washer or two under each of the mounting points on the front housing. There should be 3-5mm of preload which means you should have to slide the shaft out of the actuator 5mm before it will clip on to the wastegate arm, it will take a bit of force as the springs are so strong. It sounds like yours needs more preload in any case Ryan.

Wait... So you want my shaft to grow in length? :P

Cool, well washers sound like an easy solution. I'll give that a crack and see how I go. 1-2 washers should give me an extra 2-3mm preload.

There is a restrictor of some sort in one of those hoses (going to the wastegate?). Did you leave that in or remove it?

I was gonna suggest the same thing

Yeah there is a restrictor, but when I replaced the hoses I knew this was there and was cutting all the hoses apart to find them. Maybe I missed one, because I didn't find one.

If its in the hose from the boost solenoid to the wastegate, is it something I can go and get from Repco/Autobarn/SuperCheap and just replace?

The restrictor is in the stock bleed solenoid lines which I assume were removed to install the boost controller, either way the restrictor is only there to bleed the correct amount of boost off, if you remove it you will run almost unlimited boost, not have boost drop.

i dont this to mine yesterday. i steam blasted the top cover cause of the temp switch and other crap on it i didnt want to drop it in the tank over night. but the bottom cover got a tanking and ended up like this after the carbon build up.

Top cover
SA501699_zpscf12718e.jpg
Bottom
SA501700_zps44e14716.jpg

^^^ VQ25/30DD?

I washed mine today as I'm heading to the SAU NSW tech night tonight. I just love the way it looks after a wash, specifically standing back and looking at this, so I thought I'd share!

8677538210_96fcbd5eb9_c.jpg

^^^ VQ25/30DD?

I washed mine today as I'm heading to the SAU NSW tech night tonight. I just love the way it looks after a wash, specifically standing back and looking at this, so I thought I'd share!

8677538210_96fcbd5eb9_c.jpg

You have big snails in your front yard!!! WTF is with that??

finally ive been waiting to post this. :yes:

cars tuned, very happy with the results its been a long time( almost 3 months) with issue and constantly annoying the guys on here.. but first in WA :)

it is road tuned so no dyno results as yet guys but its a big improvement and im sitting at 19.5psi :)

id really like to thank Scotty, Craig, Ryan and of course all the others for imput for helping me through the tuning/ mehanical issues ive had. :cheers::cheers::cheers:

i will get dyno run for all you doubters eventually lol

  • Like 1

Had noble intentions today of fitting up the LSD rear end & the Scotty dump, front pipe & new Blitz Nür catback I got the other day...

Diff went in fine, but I was foiled utterly by the stock dump pipe... :(

I even called Scott to walk me through it, but couldn't for the life of me remove the O2 sensor with the tools I had - and as a result I couldn't get to the top centre nut to the dump pipe flange.

Fitted up the rest of the exhaust to the stock dump (will be forced to ask Craig to do it for me while I hang my head in shame) and I'm glad to report that its SUPER quiet. At idle, it's not much louder than the standard exhaust & probably just as loud as the induction roar on WOT.

Will be interesting to see if there's any change in noise levels once the factory dump/cat is swapped for the good one...

Edited by Mr 20Valve

Haha, its a ripper that bolt, and why I offset the o2 bung on my dump pipes. It will go together and come out again much easier once Craig fits it.

The dump makes the difference as it is the main exhaust restriction.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
    • Also wanted to say, my new spark plugs are blackened looks like it's very rich. I have splitfire coilpacks but stock coilpack loom and ignitor. I tried directly grounding the ignitor ground to body as well. 
×
×
  • Create New...