Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I finally followed in Spoolin12's footsteps and installed the Works-Bell Paddle Shifter Kit for the M35 from Tunersgroup :rolleyes: Big kudos to Scott for installing them as he really did a fantastic job! Also a big thanks to spoolin12 for providing a well detailed 'how-to' post. Between following the how-to guide, the included instructions, and Scott's expertise, we had them installed in ~2 hrs :cheers: The fiddly bits for the most part were trying to get that damn little white plug out that controls all the shifting, and the finite adjustments for the paddles that leave no room to swing an allen key!! but apart from that a great bit of kit. Haven't really taken any of my own pics yet, I will when I get a chance. Check out Chris's pics of his install.. pretty much looks exactly same as mine.

Initial impressions are that it does feel rock solid as the main body attaches with 6 screws that bolt up to a metal backing plate behind the steering column cover. The paddles bolt up to the micro-switches via 6 allen keys on either side allowing adjustment for angle, height, and protrusion. It also feels nicely finished and of good quality with the carbon fibre paddles, and although the raw carbon looks sexy, I reckon you could almost get away with stainless steel, or maybe strong plastic to keep costs down!!

As for the downsides, I don't have any really :P I do agree with Chris that it could be a bit higher, but I think it was initially designed for the 350Z's and adapted to suit the V35/M35's. Another small niggle is that sometimes my knuckles skim the paddles while cornering, etc. which I could probably negate with some tweaking.. Gets the thumbs up from me!! :thumbsup: Would highly recommend one of these kits for our cars!!

post-1882-0-50977100-1376536406_thumb.jpg

post-1882-0-87162200-1376536416_thumb.jpg

Finally got my engine rebuilt properly this time: went to go for run in tune, and both my rear shocks were leaking like sieves, so out went the bilsteins and in went some HSD coilovers. Have to say they are a massive improvement in ride and handling, with the added benefit of being able to take the extra 1/2 inch out of the front height, so the car now looks level as well. Was more than happy...

...until 350km into the run in when I started to have a major boost leak. Was in Byron bay at the time, so limped the car back to the Gold Coast and discovered that my spangly new HKS GR-SS rear turbo had let go due to oil starvation when the last engine popped...

In for a penny, in for a pound, so I but the billet and bought a brand new pair of 2860 -5 turbos, and finished the run in.

Off to the dyno for the power tune, but we ran out of fuel pump capacity, peaking at a very lean 458awhp, running like a dog off throttle due to externally venting bovs.

Just picked it up today with a bigger intank 450lph walbro fuel pump and recirculating bov.

Hoping to go in next week for the final tune, but not looking for too much more power: it already scares the hell out of me detuned to 430awhp!

skyguy3804, on 15 Aug 2013 - 13:04, said:

Well I finally followed in Spoolin12's footsteps and installed the Works-Bell Paddle Shifter Kit for the M35 from Tunersgroup :rolleyes: Big kudos to Scott for installing them as he really did a fantastic job! Also a big thanks to spoolin12 for providing a well detailed 'how-to' post. Between following the how-to guide, the included instructions, and Scott's expertise, we had them installed in ~2 hrs :cheers: The fiddly bits for the most part were trying to get that damn little white plug out that controls all the shifting, and the finite adjustments for the paddles that leave no room to swing an allen key!! but apart from that a great bit of kit. Haven't really taken any of my own pics yet, I will when I get a chance. Check out Chris's pics of his install.. pretty much looks exactly same as mine.

Initial impressions are that it does feel rock solid as the main body attaches with 6 screws that bolt up to a metal backing plate behind the steering column cover. The paddles bolt up to the micro-switches via 6 allen keys on either side allowing adjustment for angle, height, and protrusion. It also feels nicely finished and of good quality with the carbon fibre paddles, and although the raw carbon looks sexy, I reckon you could almost get away with stainless steel, or maybe strong plastic to keep costs down!!

As for the downsides, I don't have any really :P I do agree with Chris that it could be a bit higher, but I think it was initially designed for the 350Z's and adapted to suit the V35/M35's. Another small niggle is that sometimes my knuckles skim the paddles while cornering, etc. which I could probably negate with some tweaking.. Gets the thumbs up from me!! :thumbsup: Would highly recommend one of these kits for our cars!!

hmmmmm.....mine arrives tomorrow I hope! :cheers:

I hear Scott was to scared to drive it!!!!

Edited by Jetwreck

how are the gear changes? Compared to tiptrpnic

I think they feel a bit better/quicker than selecting via tiptronic.. I have however found the rev limiter a few times now as I just haven't flicked the paddle firm enough :wub:

It's a different way of driving....it's going to take me a while as your hands don't have to leave the wheel.

Rev limiter and slow changes are still there.

Used paddles once

Thought it was rubbish and havnt used again, changes too slow, probably need a shift kit to fix it

But don't know if that will speed the change from when the button is pushed and when the gears actually start changing though

Anyone done it?

Change it a 5k hopefully it changes by 9k lol

Change at 4.5rpm to 5rpm and I have a perfect limiter bounce with a small flame/POP.

I'm pretty sure it would be easier if I still had the standard 3.0's front and rear diff ratio's.

The best thing is being able to shift down without taking your hand off the wheel and also being able to short shift to bring the tank back in line when sliding!

Edited by Jetwreck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...