Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone keen for a meetup sometime just to race/drift RC cars around? I'm pretty keen to drag someone with my electric RC and tandem drift the nitro hahaha

I'd be keen for a race, happy to bust out my 1:18th brushless 4wd on road running 3s :)

Yeah I'd be super keen to get together for a fun race / drag or something. I have NO experience racing, (I always drive around by myself.... but am super keen to learn) My charger is still on Kangaroo Island and I'm not going to be able to get to it until after Xmas... Does anybody have dates in mind ?

Regards,

Jeff

  • 2 weeks later...

I got a HB lightning stadium pro 2 nitro truggy if anyone I keen to get it out I my shed, has an axial .28rr engine, bump starter, chargers for glow ignitor, hump pack and bump starter. Few spare wheels...2.8ghz controller. Can post pics.

  • 2 weeks later...

i know this probably inst the right place but i have a few cars and bits for sale

1st is a losi lst2 with a range of spares comes with all parts minus control and receiver

post-48089-0-46544700-1325210835_thumb.jpg

2nd is a hobao dominator with a nosram .28 in it comes with all parts minus control and receiver

post-48089-0-64757300-1325210982_thumb.jpg

3rd is a jr props xs3 synth radio with receivers to run both trucks or can be used in a already owned car

4th is a hyper 7 pbs roller probably only good for parts comes with a .21 engine i bought off of ebay ever used buggy used to be good

post-48089-0-26148500-1325211322_thumb.jpg

gear has not been used for around 1 year open to reasonable offers did not want to put in fs thread as i thought this was a more directed thread sorry if i thought wrong :worship:

  • 3 weeks later...

i have a HPI sprint 2 DRIFT, great car,

have a DR30 which is my bash shell and also a R35 GTR shell, buying a c34 stagea shell shortly.

if anyone here has a rc electric drift car apply to join our facebook page, we normally have montly meet ups down at hobby habbit!

http://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/185668084845913/

  • 5 years later...

This post still open? Been in and out of the hobby for a while now, I currently have a 1:10 HSP On-road/Drifter on 2s with upgraded Motor+ESC and suspension towers and a 1:8 Hyper 8.5 on 4s. I'm not particularly interested in joining a club, just want to meet like minded RC enthusiasts for an occasional bash, drift or race. I'm in Adelaide, Semaphore. Let me know and well meet up.

WP_20170618_14_50_37_Pro.jpg

WP_20170613_23_13_38_Pro.jpg

  • 6 months later...

Only just saw this, me and some mates run a rc drift event most Friday nights from 7-11.30pm

Most of the organising is done via the Facebook page

Look up RC Drift Matsuri at Jubilee Community Centre on Facebook for upcoming events

  • 2 months later...

I've got a few for the boys. I went for LIPO's.

Only cheap FTX carnages as they are always crashing them. Upgraded 3S batteries, gearing, cooling and wheelie bars.

The tyres look like a nitro drag car while pulling a burnout. Good fun kids/I love them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...