Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

having a look over the stagea yesterday and i think there is a thick (~5-10mm) spacer on the lower half of the plenum (plenum to block)

has anyone seen this before? (where the boxed part is)

post-51118-0-70057500-1294466456_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349603-aftermarket-inlet-spacer/
Share on other sites

hey guys

having a look over the stagea yesterday and i think there is a thick (~5-10mm) spacer on the lower half of the plenum (plenum to block)

has anyone seen this before? (where the boxed part is)

The Inlet manifold gasket?

if it's about 10mm thick then it is probably one of those plastic spacers people put on in the hope of gaining extra power from dropping the amount of heat transfer to the plenum. makes sweet fuck all difference though

To plenum temps or power?

My plenum is cold when driving now, dropped the intake temps by 20-30 degrees.

The way I understand it, the air intake sensor (exact same sensor as the temp probe in the radiator) that is on intake manifold (well GTR ones anyway) takes the physical temperature of the plenum where it's attached to, not the actual temp of the air.. the temperature of the plenum can be much higher than the temp of the air because of heat transfer from the head.

The way I understand it, the air intake sensor (exact same sensor as the temp probe in the radiator) that is on intake manifold (well GTR ones anyway) takes the physical temperature of the plenum where it's attached to, not the actual temp of the air.. the temperature of the plenum can be much higher than the temp of the air because of heat transfer from the head.

so that must also mean the radiator temp probe you're talking about takes the temp of the radiator and not the water. that doesnt make sense to me.

a colder plenum will make minimal difference. the air is traveling at super speeds when entering the combustion chamber, it will still be entering at the temperature of the post-intercooled-air at higher rpm where these things would matter IMO.

so that must also mean the radiator temp probe you're talking about takes the temp of the radiator and not the water. that doesnt make sense to me.

a colder plenum will make minimal difference. the air is traveling at super speeds when entering the combustion chamber, it will still be entering at the temperature of the post-intercooled-air at higher rpm where these things would matter IMO.

that is correct. the air is travelling at such a speed that it absorbs very little heat from the piping it is running through. this is also why it is of no real concern having the cooler pipe running along the top of the radiator with a fmic.

as for the temp prob, it may well take some reading from the plenum rather than the air but i really don't know. either way, i'm not sure if the rb25 has an IAT sensor. pretty sure that the skylines at least, don't.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...