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Good afternoon all,

I have been wondering since i have upgraded my turbo ( still yet to get a tune ) my intake pipe into the turbo has been sucking shut when turbo kicks in. I spoke to Tao(hypergear) in reguard to this and he recommended that i install my filter directly on front of the turbo. Now this poses the questions: Do i move my afm and crank case breather and plumback into the intercooler pipe? any help or thoughts would be appreciated

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get a pipe made, make sure it has a bend in it then put the afm on the end of that (with a 4"-3" reducer) then whatever filter you want on the afm. the longer the pipe is between the afm and turbo and the better the bend the less likely you are to suffer from reversion

get a pipe made, make sure it has a bend in it then put the afm on the end of that (with a 4"-3" reducer) then whatever filter you want on the afm. the longer the pipe is between the afm and turbo and the better the bend the less likely you are to suffer from reversion

bingo!

Only reason you would put the filter straight on the turbo would be if you moved the afm to the intake piping. I chose not to do that from Trents advice and my goal for the engine bay to look standard.

You surely would not connect the afm too close to the turbo.

This is the metal intake pipe I made up (excuse the poor bend on the bov return haha)

post-29432-0-68992300-1294973685_thumb.jpg

Hey there,

this link should help you out...Linky

Its a 5 minute job and will save all the hassle of moving stuff around

Please stop suggesting this, this does not work over 250rwkw. For the standard turbo thats fine, but anything bigger than that I would strongly recommend a metal intake.

By pod straight of the turbo I meant:

Relocate AFM to cooler piping,

Relocate BOV to cooler piping

Have a 4inch metal front pipe with pod straight off the turbo. I would recommend a 4inch intake pipe for the ATR43G3.

The Rev210 mods doesn't work, Don't try it. I've done back to back dyno test with it, detailed results are in my highflowing thread.

By pod straight of the turbo I meant:

Relocate AFM to cooler piping,

Relocate BOV to cooler piping

Have a 4inch metal front pipe with pod straight off the turbo. I would recommend a 4inch intake pipe for the ATR43G3.

The Rev210 mods doesn't work, Don't try it. I've done back to back dyno test with it, detailed results are in my highflowing thread.

Do you think u could make me up a pipe for this? There really is no-one in this area that can do it ( our exhaust shop cannot bend 4 inch ) etc. I would of rathered retaining stock plumb back and crank breather so car remains legal in QLD If any one is interested i will pay $$$

Its just a 45 degrees silicon bend hose and a 4inch 20cm long metal pipe with bov return and a pod filter. I'm current overseas, Go to this place called Motul Weld at point cook, they can make this pipe for you cheaply.

Yes it is 4 inch inlet, The car was making boost and than dropping to zero. I than removed air intake and car was fine. I bought the turbo as it said Direct bolt on fitment ...after i got it i found out that intake dont bolt on it has to be modded but that was me not fully checking it out also my water lines could not bolt on i had to modify them as well i suppose that i was rather oblivious to what had to be done but least its done now and i want it to be set up the best

what size is the compressor snout? is it even 4inch?

the restriction would be after the compressor wheel, not before it ?

This understanding is very wrong.

Air been pumped out of the compressor wheel is compressed. The air been sucked in is not.

Small intake pipe and restrictive air filter system will limit the amount of air that can be sucked in. That makes the comp pressor wheel harder to turn:

The most noticeable causes from that would be lose in power, boost level and response.

On the hot side, slower shaft speed chocks the engine up on top, since the turbine wheel can not spin fast enough the blades of the turbine wheel becomes a major exhaust restriction. That increases EGT, causing detonations.

On a simple term, you can suck in a lung full of air lot easier and faster through a bigger strew.

This has been tested back n forward 3 times with back to back dynosheet in our thread.

I've deliberately machined the inlet of the comp housing into 4inch so people have to to get rid some of the OEM parts that is not suitable for high performance applications.

In term of fittment. The turbo with oil line supplied will bolton to stock every thing, How ever It needs an 2.5 inch 90 degrees elbow and a metal induction pipe to complete. We can supply those bits to complete the installation. Details instructions with photos are also on our thread.

Do you think u could make me up a pipe for this? There really is no-one in this area that can do it ( our exhaust shop cannot bend 4 inch ) etc. I would of rathered retaining stock plumb back and crank breather so car remains legal in QLD If any one is interested i will pay $$$

That intake pipe above is simply a 90 degree bend from an exhaust shop with some fittings welded in to the pipe.

If you want to retain the afm in the intake like standard you probably shouldnt have chose the 4" intake on the turbo. You will have to reduce the pipe down to 3" to bolt up to the afm anyway. This pipe will also be a lot harder to make, the 3" bolts up to the afm and pod easily but I cant see a lot of extra room for a 4"->3" reducer etc.

people have got to understand the hypergear turbos are not direct bolt on items

It depends on which Hypergear turbo you choose. I have the standard nissan compressor cover on my hypergear turbo and it bolted straight back up to the standard intake pipe. Same as a GCG hiflow turbo. Although any of these turbos are not performing well with a standard intake and respond well to a larger metal intake pipe.

But of course if you choose any aftermarket turbo they will not bolt straight up. Hypergear turbos can be everything from a simple hiflow to a completely new turbo altogether, so it depends on what your talking about.

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