Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just bought a skyline r33 gtst a few days ago

want to know why its overheating

it started overheating today because the previous guy put techaloy 60 in, i filled it up with 90, the reservoir was at full mark, and when it overheated it went about 3-4cm above the full mark and the radiator had barely any coolant in it, n the coolant in the reservoir was boiling for about 10-15 mins...

so i did a coolant flush, put techaloy performance 100 in

but after about 30-45min drive it started overheating, the coolant in the reservoir was almost empty (was up to the full line before) but the radiator still had the right amount of coolant in it...

i cant figure out the problem, the cap seems alright, the thermo was opening because it was able to bleed the coolant

p.s. when it overheats it only ever got to the white line iust before it hit the hot mark (the white line is bout 5mm before the hot line), so it never hit hot

anyone got any ideas? much appreciated

Edited by caliibre
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351043-r33-gtst-overheating/
Share on other sites

just bought a skyline r33 gtst a few days ago

want to know why its overheating

it started overheating today because the previous guy put techaloy 60 in, i filled it up with 90, the reservoir was at full mark, and when it overheated it went about 3-4cm above the full mark and the radiator had barely any coolant in it, n the coolant in the reservoir was boiling for about 10-15 mins...

so i did a coolant flush, put techaloy performance 100 in

but after about 30-45min drive it started overheating, the coolant in the reservoir was almost empty (was up to the full line before) but the radiator still had the right amount of coolant in it...

i cant figure out the problem, the cap seems alright, the thermo was opening because it was able to bleed the coolant

p.s. when it overheats it only ever got to the white line iust before it hit the hot mark (the white line is bout 5mm before the hot line), so it never hit hot

anyone got any ideas? much appreciated

Im guessing you have checked for leaks?

Doesnt need a very big leak to start overheating, and if your loosing coolant to then that seems like the obvious cause

thing about the factory water temp gauge is as soon as it moves above where the operating temperature (which is just under half way) it means your water temp has hit 105 degrees. if its hit that a few times you've probably blown your head gasket.

a few ways to check if you've done this is to check for the following;

- milky substance in your radiator or oil cap (if its cracked through an oil galley)

- constant bubbles in your coolant (if its cracked through your combustion chamber)

- white smoke out of your exhaust (water going through your combustion chamber)

are you getting any of these?

yeah i thought i might have blown my head gasket but

-dont have any milky substance in radiator or oil cap (though when i pumped the old coolant out of the reservoir towards the end it looked clear almost like water, kinda milky)

-dont see anything wrong with the bubbling side of coolant

-not sure about white smoke coming from exhaust

new radiator cap ay?

thing about the factory water temp gauge is as soon as it moves above where the operating temperature (which is just under half way) it means your water temp has hit 105 degrees. if its hit that a few times you've probably blown your head gasket.

a few ways to check if you've done this is to check for the following;

- milky substance in your radiator or oil cap (if its cracked through an oil galley)

- constant bubbles in your coolant (if its cracked through your combustion chamber)

- white smoke out of your exhaust (water going through your combustion chamber)

are you getting any of these?

The first tip happened to my R33 GTR just last week and i have done the gasket maybe a cracked head. Mine has oil getting into the coolant . I noticed mine getting when it was to late blew a big hole in radiator hose. Hope yours hasn't done the same thing i am up for big $$$ to fix it.

possibly try a new cap and see if that makes a difference (make sure you get the same pressure cap).

possible causes of overheating are:

dodgy cap

dodgy thermostat

leak in the system (including blown head gasket)

dodgy water pump

blocked radiator (which a flush will do nothing to help)

shagged clutch fan (although driving at highway speed it won't overheat)

had mine up to 119 on powerfc readout twice after the water pump leaked out the telltale hole and it was only half full. got it to a mates both times and fed water into it real slow. did another 50000km before rebuild due to damaged rings but head was ok. maybe i was just lucky but mine was well into the red so yours may be fine too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
×
×
  • Create New...