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just wondering how long this motor should last kms etc before i should look at doing something ?? i just bought the car and was wondering thats all cause i dont want to break anything some help would be much appreciated

thanks.

ENGINE: *CP pistons probs more but cant think !!

*Eagle rods

*N1 oil pump

*Tomei sump baffles

*Tomei headgasket

*Tomei oil feed restrictors

*custom oil drian from the rear of the head to the sump

*balanced crank

*acl race bearings throughout

*N1 water pump

*Apexi cams ( not sure what lift)

*Aftermarket vavle springs

*Hks cam gears

*Hks timing belt

*Bigger Fuel pump

*700cc sard injectors

*adjustable fuel reg

*Nisstune ECU

*twin Garrett 2860-5s

*Huge intercooler

*Alloy radiator

*Front sway bar

*middle sway bar ( in photo of interior)

*rear sway bar

*Bilstein coilovers

*torque split controller( not working at the moment will try to get fixed before sale)

*drilled rotors

*gauges, oil pressure, boost

*Alpine headunit

*Alpine 6x9s

*oil filter relocation kit

Edited by danny14
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351052-32-gtr-forged-engine/
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If it was built right it should last as long as your usage implies.

If you pump your -5s to max capacity and run it on the knifes edge on the track every day of its life, you will get about as long a life span as you would any other race motor before it needs rebuild (not very long at all). Yet if you were to daily it and take exceptional care of it I anticipate it would possibly last as long as a factory built motor.

I would probably change that N1 oil pump to a Nitto or JUN item though, that is the weakest link at present.

The only way to know would be to strip it down which kind of defeats the purpose.

Who knows it could have been slapped together on the grass in someone's back yard with all the tolerances wrong and it might last a week, it could have had everything done perfectly at a shop and then run with no oil, or everything could be fine and it could last 100,000kms?

the speaker part was not ment to go in i just pasted and copied page lol...

the oil pump is it really a problem i drive it maybee 3 times a week and i dont thrash it everywhere i go. everything feels tight

it currently makes 314 kw but has made 450 kw with the old ecu that was pfc it now has a nistune because of defect

well.. if its lasted 3 years and is still running sweet today, not burning oil etc, im sure its been built some sort of standard - but as said earlier, it could go bang 2moro or could go for another 5 years - too many variables!

ok apparantly it didnt... saysss im just goin off what the original owner that built it from ice performance told me................................ thats all im not making up shitttttt if thats what u think

do u have any proof that the engine is even built? or did he just hand u receipts from when his friends, friends built a motor.

common misconception is that building a motor gives u fully awesome big power, when all it does is make the engine components stronger.

sure u can make 650rwhp and the motor will last 12months or you can run the same motor at 300rwhp and last 10years

  • Nope 1

do u have any proof that the engine is even built? or did he just hand u receipts from when his friends, friends built a motor.

I'd be thinking a similar thing.

If it was from ICE down here in Vic, I'd be even more worried... There were plenty of no-so favourable experiences that myself and several friends went through before they shut doors.

ok apparantly it didnt... saysss im just goin off what the original owner that built it from ice performance told me................................ thats all im not making up shitttttt if thats what u think

Defensive much? Perhaps those posters are thinking that whoever told you it made 450 is a liar, and therefore you cannot trust anything else this person has said to you.

Also

*middle sway bar ( in photo of interior) <= WTF??!!

*torque split controller( not working at the moment will try to get fixed before sale) <= if the controller doesnt work it will be taily but still put torque to the front wheels. If it doesnt, it could be expensive to fix.

*drilled rotors <= likely to crack with track use

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