Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just wondering how long this motor should last kms etc before i should look at doing something ?? i just bought the car and was wondering thats all cause i dont want to break anything some help would be much appreciated

thanks.

ENGINE: *CP pistons probs more but cant think !!

*Eagle rods

*N1 oil pump

*Tomei sump baffles

*Tomei headgasket

*Tomei oil feed restrictors

*custom oil drian from the rear of the head to the sump

*balanced crank

*acl race bearings throughout

*N1 water pump

*Apexi cams ( not sure what lift)

*Aftermarket vavle springs

*Hks cam gears

*Hks timing belt

*Bigger Fuel pump

*700cc sard injectors

*adjustable fuel reg

*Nisstune ECU

*twin Garrett 2860-5s

*Huge intercooler

*Alloy radiator

*Front sway bar

*middle sway bar ( in photo of interior)

*rear sway bar

*Bilstein coilovers

*torque split controller( not working at the moment will try to get fixed before sale)

*drilled rotors

*gauges, oil pressure, boost

*Alpine headunit

*Alpine 6x9s

*oil filter relocation kit

Edited by danny14
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351052-32-gtr-forged-engine/
Share on other sites

If it was built right it should last as long as your usage implies.

If you pump your -5s to max capacity and run it on the knifes edge on the track every day of its life, you will get about as long a life span as you would any other race motor before it needs rebuild (not very long at all). Yet if you were to daily it and take exceptional care of it I anticipate it would possibly last as long as a factory built motor.

I would probably change that N1 oil pump to a Nitto or JUN item though, that is the weakest link at present.

The only way to know would be to strip it down which kind of defeats the purpose.

Who knows it could have been slapped together on the grass in someone's back yard with all the tolerances wrong and it might last a week, it could have had everything done perfectly at a shop and then run with no oil, or everything could be fine and it could last 100,000kms?

the speaker part was not ment to go in i just pasted and copied page lol...

the oil pump is it really a problem i drive it maybee 3 times a week and i dont thrash it everywhere i go. everything feels tight

it currently makes 314 kw but has made 450 kw with the old ecu that was pfc it now has a nistune because of defect

well.. if its lasted 3 years and is still running sweet today, not burning oil etc, im sure its been built some sort of standard - but as said earlier, it could go bang 2moro or could go for another 5 years - too many variables!

ok apparantly it didnt... saysss im just goin off what the original owner that built it from ice performance told me................................ thats all im not making up shitttttt if thats what u think

do u have any proof that the engine is even built? or did he just hand u receipts from when his friends, friends built a motor.

common misconception is that building a motor gives u fully awesome big power, when all it does is make the engine components stronger.

sure u can make 650rwhp and the motor will last 12months or you can run the same motor at 300rwhp and last 10years

  • Nope 1

do u have any proof that the engine is even built? or did he just hand u receipts from when his friends, friends built a motor.

I'd be thinking a similar thing.

If it was from ICE down here in Vic, I'd be even more worried... There were plenty of no-so favourable experiences that myself and several friends went through before they shut doors.

ok apparantly it didnt... saysss im just goin off what the original owner that built it from ice performance told me................................ thats all im not making up shitttttt if thats what u think

Defensive much? Perhaps those posters are thinking that whoever told you it made 450 is a liar, and therefore you cannot trust anything else this person has said to you.

Also

*middle sway bar ( in photo of interior) <= WTF??!!

*torque split controller( not working at the moment will try to get fixed before sale) <= if the controller doesnt work it will be taily but still put torque to the front wheels. If it doesnt, it could be expensive to fix.

*drilled rotors <= likely to crack with track use

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...