Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So you what do you think of this...

SAU Member: Kris..

rb20DET

HKS 25/35 turbo rebuilt by RotaMaster

JJR 38mm external watsgate

Supertech forged pistons 20thou oversized

ARP rod bolts

ARP head studs

Cometic metal head gasket

Cometic gasket kit

nissan oil pump

nissan water pump

nissan idler pully

nissan tensioner pulley

NDC bearing kit

HKS camshafts, 264/8.5mm

HKS cam gears

Gates timing belt

Tridon thermostat

crank was grub screwed, balanced and ground

balanced pistons

balanced and resized rods

block was decked, bored and honed

resurfaced head

valve grind

new valve stem seals

exhaust guides and ports cleaned up a bit

braided lines

GReddy returnflo front mount intercooler kit

Gkteck dump and front pipe

Blitz cat back

Splitfire coilpacks

JJR alloy radiator

z32 AFM

GTR injectors and resistor pack

Status remaped ECU

Walbro fuel pump

JJR oil cooler relocation kit

gutted cat

238rwkw @ 19psi

Me

Full RB20DET rebuild with upgraded rods and bearings (nothing forged as far as I know)

FMIC

Full turbo back exhaust with performance cat

Greddy Dump Pipe

z32 AFM

Cold air intake

Splitfire coilpacks

550cc injectors

Stock ECu remap

Garrett GT2871R

Bosch 044

Exedy Super HD Clutch

230.3rwkw @ 16psi Dyno Sheet R32 GTS-T.pdf

So the guy above threw 3 x as many mods into his 32 as me and only has 8 more rwkw and is running 3 psi more boost.

Can anyone explain this???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351213-what-the/
Share on other sites

Oh dude for crying out loud. Some reading before posting helps!

Every setup is different

Every dyno is different

Every tune is different

Every persons location is different (and this climate can be a factor in tunes)

You want any more possibilities?

Dyno results are a good guide, but to split hairs over 8rwkw is pointless.

If the dyno he is on, reads 10rwkw low, and yours reads 10rwkw high, then all of a sudden its 28rwkw.

You'll NEVER KNOW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351213-what-the/#findComment-5635828
Share on other sites

Well that turbo would be prety close to being maxed out so its no matter what you do youll be struggling to go over with a 2535. At the end of the day you can have a full built motor with everthing you could possibly want on it and what would happen if you put a stock turbo? You wont make power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351213-what-the/#findComment-5635838
Share on other sites

So the guy above threw 3 x as many mods into his 32 as me and only has 8 more rwkw and is running 3 psi more boost.

Can anyone explain this???

Different turbos, different tuner, different dyno.. unsure but his could make alot more power if the boost is wound up more.

also he seems to have done it the right way to make it all last and you seem to have the best turbo for your power range..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351213-what-the/#findComment-5635839
Share on other sites

Oh dude for crying out loud. Some reading before posting helps!

Every setup is different

Every dyno is different

Every tune is different

Every persons location is different (and this climate can be a factor in tunes)

You want any more possibilities?

Dyno results are a good guide, but to split hairs over 8rwkw is pointless.

If the dyno he is on, reads 10rwkw low, and yours reads 10rwkw high, then all of a sudden its 28rwkw.

You'll NEVER KNOW.

So why do we compare tunes then? If everything is subject to error/accuracy issues.

Why do you have a power thread to compare tunes? Why don't we tell everyone to do exactly the same mods and use exactly the same dyno at exactly the same temperature at exactly the same altitude at exactly the same geographic position at exactly the sime time of day.

Way to put a dampener on my day nismoid.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351213-what-the/#findComment-5635845
Share on other sites

So you what do you think of this...

SAU Member: Kris..

rb20DET

HKS 25/35 turbo rebuilt by RotaMaster

JJR 38mm external watsgate

Supertech forged pistons 20thou oversized

HKS camshafts, 264/8.5mm

HKS cam gears

GReddy returnflo front mount intercooler kit

Gkteck dump and front pipe

Blitz cat back

Splitfire coilpacks

JJR alloy radiator

z32 AFM

GTR injectors and resistor pack

Status remaped ECU

Walbro fuel pump

238rwkw @ 19psi

Me

Full RB20DET rebuild with upgraded rods and bearings (nothing forged as far as I know)

FMIC

Full turbo back exhaust with performance cat

Greddy Dump Pipe

z32 AFM

Cold air intake

Splitfire coilpacks

550cc injectors

Stock ECu remap

Garrett GT2871R

Bosch 044

Exedy Super HD Clutch

230.3rwkw @ 16psi Dyno Sheet R32 GTS-T.pdf

So the guy above threw 3 x as many mods into his 32 as me and only has 8 more rwkw and is running 3 psi more boost.

Can anyone explain this???

i just removed the things that wouldnt effect overall power. he has 2 more mods then you. i could simplify the engine work by grouping it under "rebuilt engine" and im pretty sure it will be the same.

you pretty much have the same amount/type of mods but he is pulling more power.

peace out.

Edited by SECURITY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351213-what-the/#findComment-5636257
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...