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Hey guys,

So i bought a Datsun 120Y, real classic shape, always loved it. 4 speed manual, around 35kw factory, a real beast whistling.gif

I want to use this car for mainly track, but wouldn't mind having it registered so i can drive occasionally also. My plans for it are:

-engine conversion, either a RB20DET or SR20DET. Personally would prefer the RB, only cause i know how they sound and feel, and its amazing. Thoughts on this?

-5 speed box from either the SR or the RB. Better for sliding then the stock 4 speed? worth the extra cash?

- nice exhaust, just good flow, 3" will do.

- Big cooler, to keep the temp, on track down

- some nice jap dished rims, 15" or 16" preferably, but really wide.

- obviously supporting mods for the engine, like manifolds, boost controller and gauge etc.

- just a fresh respray, black would be nice, go over the stock blue easily and be nice and cheap.

So, whats your opinion on how this will pan out as a build? Mind you this will be done over a 1-3 year period, and Im trying to keep it around 10k max.

Cheers guys, let me know what you think!

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Awesome. Always wanted to stick a big motor in one of those old datto's.

The SR20 should be lighter being an alloy block, but has a few weaknesses in the rocker arms, timing chain etc but won't be a problem at stockish power levels.

How about a CA18DET? Might be a good option.

I'm pretty sure the engine bay isn't anywhere long enough to accommodate 6 cylinders. A grunty little 4, along the lines of the CA18, is likely your best bet.

But then you need to worry about how to make it stop. And turn corners. Maybe address those problems first.

An RB won't fit without moving the firewall or relocating the radiator.

The CA/SR/FJ route has been done a lot, and for good reason. It works.

If it's a toy I'd look at decompressing an L20 and hanging a T3 sucking through a Weber off the side. 130kW, heaps of fun, relativelly cheap.

Check out Ozdat and Datnet websites for more info.

BTW, you're in probably the best place in the counrty to own a Datto. Maddat and Datsport are both in SA.

Maddat concentrate more on 120y and Datsport on 1600s. But both are an awesome source of parts and knowledge.

There's a guy up here in Brisbane who's got a rb26 with a big single (not sure if its as big as a gt35 though) in a 120Y.It can be done, not sure if it'd be any good though, traction wise. A ~230Kw motor is about all you'd want to go for in one anyway, from what i've heard.

Or you could be different and chuck a carburetted L20 in it. (or U20 if they fit, and you can find one)

  • Like 1

either ca or sr. you will have trouble fitting a rb in there (not saying it can't be done, just saying it's much harder than the 4 pots). mate of mine has a 1200 ute with a ca in it. goes pretty good. if you go a sr and want to spend time at high rpm just put some rocker stoppers in and you'll be right.

Yeh thinking tHe CA or SR is a cheaper, simpler way to go. Does anyone know what the process is for registering an engine swap? And costs?

You could turbo the A series easy enough.

Or, as one guy on Ozdat has done, get it breathing through a set of motorbike throttle bodies. Not a difficult job, goes well enough to have some fun. revs like a banshee and sounds amazing.

He's running a Megasquirt and it works a treat.

Not his car but A series' running quad flatslides off a bike.

BTW, you're in probably the best place in the counrty to own a Datto. Maddat and Datsport are both in SA.

Maddat concentrate more on 120y and Datsport on 1600s. But both are an awesome source of parts and knowledge.

imo these fellas in sa are local and in the know. see ozdat or nzdatsun.com also for info. i have a few mates with datto 1200s and utes in nz even sporting fj20et. one tuff engine :s

enginekt9.jpg

Drove it home today, didnt make it up the drive way first time domokun.gif

It starts when its cold, but the battery charge light comes on and stays on, and then it idles fine, you turn it off and try and turn it back on and it wont even tick over, is the alternator stuffed? I couldnt figure it out :S

anyway, im going to strip as much as i can legally this weekend, and hopefully get a new door rolleyes.gif

How cheaply can i get a SR20DET setup? I dont mind about kilometres, just in good running condition... I think this is the next task, get that crappy A12 out and get is running smoothly.

Also, could mods please move this to Projects/Build ups?

Thanks guys

How "cheaply" depends of if you want a decent job, or a POS that'll never be right.

http://www.maddat.com.au/1200.php

That's a good starting point.

Figure in $1000 for a fitting kit, $1500 from brake upgrade, $300 for rubbers, $1000 for fuel system, $500 + for radiator/intercooler (or $1700 for the Maddat kit), $1500 for a diff (or$2,500 for the Maddat kit).

There's $6k there and you don't have the engine yet. You're going to need probably another $1000 for electrical stuff. Your trans tunnel will need significant mods. Figure in at least $700 there unless you can do it all yourself.

Of course, you could do it cheaper than this by building a lot of stuff yourself, for example sourcing some R31 front struts, having them cut down, a new spring platform made up and some smaller, custom coils made. You'd probably get them for $1000 then, but in reality you'd likely need new discs and pads and both caliper rebuilt. Don't do this, and it might be $500 cheaper but your result is questionable.

BTW, is it a 120 or a 1200?

SR like people are saying is going to be a good way to go.

I've only just moved over to a Silvia from rallying a 120Y for many years, Dad and i are actually restoring another one now that will end up with an SR engine upgrade.

You really need to consider handling and brakes before putting that much power into a 120Y though. There is heaps of stuff available though to upgrade them. My old car had disc brakes all round with commodore callipers and vented front rotors.

I also added a rear sway bar and panard bar whilst putting in a TA22 celica diff.

front suspension was Stanza with commodore inserts the list goes on lol, but that should give you some ideas.

If you can do most of it yourself you will save a lot of money as the parts ive listed are not that expensive to buy.

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