Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAU,

I am having trouble with engine knocking. I have tried a 500ml bottle of Wynns Octane Booster, which claims to stop engine knocking, and there are still knocks. I put the booster in before i filled the car up, drove around slowly for a few mins to help mix it through the tank (like going around roundabouts, swerving side to side down the road *like the racecars do when they warm their tryes*) and still get the knocks.

When i start the engine, there are 1 or 2. whenever i try put my foot down, the number shoots up to about 30-40.

I have to drive 4 hours home tomorrow so i am hoping to get some help by then.

Things worth noting:

I have recently had the battery disconnected, and a larger battery put in.

Before i put the octane booster, after i put the foot down i had 58 knocks. So, the booster helped a little but there are still problems.

I have the following mods- Apexi power fc, apexi boost controller, 3inch turbo back exhaust.

Only run 98 shell V power

The car is on stock boost.

Cheers,

Lachlan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/
Share on other sites

Go in to settings then inj/ign trim and trim the ignition down 5 degrees until u get a retune.

U will need to do this everytime u start the car as its only temporary.

This should be enough but keep an eye on the knock still

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637042
Share on other sites

Speak to whoever tuned your car and get them to have a look at it will probably just need to touch it up abit. If you havent tuned your car and are complaining about knock form just sticking the pre tuned power fc well theres your problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637046
Share on other sites

30 is perfectly normal for most tunes and within acceptable range.

The motor will never have zero, in fact you will rarely see the sensor read below 10.

If you are worried about the tune, it's quite simple - Don't drive around on boost.

If you stay off boost, low load/RPM then it should be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637051
Share on other sites

Speak to whoever tuned your car and get them to have a look at it will probably just need to touch it up abit. If you havent tuned your car and are complaining about knock form just sticking the pre tuned power fc well theres your problem.

i bought the car tuned, and since the battery came out im guessing it reset itself. Spose i can contact the seller, but regardless i will need a retune it seems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637056
Share on other sites

i bought the car tuned, and since the battery came out im guessing it reset itself. Spose i can contact the seller, but regardless i will need a retune it seems.

The powerfc doesnt reset it self no matter if you disconnect the battery. Either your using different petrol or maybe even the hotter weather conditions have effected it. But yeah Id say best thing would be take it to the tuner and hell quickly chuck it on the dyno and fix it up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637064
Share on other sites

Go in to settings then inj/ign trim and trim the ignition down 5 degrees until u get a retune.

U will need to do this everytime u start the car as its only temporary.

This should be enough but keep an eye on the knock still

I just got back from a run, where i set the timing back 5 degrees. It worked, i got a maximum of 9 knocks, with 4 coming from starting the engine (before i could change it). got 5 knocks one way, and then 0 on the return trip.

Is there a way to permanently set it back 5 degrees instead of everytime i start the car? like make it the default setting or something.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637073
Share on other sites

read the PFC FAQ on correcting knocking in my signature

you cant set the temp ign adjust as it clears each time you key off and isn't meant as a permenant fix

ie; you would not want to -5 the whole map, it would suck

you only need -5 deg where its knocking and -2 might even be enough

you need to speak to a tuner and say your car currently knocks as is, but if you -5 deg its fine

and they should adjust the "max load" are on the map and take out some timing

dont let them adjust the "CAS" or back dial it. some lazy tuners do this

dont let them shift the whole map -5 or -2. some lazy tuners do this

you only want the max load area -2 (or whatever the magic number is)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637140
Share on other sites

even 58 isnt all that bad, needs fixing tho. 1 degree from the suspect cell should fix your troubles. as paul said, read his faq, has everything you need to know. could also find someone in your area with datalogit if you dont want to pay for dyno time

btw dont keep using octane booster, once off is ok but it destroys plugs and o2 sensors really fast with continued use

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637148
Share on other sites

and it costs you extra money each time and it wont fix the problem, retune the few cells that are knocking and your done

Ok. I read your guide, and i have done for a while now its great :) fixed my airbag light blinking also which was a bonus!

But, while trying to understand the map tracer and changing the ignition timing manually, i have not figured out how to see which cells need to be changed. How can you tell what cell or cells are knocking? and how can you tell what to change them to?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637226
Share on other sites

Bit cheaper then a re-tune but lol?

The map tracer makes it really hard to see where the knock is because it only shows you what cell you are on not what figures you are getting on that cell..... The only way to really do it as far as I know is to find the point where it has a high knock (eg full throttle, 3rd gear, 5000rpm) and then mimic that in map tracer to find the cell where it is getting this bad knock

This is a pain really... Much easier with FC Edit or another program seen as you can log in Map watch what cells are getting which figures.

Im happy to be corrected if wrong but I think eleminating knock on the hand controller is pretty time consuming

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637232
Share on other sites

Take it to a tuner and get it tuned.

Just because you have the number 30 there or 50 even, doesn't mean it knocked 50 times. That is a value to tell you the intensity of knock. 50 being higher than 30 for example. 30-40 is acceptable. 50 is getting high. If you take it to someone who knows what they are doing, you may get away with fixing it instead of melting a piston because you changed something you shouldn't

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637245
Share on other sites

Exactly. There is no way the PFC was registering "0" knock.

One way up the road, i got up to 9 on the knock meter. then, when i turned around and came back, it didnt change from 9. Thats why i said it had 0 knock.

Before "elite racing" mentioned that the number displayed is actually the level of knock, not the amount of knocks, i never actually knew that. So, its possible that it knocked along the way home and didnt go above 9. I should have switched the motor off after one way, to then see what happened on the way back, but i never knew how the knock counter worked.

I will do more testing tomorrow and see some results, as i will need to refil after the trip home so i will use BP to see if that works to check that possibility. I have booked a tune in for monday afternoon so if it isnt a petrol issue than i will see what the tuner can do.

Thanks guys :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637302
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
×
×
  • Create New...