Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAU,

I am having trouble with engine knocking. I have tried a 500ml bottle of Wynns Octane Booster, which claims to stop engine knocking, and there are still knocks. I put the booster in before i filled the car up, drove around slowly for a few mins to help mix it through the tank (like going around roundabouts, swerving side to side down the road *like the racecars do when they warm their tryes*) and still get the knocks.

When i start the engine, there are 1 or 2. whenever i try put my foot down, the number shoots up to about 30-40.

I have to drive 4 hours home tomorrow so i am hoping to get some help by then.

Things worth noting:

I have recently had the battery disconnected, and a larger battery put in.

Before i put the octane booster, after i put the foot down i had 58 knocks. So, the booster helped a little but there are still problems.

I have the following mods- Apexi power fc, apexi boost controller, 3inch turbo back exhaust.

Only run 98 shell V power

The car is on stock boost.

Cheers,

Lachlan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/
Share on other sites

Go in to settings then inj/ign trim and trim the ignition down 5 degrees until u get a retune.

U will need to do this everytime u start the car as its only temporary.

This should be enough but keep an eye on the knock still

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637042
Share on other sites

Speak to whoever tuned your car and get them to have a look at it will probably just need to touch it up abit. If you havent tuned your car and are complaining about knock form just sticking the pre tuned power fc well theres your problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637046
Share on other sites

30 is perfectly normal for most tunes and within acceptable range.

The motor will never have zero, in fact you will rarely see the sensor read below 10.

If you are worried about the tune, it's quite simple - Don't drive around on boost.

If you stay off boost, low load/RPM then it should be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637051
Share on other sites

Speak to whoever tuned your car and get them to have a look at it will probably just need to touch it up abit. If you havent tuned your car and are complaining about knock form just sticking the pre tuned power fc well theres your problem.

i bought the car tuned, and since the battery came out im guessing it reset itself. Spose i can contact the seller, but regardless i will need a retune it seems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637056
Share on other sites

i bought the car tuned, and since the battery came out im guessing it reset itself. Spose i can contact the seller, but regardless i will need a retune it seems.

The powerfc doesnt reset it self no matter if you disconnect the battery. Either your using different petrol or maybe even the hotter weather conditions have effected it. But yeah Id say best thing would be take it to the tuner and hell quickly chuck it on the dyno and fix it up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637064
Share on other sites

Go in to settings then inj/ign trim and trim the ignition down 5 degrees until u get a retune.

U will need to do this everytime u start the car as its only temporary.

This should be enough but keep an eye on the knock still

I just got back from a run, where i set the timing back 5 degrees. It worked, i got a maximum of 9 knocks, with 4 coming from starting the engine (before i could change it). got 5 knocks one way, and then 0 on the return trip.

Is there a way to permanently set it back 5 degrees instead of everytime i start the car? like make it the default setting or something.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637073
Share on other sites

read the PFC FAQ on correcting knocking in my signature

you cant set the temp ign adjust as it clears each time you key off and isn't meant as a permenant fix

ie; you would not want to -5 the whole map, it would suck

you only need -5 deg where its knocking and -2 might even be enough

you need to speak to a tuner and say your car currently knocks as is, but if you -5 deg its fine

and they should adjust the "max load" are on the map and take out some timing

dont let them adjust the "CAS" or back dial it. some lazy tuners do this

dont let them shift the whole map -5 or -2. some lazy tuners do this

you only want the max load area -2 (or whatever the magic number is)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637140
Share on other sites

even 58 isnt all that bad, needs fixing tho. 1 degree from the suspect cell should fix your troubles. as paul said, read his faq, has everything you need to know. could also find someone in your area with datalogit if you dont want to pay for dyno time

btw dont keep using octane booster, once off is ok but it destroys plugs and o2 sensors really fast with continued use

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637148
Share on other sites

and it costs you extra money each time and it wont fix the problem, retune the few cells that are knocking and your done

Ok. I read your guide, and i have done for a while now its great :) fixed my airbag light blinking also which was a bonus!

But, while trying to understand the map tracer and changing the ignition timing manually, i have not figured out how to see which cells need to be changed. How can you tell what cell or cells are knocking? and how can you tell what to change them to?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637226
Share on other sites

Bit cheaper then a re-tune but lol?

The map tracer makes it really hard to see where the knock is because it only shows you what cell you are on not what figures you are getting on that cell..... The only way to really do it as far as I know is to find the point where it has a high knock (eg full throttle, 3rd gear, 5000rpm) and then mimic that in map tracer to find the cell where it is getting this bad knock

This is a pain really... Much easier with FC Edit or another program seen as you can log in Map watch what cells are getting which figures.

Im happy to be corrected if wrong but I think eleminating knock on the hand controller is pretty time consuming

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637232
Share on other sites

Take it to a tuner and get it tuned.

Just because you have the number 30 there or 50 even, doesn't mean it knocked 50 times. That is a value to tell you the intensity of knock. 50 being higher than 30 for example. 30-40 is acceptable. 50 is getting high. If you take it to someone who knows what they are doing, you may get away with fixing it instead of melting a piston because you changed something you shouldn't

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637245
Share on other sites

Exactly. There is no way the PFC was registering "0" knock.

One way up the road, i got up to 9 on the knock meter. then, when i turned around and came back, it didnt change from 9. Thats why i said it had 0 knock.

Before "elite racing" mentioned that the number displayed is actually the level of knock, not the amount of knocks, i never actually knew that. So, its possible that it knocked along the way home and didnt go above 9. I should have switched the motor off after one way, to then see what happened on the way back, but i never knew how the knock counter worked.

I will do more testing tomorrow and see some results, as i will need to refil after the trip home so i will use BP to see if that works to check that possibility. I have booked a tune in for monday afternoon so if it isnt a petrol issue than i will see what the tuner can do.

Thanks guys :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351319-engine-knocking/#findComment-5637302
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...