Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Injectors For A R33 Series1


mat277
 Share

Recommended Posts

5000cc, made in Russia.

Come on mate, how can there be "one best" injector when set-ups vary from 200rwkw to 600rwkw?

Insufficient detail to answer such a question.

lol. I use syringes, 200cc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how much power are you planning on making? and on which fuel?

I would be really happy to get about 300kw at the wheels and be running premium fuel. My motor has been fully rebuilt, i have adjustable timing gears, bigger fuel pump and im about to upgrade my turbo. I just want a slightly bigger injector than standard. I have an R33 GTST with an RB25DET in it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

555cc if you go a 3071 or smaller

740cc if you go a 3076 or larger

740cc minimum if you are going to run e85

1000cc if you want to shoot for more power on e85 later on

thanks thats what i needed to hear

Link to comment
Share on other sites

get ones with a decent spray pattern as well, don't just look at the cc rating.

Which ones have good spray patterns then?

I mean i got these sard dual spray ones (designed for JZ engines) that dont seem to have a spray pattern really they just shoot 2 huge jets of fuel out, have read somewhere they can spray into the walls on RBs ..Dunno if thats any good or not but they work ok..Definately can supply a heap of fuel..

Edited by Arthur T3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't know to be honest, I haven't been injector shopping yet. But I do know that there is an appreciable difference between cheap and good ones.

Start googling for reviews and tech articles, that is what I would be doing.

Edited by Rolls
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't know to be honest, I haven't been injector shopping yet. But I do know that there is an appreciable difference between cheap and good ones.

Start googling for reviews and tech articles, that is what I would be doing.

Not to worry, I did some googling when i got them but didnt find alot, they're already in the car and working fine, if they stop working then i will worry.. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are the torque specs for those 6 bolts on the retainer plate and 4 oil pan bolts? I'm currently tackling this job during an auto to manual conversion... I thought this would a 5 minute job! 
    • Tryna decide if I should get a skirt coating on my cp 2618 forged pistons that im about to order. Anyone have first hand experience with a forged RB with coated or non coated piston skirts? Is it worth it and does it make much difference? And for people who went with 2618 pistons with no skirt coating how long has your engine lasted? The engine is an rb25/30 and main concern is  that It will be a daily car and will probably see a fair bit of short distance driving, have been told by my machine shop and my tuner that generally a forged engine lasts around 40,000kms before needing a rebuild. Would a skirt coating make much of a difference? cheers 
    • From now on read it as minus 5 and minus 7 instead of dash, and you're correct...
    • Opened up the cluster to inspect the gauge itself for signs of damage and it looks good. Got curious since that needle doesn't go back to a "neutral" position by itself (it stays in the same position when ignition is off. so I manually moved it to 1/2. Connected it back, turned on the ignition and the needle started moving up! Not sure what's up with that but before that the needle was way down below empty like fully south west. There's always a chance that the needle moved slightly the first time I tried and I didn't notice because of how slowly it moves and how far it was from the markings. I don't know if the current needle position is accurate so I'll fill it up and see where that brings it. I guess I'll try to adjust it manually if it doesn't get to F. Looks like the needle position is relative and not absolute? Thanks all for your help and patience!
    • You're confusing two different responders and more than one issue. The stock Neo ECU boost sensor is used by the ECU for protection purposes. It is essentially only an overboost sensor. It is not used for determining engine load for fuelling or ignition purposes. That task falls solely to the AFM. Any aftermarket ECU that either has an onboard MAP sensor or a plug in one, will use the MAP sensor as the primary load sensor. Or I should perhaps say "can", rather than "will", because some of them have the option of using other primary load sensors. That MAP sensor is not for the same function as the stock Neo boost sensor. The reason I recommended against a plug and play ECU is that they are intended to run a particular engine and usually in the car that the particular engine came in. So, if you have a transplanted engine in a different car, with some parts of the original missing (such as the boost sensor, for example) and therefore likely non-standardness of the loom and its insertion into the car's loom, then it is very likely that you will run into the same problems with needing to fix up wiring to make it work that you would with the stock ECU. And, if doing so for the stock ECU is enough of an obstacle that you start considering a standalone plugin as a solution, it should become clear that the plugin is quite possibly not the solution you'd hope it to be. It would just lead to more of the same type of problem solving work to get it going. In the above paragraph and in my earlier post, the lack of the boost sensor is not critical. It was just used as an example of something that we knew you did not have right, such that the stock ECU would not work. I took that as an indicator of a reasonable probability that there were other related problems hiding there.
×
×
  • Create New...