Jump to content
SAU Community

What Tailshaft Are You Running

CeJay
 Share

Recommended Posts

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

why? theres twice as many joints to fail..

Yeah only if the joints used are under rated for the application. Many 500hp applications still use the factory tailshaft.

2 piece shafts are stronger. It's a fact and any driveshaft specialist will say the same.

Going back to a previous post by someone, the falcon tailshaft made from alloy....Aluminium is lighter, therefore it has a much higher critical speed and they use a 3inch tube from memory. The longer the shaft, the stronger the material has to be or you have to lighten the shaft and/or make the tube diameter larger as well. The larger the diameter and the lighter it is, the critical speed goes up further. That is why carbon fibre shafts are probably the best material you can use. Extremely strong, extremely light.

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

FineLine
FineLine

Its a harmonics thing. The one piece gets a death vibe at certain rpm whereas the 2 piece halves the likelihood of it happenning.

Posted Images

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
Posted

About 6 months ago I got my 2 peice rebuilt from my 300rwkw R34. 1st drive I popped the clutch at about 4k RPM in 1st and blew 3 uni joints to peice's. I then returned said tail shaft and it was then forwared onto spicer, who refused to warrant the parts as they beleived I had either put huge power or locked the shaft some how. My question was, "how would you suggest a way that I could snap all 3 uni's in 1 go with out smashing out the bottom of my car?" they couldn't answer me. Luckily the workshop that built it for me where as confused as I was and met me half way with building a complete new 1 peice shaft.

A 1 peice shaft deffinitly transmit alot more vibration into the car but from what I can tell should almost be indestructable as it's much bulkier then original.

regards

Chris

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

About 6 months ago I got my 2 peice rebuilt from my 300rwkw R34. 1st drive I popped the clutch at about 4k RPM in 1st and blew 3 uni joints to peice's. I then returned said tail shaft and it was then forwared onto spicer, who refused to warrant the parts as they beleived I had either put huge power or locked the shaft some how. My question was, "how would you suggest a way that I could snap all 3 uni's in 1 go .......................

regards

Chris

Got any photos?

Reason I ask, the shop I use does routine maintenance work for BMW and Merc. Both these cars have non-replaceable uni joints same as the Skylines.

Whenever I get a shaft built it's done with new yokes that have conventional circlipped-in replaceable unis, there's very few Nissan components left when he's finished.

BUT the guys from BM and Merc won't have non-original components on their cars, they have the peened-in design yokes machined for circlips, pass them over to him and he re-builds the shaft.

There's practically no metal left in the yokes.

I'd be interested to see if your re-built shaft was done that way.

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
Posted

Got any photos?

Reason I ask, the shop I use does routine maintenance work for BMW and Merc. Both these cars have non-replaceable uni joints same as the Skylines.

Whenever I get a shaft built it's done with new yokes that have conventional circlipped-in replaceable unis, there's very few Nissan components left when he's finished.

BUT the guys from BM and Merc won't have non-original components on their cars, they have the peened-in design yokes machined for circlips, pass them over to him and he re-builds the shaft.

There's practically no metal left in the yokes.

I'd be interested to see if your re-built shaft was done that way.

hey Jiffo,

unfortunatly I never took any photo's of the shaft when it sheered all the uni's. I know exactly what your saying, yes the shaft was the peened style and machined the yoke to suit the circlip style. when it failed, none of the actual yokes broke, it sheered the actualle centres out of all of them. I would have though that machining the yokes would have caused them to be weaker and snap there first but it didn't.

Chris

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

lets see. i wonder what most race cars and drag cars use.. as long as the driveline angle is in check (most of the time its not..) i cant see any problems. besides a longer shaft will have more twist and hence be nicer to the unies..

Sherrybaby Enthusiast

Sherrybaby

Posted
Posted

i had massive issues with mine... and i needed a new cv joint.. but apparently... (i got told) that there is i think it was 3 bearings.. like a centre and a front and a back...

it was weird...

But i dont know too much about tailshafts.... plus i think that mechanic was dodgy....

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

lets see. as long as the driveline angle is in check (most of the time its not..)

Exactly right.

99% of owners don't realise you must run your flanges parallel.

That usually means packing the diff, stiffer engine mounts and some serious dimension checking.

Comparing a 25 box with a sliding yoke to a GT4 box with an output flange is also useless, the shaft must have some in/out flexibility either from the CV or a spline.

Running a sliding yoke style box with a worn out extension bearing is also asking for vibrations.

A stock 2-piece will let you get away with a lot of these faults, they may not even be noticed by the average driver, but a 1-piece will show them up big time.

Wonder how many 1-piece owners have fitted a shaft hoop where the centre bearing used to live?

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
owen25det Explorer

owen25det

Posted
Posted

what sort of horespower are the stock 2 piece shafts cappable of?

i know someone earlier said they have been using around the 500 to 600 hp mark but what application are you using your car for? street, drift, drag, track?

if anyone is using a stock shaft with slicks at the drags would be handy to know the following..

*horsepower

*revs on launch

*tyres being used

cheers

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
NIS.26L Rising Star

NIS.26L

Posted
Posted

just ordered myself a one piece cromolly tailshaft of uniqiue autosports for my r34gtr it has 360klw at the wheels,will let u guys know how it go's fingers crossed i dont get problems, its totally made will all new parts and its costing me $1500 john seems to know his shit we running a cv type flange on the rear and beefed up unis on the front with mark williams yokes

  • 7 months later...
abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
Posted

I have a new shaft being built atm, im running 3 inch heavier tube, with uni's that are a 30mm cap x 90mm uni with external clips and all replaceable uni's. Will be a 2 piece shaft. The builder said they make them for 1000hp drag cars with no failures. Should well exceed my needs.

abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
Posted

where are you looking at getting these built from? is their specific shops that specialize in performance tailshafts?

Hardy spicer

Fark! i've got a 1 piece built by ADL, it's been fine so far, fark! i'm going to have to change it

Why?

WMDC35 Experienced

WMDC35

Posted
Posted

Hardy spicer

Why?

Ring any tailshaft maker in your area and they should tell you that a tube shaft of the length required in a skyline (I think it's around 50inches) will go critical at 6000-6500rpm. The harmonic inbalance is usually so harsh that they bend or buckle as a result.

Of course it depends on the material they are made from, how thick and the diameter of the tube but 2 piece shafts are stronger, much stronger. We put 600+hp through them all the time without hassles

this info seems to be on the money, my shaft is just over 50 inches :whistling: , compared with 4wd which is around 10 inches shorter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      New Skyline will be RWD and manual

      By PranK · Posted

    • GTSBoy
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, you're wrong, and you've always been wrong about this. The Nismo has 2 sets of openings. One is a real 2-way, and the other is a 1-way. There is no 1.5-way possible with the ramps that they offer. A real 1.5-way does exist. That Cusco stuff I posted is a prime example. If the forward drive ramps are, say 55°, and the overrun ramps are, say, 30°, then you will get about half as much LSD effect on overrun than you do on drive. It is real, it realy works. OK, you're slightly right. The Nismo has 55° and 45° ramps on the 2-way, so it does offer less LSD effect on overrun. But, I think that just means that they've (probably) sensibly established that you do not want actually equal LSD effect on overrun. You just want "quite a lot, but not quite as much as the drive LSD effect".
    • DraftySquash
      Newbie from VIC

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Just wanted to unearth this and post my baby with the new front ❤️😝 Took her to my wedding rehearsal today. Next up is getting wide skirts (after wedding)
    • Kinkstaah
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea, that is what I was getting at in my ramblings too. The nismo one actually is a 1.5 way and a 1 way. They don't do a *2* way because a true *2* way would have equal ramp angles. Or is that a true 1.5 way? Realistically I think a "1.5 way" does not actually exist. A diff can either lock in two directions or one. It also doesn't help that a LOT of people in Australia speak about 1.5 way diffs are referring to their 1 way diff.
    • GTSBoy
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
×
×
  • Create New...