Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hai guise, was wondering if there are any home tricks to checking the state of the intake? IE if there are any air leaks?

or do i need to take the car to a shop for them to pressure test it?

cheers

Edited by Clutch
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351535-intake-leak-test/
Share on other sites

I made up a cheap one with some pvc pipe caps and a $20 hand pump. See below photos. I blocked off the pipe going into the throttle body, hooked up the pump to where the pod filter was and pumped away.

The advantage of the hand pump over an air compressor is that because it is quiet it is very easy to hear even the smallest leak.

Do you mean the intake manifold or intake piping? Mine was for the intake piping.

post-29432-0-01090900-1295839930_thumb.jpg

post-29432-0-80208500-1295839934_thumb.jpg

post-29432-0-91684800-1295839940_thumb.jpg

If you get a can of Aerostart or similar and spray it around while the car is idling it should raise the revs if theres a leak as it will suck it in. Perhaps not as good as the method mentioned above but if your looking to do it without spending to much that would be the the way to go

To check for a leak in intercooler, piping or around silicon joins, etc spray with soapy water, preferably while at a high idle (1500-2000rpm is plenty).

If you have a leak it will blow bubbles.

Seems wierd & you may think the water would get sucked in but it works...

Another good one is to remove your pod / airbox so you have access to the afm and while the car is idling cover the afm with your hand so no air can get in.

Then you should be able to hear the hiss of where the air is getting into the intake.

if you have a leak as well, you should blow a small amount of black smoke on boost. some of the air will escape the intake piping, but since it's still being measured by the AFM the correct amount of fuel will be going in as though there wasn't a leak.

Unless you're running a MAP sensor like me. then you're screwed for this idea lol

yes. If the leak is big enough in your case, you'll be sucking in air that hasn't been measures by the AFM while idling or off-boost. This will cause you to run lean, and missfire like a 14yr old boy at a wet T-shirt comp.

Damn you!

I read this thread a couple of hours ago and thought hmmm maybe i'll go look over my intake to see if I have any leaks. Turns out I have a leak coming from under the plenum where the damn gasket has slightly blown out.

God damnit!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...