Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1992 R32 gtst with the following mods:

- HSD coilovers

- adjustable castor rods

- Hicas lockbar

- Pineapple bushes

- Slotted rotors

- QFM pads

- 3" turbo back

- gutted cat

- RB25DET+box

- KKR430 turbo w/ 1 bar wastegate (i know i know)

- cheapie FMIC

- blitz suspower pod

- exedy clutch

- Microtech LT16 with hand controller

- sard FPR

- OS Giken cam gear

- Gates racing t/belt

interior and exterior are essentially stock (just type m kit)

was thinking next steps are diff, seat(s), cage and susspension arms/sway bars

anybody got ideas on what I should get, also good chance to sell your shit if you are selling

cheers smile.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351587-what-should-i-do-with-a-spare-2000/
Share on other sites

I would go a better turbo, but then u need afm, injectors and fuel pump so thats about ~3-5k

so instead I would go a decent non restrictive cat so you dont get f**d if you get pulled over and some rims.

hey guys, yea I want performance, but in a holistic sense (so handling too) JDM drift pig lol.

I am not after subs, more weight, have a decent head deck and speakers.

sorry forgot to mention too that I have 17" Enkei Racing S wheels (cant afford TE37s or Meisters lol)

also have walbro fuel pump and the microtech has a MAP sensor so no AFM woes for me lol

lol 2k is a long way off that 35

eney how i would say get rid of that shitty kkr.

but on the other hand maby do the cage and susspension arms/sway bars make it handle better.

seat would be good as well

Edited by whitenight27

Larger injectors, new turbo and tune!

car will get a high mount in about a year...don't want another low mount. so since I can't afford the manifold etc so no new turbo atm

and I only have 2k to spend, the car was tuned last week...so mainly handling and seats, diff etc

Ok off to the handling area then :D

Far better responses in there :)

haha yeah sorry bout that, thanks :D

yea was thinking sway bars and camber arms, is it possible to get a 1.5 or 2 way for 500 to 1000 bucks?

What tires are you using atm?

2k..

f/r adjustable swaybars - 500

second hand lsd - say 800

aggressive street wheel alignment + corner weighting - $350

Strip the car (start with boot and rear) depending on personal preference/usage - free

Bit of money left over for install help if you cant diy/some replacement bushes.

Depending on how low it is, you might not need adjustable sussy arms etc. The factory stuff gives a small range of adjustment and is generally enough to do an aggressive street setup if the car's not too low (check the bushes condition though).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...