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Sorry should of been more specific, it has been replaced with a reconditioned one for $150.. so i was pretty happy with that considering he told me a brand new one would cost me $800 from nissan.

Which car was yours Scooby?

Edited by Aleckr33

Sorry should of been more specific, it has been replaced with a reconditioned one for $150.. so i was pretty happy with that considering he told me a brand new one would cost me $800 from nissan.

Which car was yours Scooby?

Bargain, nice work. Mine was the Grey 32 GTR.

Sorry should of been more specific, it has been replaced with a reconditioned one for $150.. so i was pretty happy with that considering he told me a brand new one would cost me $800 from nissan.

Which car was yours Scooby?

Bargain, nice work. Mine was the Grey 32 GTR.

quickest and easiest way to test the cat is to drop it and run the car on the dyno with just the dump/front hooked up and see what sort of difference it makes. if its 5-10kw then the exhaust isnt your problem. if it jumps 20+kw (might need retuning, less pressure means you can run more timing) then you have a restriction

quickest and easiest way to test the cat is to drop it and run the car on the dyno with just the dump/front hooked up and see what sort of difference it makes. if its 5-10kw then the exhaust isnt your problem. if it jumps 20+kw (might need retuning, less pressure means you can run more timing) then you have a restriction

BINGO!. no need to take it somewhere to test. it's a 10min job to unbolt the cat. and most workshops would have a bolt in de-cat pipe around (if so even better as it means no exhaust spewing out the middle of the car in the dyno cell). then back on the dyno and see if there's any change.

He could be getting bungs welded on to measure back pressure with a gauge but why bother.

I went to an exh shop once to get some bungs welded on for that purpose as I didn't have access to a dyno, but the owner reckoned he had just the thing to measure back pressure and produced a pencil gauge with a needle fitting that he proceeded to stick into a tiny hole he drilled in the pipe while asking me to rev it. At this stage I was staying with him out of curiosity. After 3 goes he pronounced it free as a bird. Excellent (bollocks). When I did get to using the dyno I found the cat was costing me 20rwkw.

That's the one Steveo. I removed the TT badge etc and cut the bracing. Bloody horrible but there wasn't another solution at the time (or one that I could find) and I'm not sure that's changed.

Fair enough but i dont agree that the it will get the heater working faster.

In my car with an oil cooler and a low temp thermostat it runs at 75 degrees on the dyno.

I do agree with a blocked radiator it wont cool correctly as u guys have said. But i would still get a nismo low temp and put it in. If the thermostat opens earlier than the coolant can be kept cooler from 62ish degrees instead of reaching 72 degrees and then slowly open and by the time the coolant has cooled and circulated through the motor the temp is up to 80+.

If it starts cooling at 62ish then its got a better chance of being kept lower.

Yavuz has noticed alot of Interferance with CAS signals on skylines lately. . Do u have a pic of the dyno sheet to show what he means

Have you guys ever thought about the fact your motor is designed to run at a higher temperature, so that it has the correct tolerances?

When you change the running temp away from what it has been designed to run at, you are causing more wear and tear?

yes i have thought of that, but on the circuit most cars without the cooling mods run at an even higher temperature than designed,you also need to take oil viscosity into consideration when talking about tolerances

Pressure test was done, turned out the ceramic catco cat was holding back about 20rwkw. It is now gutted lol.

After that Yavuz put it back on the dyno.... Results were going good till the clutch started to slip at around 220rwkw, got a bit of grip, then slipped again at 260rwkw :( so he stopped immediately after that. Car will be going back after i put a NPC 5 Puk button.

boost was at 19psi peak, drop off to 18.

dyno sheet isn't very clear, sorry. On the right side is the NM of torque.

post-63786-0-17092200-1299065544_thumb.jpg

Edited by Aleckr33

Update.

Yavuz called me today and said the CAS is now fixed, Idle control valve is fixed and the car seems to be running ok temperature since iv done the radiator flush. He said the car is currently making 250rwkw but is restricted. He thinks it could be the cat? ... the thing is i just purchased this high flow catco cat from Just jap a week before i gave the car to Unigroup... im not really keen on changing this because it's brand new obviously and thought it would be sufficient for the 250rwkw - 300rwkw mark.

Anyone else have any issues with a Catco cat? What power are you making if you have one?

Cheers

LOL... I've bought this up in a thread somewhere and the moderators were not too impressed with me bagging out forum sponsors.

  • Like 1

He could be getting bungs welded on to measure back pressure with a gauge but why bother.

I went to an exh shop once to get some bungs welded on for that purpose as I didn't have access to a dyno, but the owner reckoned he had just the thing to measure back pressure and produced a pencil gauge with a needle fitting that he proceeded to stick into a tiny hole he drilled in the pipe while asking me to rev it. At this stage I was staying with him out of curiosity. After 3 goes he pronounced it free as a bird. Excellent (bollocks). When I did get to using the dyno I found the cat was costing me 20rwkw.

I dont think this test is applicable to testing for a cat causing a 20kw restriction. When the car is free revving there is no load or boost to contribute to air travelling through the cat. Its more a test to see if the cat is seriously blocked.

I agree he should not say it is free as a bird as it is only a very simple test.

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