Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I'm doing a turbo swap on my R32 GTR, the old ceramics are going and -9's put in place, I'm also replacing the stock dumps with Tomei's (new style), Nismo frontpipe (60x2 -> 80) for a HKS frontpipe (70x2 -> 85).

It is mainly my daily, but I want to hit the track acouple times a year and want the underbonnet temps down.

I was thinking about getting the stock manifold ceramic coated (outside), dumps (inside & out) & turbo housings (inside & out). While wrapping the front pipe with exhaust wrap.

Would it be overkill to also wrap the dumps & manifold too, and how much many metres would I need (to do manifold, dumps & frontpipe)?

So I'm doing a turbo swap on my R32 GTR, the old ceramics are going and -9's put in place, I'm also replacing the stock dumps with Tomei's (new style), Nismo frontpipe (60x2 -> 80) for a HKS frontpipe (70x2 -> 85).

It is mainly my daily, but I want to hit the track acouple times a year and want the underbonnet temps down.

I was thinking about getting the stock manifold ceramic coated (outside), dumps (inside & out) & turbo housings (inside & out). While wrapping the front pipe with exhaust wrap.

Would it be overkill to also wrap the dumps & manifold too, and how much many metres would I need (to do manifold, dumps & frontpipe)?

My understanding is a good ceramic coating is way better than exhaust wrap so I wouldnt bother with the exhaust wrap as well.

The front pipe is 90% under the car so I dont think you will see much drop in underbonnet temps from heat wrapping the front pipe. May even be worse because it insulates it from the airflow underneath the car.

My understanding is a good ceramic coating is way better than exhaust wrap so I wouldnt bother with the exhaust wrap as well.

The front pipe is 90% under the car so I dont think you will see much drop in underbonnet temps from heat wrapping the front pipe. May even be worse because it insulates it from the airflow underneath the car.

I pulled off my front pipe on my car and heat wrapped it. I know when I am a passenger my right leg used to get very warm. Since then it is not as bad. Just do it. It wont/cant hurt!

reuse or custom fab some decent heat shields as well maybe ceramic coat em too

I didnt and am regretting it enough I will be pulling water lines etc. off to put new factory ones on ASAP

Relocating the carbon canister to allow more airflow to pods etc. is a major plus while you have room too.

Much easier than trying to do it afterword.

Edited by noone

What's the process involved in taking the turbo apart so the exhaust housing can be coated? is it a no brainer thing I cna do at home or something best left to a turbo expert

Brand new Garrett -9's. I counted 6 nuts that look like they secure the exhaust housing on, is it just a matter of undoing them and the ex housing just slides off?

Also when I pull them apart, do I need to pay special attention to putting the exhaust housing back on the turbo it was taken off, or shouldn't it matter as they're twins?

if possible i would use a centre punch and mark the 1st housing with 1 dot and mark the centre housing with 1 dot so the dots line up when refitting, and 2 dots on the 2nd turbo.

yep just undo all 6 or so bolts and then carefully twist and remove the rear housing. when refitting make sure the turbine spins after install

  • 3 weeks later...

I went through with what I planned, dropped these off last week, got them back today. $500 all up to get all 6 pieces (2x standard exhaust manifolds, 2x tomei dumps (new style) & 2x hks gt-ss/garrett -9 turbo exhaust housings coated inside and out with high temp satin black by Ceramic Coat (division of Pacemaker headers, next door).

The exhaust housings are back on the turbos, and now in the process of doing the turbo swap (ceramics out).

Took lots of pictures.

post-51527-0-11284800-1298634349_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-09001900-1298634356_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-60423500-1298634363_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-65962500-1298634372_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-85466500-1298634379_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-75935000-1298634390_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-22951300-1298634399_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-86464500-1298634407_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-94580100-1298634415_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-71383700-1298634424_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-03240900-1298634432_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-42998800-1298634440_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-85472300-1298634446_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-24562900-1298634458_thumb.jpg

post-51527-0-59903000-1298634465_thumb.jpg

  • 4 months later...

Coming from an ex employee of AAA exhausts ( next to pacemakers and ceramic coat australia, a guy who I work with ) using exhaust wrap crystalizes the metal ( especially stainless ) and halves its life causing cracks... best possible option is ceramic and heat sheilds but no wrap... this is what I'll be doing :thumbsup:

Coming from an ex employee of AAA exhausts ( next to pacemakers and ceramic coat australia, a guy who I work with ) using exhaust wrap crystalizes the metal ( especially stainless ) and halves its life causing cracks... best possible option is ceramic and heat sheilds but no wrap... this is what I'll be doing :thumbsup:

+1 I'm always about under bonnets temps as I ran my car on a cold and hot day and there was nearly a 40kw difference when the motor got really hot.

I first tried a decent exhaust wrap.... was absolutely sh*t, would never recommend - itchy as hell on your skin and does not do much for temps and after a few months I had a massive crack in my factory manifold.

I bought another stock manifold, got that as well as the turbo's rear housing heat coated inside and out which made a difference, but not that much.

The thing that made a massive difference - as in, I could not touch my intake pipe after a long drive it was that hot to the intake pipe feeling cold after a long drive was a heatshield I made out of aluminum which cost me $20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..   
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...