Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Fan - Normal Operating Behaviour

Plan-FAILURE

By Plan-FAILURE,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Plan-FAILURE Rising Star

Plan-FAILURE

Posted
Posted

Ok so when I first got my car it was back in October last year, I never used to notice the clutch fan come on and flick off. Now it seems like once the car has reached normal operating temperature the fan will be on most of the time which has prompted me to write this.

My question is basically what is the normal actuation and cut out parameters for the r32 gts-t clutch fan. I've been led to believe that clutch fans will also cut out at a certain rpm but mine doesn't and continues to wind up well past 4000 rpm.

NSNPWR Rising Star

NSNPWR

Posted
Posted

Then its seized mate, if its an RB20 or 25 you can get replacement fans from Repco for around $100...I had same issue with the one on my GTR, was just sticking on and sounded like a cessna not to mention the motor felt held back...I couldnt find an aftermarket replacement for RB26 (the snout on the hub is longer on the 26 vs 20/25) so I went to an Electric fan and sealed it in the factory shroud.

Plan-FAILURE Rising Star

Plan-FAILURE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Exactly the response I was after mate thanks.

I think mine may have become seized after it wore itself down a bit on my IC piping. Was making the most minor contact with the IC piping after the restraint broke its weld and probably over time it has slowly shat itself.

Unfortunate to hear about the rb26 fan not being an easy replaced item...

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

<cut>

Unfortunate to hear about the rb26 fan not being an easy replaced item...

Can be replaced, have a look through my older posts. I'm sure I've mentioned the part multiple times as I had it replaced.

It wasn't cheap though...

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

Ok so when I first got my car it was back in October last year, I never used to notice the clutch fan come on and flick off. Now it seems like once the car has reached normal operating temperature the fan will be on most of the time which has prompted me to write this.

My question is basically what is the normal actuation and cut out parameters for the r32 gts-t clutch fan. I've been led to believe that clutch fans will also cut out at a certain rpm but mine doesn't and continues to wind up well past 4000 rpm.

do you mean that it is roaring loudly all the time, or can you simply hear it spinning/drawing air? if it is the latter, then that is how they work. they spin whenever the engine is moving, however when the engine gets hot they engage more and spin a bit faster (and therefore are louder). if it is roaring all the time then the clutch may be stuffed or you may have an overheating issue (don't trust the stock gauge too much).

Plan-FAILURE Rising Star

Plan-FAILURE

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

do you mean that it is roaring loudly all the time, or can you simply hear it spinning/drawing air? if it is the latter, then that is how they work. they spin whenever the engine is moving, however when the engine gets hot they engage more and spin a bit faster (and therefore are louder). if it is roaring all the time then the clutch may be stuffed or you may have an overheating issue (don't trust the stock gauge too much).

Appreciate your thought mate...

My fan's behaviour is irratic to say the least. I guess the main things it does are...

1) Drive to work in the morning - I don't really hear it present which is consistant with the cooler morning temps so I know I don't have an overheating issue and throttle response is excellent, supporting the fact the fan isn't engaged fully.

2) Drive home from work - the fan will be spinning most of the time with it roaring its shit off all the way through the rev range, really annoying as you loose bulk power.

It seams as if once it kicks in, it stays kicked in...like its half broken or something.

The clutch will engage the fan but wont disengage it once it is "fully engaged". I've also noticed that before i had my IC piping fastened to the engine with a metal bracket, the fan had been rubbing on the IC piping and has shaved a bit of plastic of every vain. Could this friction have caused the clutch to wear?

Edited by plan-b
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

If the clutch is still free spinning with the engine off (and cold) then I dont see you having the problem of it "locking on" when it reaches temp. This would indicate that if the clutch was worn that it would not engage fully at all. But they do free spin normally

Please tell us a bit more info, firstly, What temps are you driving in when it is fully engaged. And secondly how hard are you driving it/how long are you sitting in hot traffic etc, and even what speeds you are doing

It may be a case of your car getting up to temp and then never getting below the temp in which the clutch fan engages. That would mean your clutch is operating fine its just the conditions are keeping it engaged.

Also, are you sure its not still rubbing? As I've said before I never even notice my fan come on, doesnt really seem to rob any power. And I wouldnt think that the RB20's are that inferior that there losing half there power because of a fan lol

Plan-FAILURE Rising Star

Plan-FAILURE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If the clutch is still free spinning with the engine off (and cold) then I dont see you having the problem of it "locking on" when it reaches temp. This would indicate that if the clutch was worn that it would not engage fully at all. But they do free spin normally

Please tell us a bit more info, firstly, What temps are you driving in when it is fully engaged. And secondly how hard are you driving it/how long are you sitting in hot traffic etc, and even what speeds you are doing

It may be a case of your car getting up to temp and then never getting below the temp in which the clutch fan engages. That would mean your clutch is operating fine its just the conditions are keeping it engaged.

Also, are you sure its not still rubbing? As I've said before I never even notice my fan come on, doesnt really seem to rob any power. And I wouldnt think that the RB20's are that inferior that there losing half there power because of a fan lol

Ok...

When its fully engaged the guage reads a bit under 2/3, when its not fully engaged it reads a tad over half - in other words it seems to be spot on.

I think you're right with the "car getting up to temp and then never getting below the temp in which the clutch fan engages".

I will have a look to see whether it is still rubbing on the IC piping but it is fastened by a piece of stainless, tig welded to the ic piping and bolted into the head (looks quite original and cool).

When the fan is fully engaged I drive conservatively and dont boost up that much, it is considerably less responsive and if I was to raise the revs the fan would spin all the way to 7000rpm.

Is it possible that the cooling capability of a fan with all its vains shaved down a bit would be less than one in new condition? And consequently this change in cooling capability is causing the engine to not drop that extra couple of degrees to disengage the fan?

We're getting there ay lol

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

your dropping the surface area available for shifting air by having it "rubbed down" by the intercooler pipes. So yes you have decreased the efficency of the fan. Is it enough to cause issues? Hard to say

Plan-FAILURE Rising Star

Plan-FAILURE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

your dropping the surface area available for shifting air by having it "rubbed down" by the intercooler pipes. So yes you have decreased the efficency of the fan. Is it enough to cause issues? Hard to say

Yeah tis ay. I might just go the davies craig route using the current shroud...

NSNPWR Rising Star

NSNPWR

Posted
Posted (edited)

go to the wreckers and get one off a nissan patrol, unbolt the fan and buy the clutch, the guys at the counter wont know wtf it is and charge you 20 bucks

Which model exactly? I know Patrols have RB30s but the 26 fan will not go on a 30 hub, tried it and the bolt holes dont line up. Also, the 30 fan/hub assembly will not clear the 26 top radiator hose in a 32 GTR either, tried that too.....

I know the 26 hub can be replaced, but to buy one Genuine Nissan is 100s...I got a 16 fan and have also incorporated the air con fan, so one is pushing, one is pulling, works well. Was alot cheaper than a new Genuine hub.

Edited by NSNPWR
jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

When its fully engaged the guage reads a bit under 2/3, when its not fully engaged it reads a tad over half - in other words it seems to be spot on.

If you're talking the factory gauge, then it basically stays in the middle from about 60C -> 115C - it won't raise past middle on the gauge until it passes well over 100C. Keep in mind that the gauge isn't linear at all - you really need something like CONSULT or a PowerPC to read the real temperature.

So that means if your gauge is moving past that center part - past where it gets to just after it's warmed up - then it sounds like you have a major overheating issue - and it's probably a good thing the clutch fan is kicking in as it could be stopping the car from completely overheating.

Have you had the radiator checked out at all?

t_revz Grand Master

t_revz

Posted
Posted

If you're talking the factory gauge, then it basically stays in the middle from about 60C -> 115C - it won't raise past middle on the gauge until it passes well over 100C. Keep in mind that the gauge isn't linear at all - you really need something like CONSULT or a PowerPC to read the real temperature.

So that means if your gauge is moving past that center part - past where it gets to just after it's warmed up - then it sounds like you have a major overheating issue - and it's probably a good thing the clutch fan is kicking in as it could be stopping the car from completely overheating.

Have you had the radiator checked out at all?

^^same. middle of the gauge for me= 70-90c. 2/3 for me is about 105

  • 5 months later...
Raysboostin Mentor

Raysboostin

Posted
Posted

just thought id post here instead of starting a new one. my stag has been doing exactly the same as plan failure's car. my fan spins freely when cold. it works normally most the time, but at higher rpm its not disenaging. its definately not over heating. does that mean its stuffed??

also to comment on what NSNPWR said, the r32 fan hub may not fit on a patrol rb30 water pump, but the fan hub from an RB25 neo most definately does. i just tried it on the 30 in my shed and it fits perfectly. so maybe the rb25 neo and patrol fans are the same???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. Was just wondering if you were having a small stroke or if there was some slur/gaf/inside joke that I wasn't aware of.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That was a fark up, it's Salamanca Place I was thinking of. And now I'm curious as to what potential slur/gaf I have caused with Salamander Road, ha ha!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Actually everyone on the roads was really well behaved. The only person that did any minor tailgating was a local hoon in a Turbo Focus. Unfortunately we weren't going the same way so there was no grand initial D touge battle. Lots of people pulled over and let me through. The amount of "Hey man nice car, omg skyline, nice 34 man woo" was suprising. Like really suprising. Like almost annoying. My partner was obviously surprised, she'd never seen anyone in the real world point out the car/like the car/want to chat about the car before, so to have like 3 people per day mention it was notable, I could finally say SEE? SOMEONE THINKS THEY'RE COOL. Everyone was also pretty suprised about the weather. Every day was dry and about ~13-14C. Mount Wellington had a sign that said they close the gates at 9pm and I was heading up there at about ~7:30. It was VERY apparent that conditions were getting significantly worse by the minute on the way up and down. The road on the mountain was terrible though, it's no driving road. I have various suspension related questions now. Luckily it was only about 20 minutes from where we were staying to the top of the mountain as said Google maps. We only had the 2 nights in Hobart. We went to the Farm Gate Market though which was really good - And went down to the Hastings Thermal springs/caves down there during the day. I'd definitely be up for going back again, so luckily there's a few more sights yet to see. Didn't get to do the west coast/queenstown/cradle mountain so this was supposed to be a 'scouting' trip anyway of sorts if I were to one day do/take part in/organize a more car-focused trip. As for the boat, it wasn't bad. Well it was bad, but not in the way you're thinking. We did the night trip which leaves at 6:45 (though you have to be there ~2 hours earlier) and arrives the next morning at about 6am. There is nothing to do on the ship. If you plan accordingly and bring a book/tablet/show to watch/charger you can just chill out, take some Travacalm and just sleep through it. The food there is an extremely basic buffet that costs $32 a plate, or $14 for a $3 pizza. The way back we had a travel kettle and a few different types of cup noodles and made our own tea/coffee in the room. This was a far superior way to do it. At the very least book one of the rooms with beds. I guess as we were in the off season we didn't have room mates. You get an option for rooms with 4 beds (2x bunks) or a room with just the two bottom beds. There's also some option for a deluxe queen bed but it's much pricer. We've been on sleeper trains in Asia before so we figured this is similar (and it was)
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Was that deliberate?
    • Kinkstaah
      gtr hood match gt/gtt front fenders?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      You just gotta be really, really, really clear and decisive with what you want your end product to be. 99% of people who want this conversion aren't "I want to run a 295 front tyre!" so they don't really need the widebody. They just want the OEM body to look a little less dumpy, so bonnet, bar, skirts job done with some camber, stretch, slam. It's when you want that, but then decide to pivot later you get big problems. See also if you're willing to get an all in one fibreglass bar, and you're willing to accept fibreglass problems like cracking the entire item on a driveway, instead of just a piece attached to the bottom, etc etc etc. Decide this all before buyin'.
×
×
  • Create New...