Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys how are you i 2 want buy this car for $4000 how much do you think it will cost 2 fix it. and is it worth to buy it thanks oh and come with all this

Damaged 1995 R33 Nissan Skyline GTST M Spec 5 SPD Manual - $4K ONO

Was involved in an accident recently, got T-boned on the passenger side where most of the damage is. Driver's side is OK

Engine, manual gearbox, driveline and diff is in good condition

Engine has done approximately 130K kms

Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch

GReddy MSpec FMIC

Apexi Power Intake

Bosch 023 fuel pump

Full exhaust from turbo to cat with high flow cat - 2.5" to 4" cannon muffler

Just Jap boost gauge

Note starcorps in the pics aren't included - car will come with stockies

post-73715-0-28996400-1296885571_thumb.jpg

post-73715-0-87219200-1296885616_thumb.jpg

post-73715-0-94558700-1296885638_thumb.jpg

Edited by streetboyz
  • Nope 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352922-should-i-buy-this-skyline-r33/
Share on other sites

You'd take a fair guess the rail would be stuffed - if so, forget it.

It'll cost more than the purchase price.

I thought you would have learnt after you were scammed 2 months ago. STOP looking for the "cheap deal".

Spend 8-10k, buy a proper car from someone you can see, and one that hasn't been destroyed.

No job + Skyline = bad idea.

$5k Skyline = another $5k to fix what's already broken and will break in future.

Buying damaged Skyline + fixing it = you'd better off buying one in OK condition for 2-3k more.

My advice, get a job first.

If you've only got 5k it would be cheaper to look at 180's,silvia's etc..

but no job no car dude... seriously.. a tank of petrol is about ~$75-80 for 300-400 kms on most skylines, as im guessing your first car will be your daily, depending on how much you use it, could be 1-2 tanks a week...

thought about public transport?

17+turbo+skyline+no job??? sounds like my tax money is going well at centrelink, sounds like bankstown here in syd ;)

but my advice, buy a normal car stock standard, not even a skyline, just some small car, cause i can bet that by the age of 20, any of your cars will have been involved in quite a few accidents.

if that money could buy experience in life, it would be a greater benefit

i use 2 have a skyline R33 but sold it because it was auto lol so now want R33 manual turbo and i only go out with the skyline friday to sunday so weekend use only lol

Last time I checked, Police Officers doesn't have weekends off.

Rule 1) Don't buy other people's problems

Rule 2) Don't buy a car you can't insure

Rule 3) Don't buy a car that you can't on-sell straight away

Rule 4) Accept the advice of those who've learnt from experience

Rule 5) Buy a car you'd be proud to show your new G/F's mother

Rule 5 - My Fiancee's mother has always called my car the "man bag" - because it goes quick, looks nice, but I have no boot and I never have more items in the car other then a laptop or uni bag.... :mellow:

Again.. Stop being a dumb arse.. if you didnt go looking to buy that too cheap nigerian R33 you wouldnt have been scammed of your first $4k.. do yourself a favour..

I'm starting to think you're a troll

Well off you go then - @ $4,000 for that car - it's a bargain.

It's $1,000 under your budget!

Your right, so lets budget this for the young fella

50$

stamp duty, but make sure you fill the transfer formout to say you only paid 800$ for the car

50$

for a slide hammer a rubber mallet and some sandpaper

100$

bog, you will need quite alot

20$

some white spray paint, 3 or 4 cans should do a proper good job

40$

for a good set of beer goggles so you think you panel beating effort was adequate.

10$

for some new windscreen wiper blades very important.

50$

for a really dodgey roadwaorthy, you may have to share some of your beer with him aswell, and dont be surprised should he ask for sexual favours, just oblige

Thats 320 big ones which leaves you 680 buckeroos, just enough to pay the 12 months rego and get stoned..

Dont worry about insurance thats only for people who crash their cars.

Tooo easy :thumbsup:

Edited by Arthur T3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...