Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$1250 for a bush bearing highflow is more like it - thats the mark

i bought my original journal bearing highflow - the Sliding Performance rb highflow - for $600 :)

no way Id pay triple that amount for a vq bush bearing highflow

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Interesting. Their website says that benefits are:

360 degrees Thrust bearing Inconel steel wheel and shaft Suitable for High Boost applications

Is the "Inconel" brand good?

a bit of light reading here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/

Edited by ironpaw

nah not yet...PM'ed him and awaiting response. Might call him tomorrow...

Can you give me the sizing and all other details I need when getting a quote? I think I'll just get the same size as yours...

Craig and Aaron got a 3071 equiv?

craig got a 3071 mushed into standard housings..

mines a stage 2 sierra combo which is the same size as craigs, except in Journal. my experience hasnt been great with BB. also dont go where i went.

hi guys i think i mentioned earlier

im looking at R.I.P.S to do a custom manifold and custome pipework around the engine so it flows better and is easier to work on , what size turbo do you reckomend for the stagea on stock internals ( that will get a upgrade soon enough )

looking at garret b turbos

hi guys i think i mentioned earlier

im looking at R.I.P.S to do a custom manifold and custome pipework around the engine so it flows better and is easier to work on , what size turbo do you reckomend for the stagea on stock internals ( that will get a upgrade soon enough )

looking at garret b turbos

I'll be interested to see these manifolds when they're done :thumbsup:

when you say core is that just a set that can be used to rebuild the standard turbo

or is that a full turbo replacment ?

if your doing the full manifold rebuil, you should be able to get the complete core and housings in there might take a while, but possible.

if your doing the full manifold rebuil, you should be able to get the complete core and housings in there might take a while, but possible.

well ill post pics up once i start my build , still planning stage as thats were you want to get things right

IMO.....if you change the turbo and manifolds you better off putting the turbo where the current airbox....that way you can get rid of any sharp turn's in the plumbing.

.....an even better idea would be to keep the current passenger side turbo with a new manifold and develop a drivers side bank manifold with turbo. That way you will be able to still use a turbo that fit's into the area and get a decent waist gate on......this might also involve a new custom plenum and FMIC though

P.S. Yes twins Scott!3some.gif

ASked Stao about a bush bearing hi flow with 360 washers...$960

Asked him about getting a 3071 core and this is what he said:

Well, there is no point going for 3071 CHRA in your high flow as the rear housing of it is already small and our customized will produce more power then the 3071 profile. There will be no difference in response based on factory housings, plus bush bearing is a more relaible setup then the ball bearing setup. The 3071 high flow cost $1550 AUD, you need to change all water, and oil lines to suit that CHRA.

The factory housing is not big enough to flow 350rwkws. The max we can that that to is 300rwkws on a manual, Auto will be about 25KW behind plus it won't handle any thing relaiably above 230rwkws. I would recommend you to use our standard high flow option with a high pressure actuator to achieve that goal.

Regards

Stao

hmmm stick with bush bearing i guess?

Even the HKS kit uses the stock manifolds, and they obviously flow well enough to kill a built gearbox so unless you are putting a manual behind it soon, it would be a complete waste of time.

A gt3071 core stuffed into the factory housings is good for 250-270 with the right mods, (intake and exhaust)and wont be too laggy, you will need to spend 3-4k on the auto to handle that sort of power, and it still doesnt hold much more than 300 I have found.

IMO.....if you change the turbo and manifolds you better off putting the turbo where the current airbox....that way you can get rid of any sharp turn's in the plumbing.

.....an even better idea would be to keep the current passenger side turbo with a new manifold and develop a drivers side bank manifold with turbo. That way you will be able to still use a turbo that fit's into the area and get a decent waist gate on......this might also involve a new custom plenum and FMIC though

P.S. Yes twins Scott!3some.gif

Why don't you just go out at get a set of manifolds from and APS G35 TT kit?

Even the HKS kit uses the stock manifolds, and they obviously flow well enough to kill a built gearbox so unless you are putting a manual behind it soon, it would be a complete waste of time.

A gt3071 core stuffed into the factory housings is good for 250-270 with the right mods, (intake and exhaust)and wont be too laggy, you will need to spend 3-4k on the auto to handle that sort of power, and it still doesnt hold much more than 300 I have found.

what are you running scotty ? and how does it perform any cons?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...