Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is an RB being built at the moment that will be a first in the world!

Cant say too much but what i can say that it has been engineered and built here in Australia.

:ninja:

But if had a billion dollars i would have the bottom end made from titanium :)

You dont need a billion to have a Ti bottom end but you do need a lot :)

Ti rods are simple enough to get (with enough money haha). I know one guy who wants Ti pistons, thats going to cost him. Id hate to know what a Ti crank costs and even then how effective it would be. The scary thing is, he's serious

Noel you big old banana bender everyones definition of "Ultimate" is different so it will be virtually impossible to make the ultimate setup, for example rwd vs awd, singles vs twins etc - as you know its the entire package that makes the setup not just a good bottom end and a fancy head :)

Thinking about it, you probably could use titanium for alot of those parts but everything would probably need to be casidium coated to work properly. Might stand half a chance then.

That is right though, everyone has a different idea on ultimate.

Noel you big old banana bender everyones definition of "Ultimate" is different so it will be virtually impossible to make the ultimate setup, for example rwd vs awd, singles vs twins etc - as you know its the entire package that makes the setup not just a good bottom end and a fancy head :)

I dont think so Steve. all drive v rear drive doesnt enter the equation imo and neither does the single/twin debate.

For the sake of the argument lets put a hp limit on it, say 750 hp.

Every man and his dog would prefer the one with the fattest curve making the most torue early and the quickest spool, It aint rocket science.

The cock floppers building 1000 hp plus engines for no reason other than to look good on a dyno are just that.

The lower hp engine would probably make more power under the curve (average power) anyhoos and be a far more driveable combo.

Stevo - Ti Crank wouldnt work, Ti has no twist strength, its strong as f**k if you grab either end and bend it like a banana, but if you grabbed the ends and twisted they are no where near as strong as Steel

Ok well here's what i was getting at; im building another motor now for my GTR (no, nothings wrong with the current one), and im doing a spare head for it aswel just for the sake of trying something no one has done with an RB head before. (dont ask specs or details, will release when ready)

Now, its twin low mounts, target power at crank is 750hp same as your target Noel but also like you the fattest low end and midrange possible with an RB based block BUT still retaining the RB "revvyness". The first head is what one place call ultimate and the second is a totally different direction.

End of the day someone might come along and think its no good being on twins for example - cant please everybody so may aswel make what you think the ultimate is and be happy with that IMO :)

Ok well here's what i was getting at; im building another motor now for my GTR (no, nothings wrong with the current one), and im doing a spare head for it aswel just for the sake of trying something no one has done with an RB head before. (dont ask specs or details, will release when ready)

Now, its twin low mounts, target power at crank is 750hp same as your target Noel but also like you the fattest low end and midrange possible with an RB based block BUT still retaining the RB "revvyness". The first head is what one place call ultimate and the second is a totally different direction.

End of the day someone might come along and think its no good being on twins for example - cant please everybody so may aswel make what you think the ultimate is and be happy with that IMO :)

VCam inlet and exhaust?

You already can buy them and they are stupidly expensive. Last I saw it was something like $1200-$1500 per rod. If someone made them as an off the shelf item the price may be better.

If you had lots of money you would just get alloy rods and use them. Lighter and can handle the 750hp range with 10,000rpm indefinitely, might even work out abit cheaper then titanium rods.

There would be a market for them if they were cheap, however that will be very hard to achieve since titanium itself is very exxy. Its a shame, because titanium for the most part is very cool.

^^ Yes but you will be replacing alloy rods more frequently than ti rods if you plan on turning them past 10,000rpm.

Btw Ti 6AL4V billet rods can be had from $650 u.s each for small block chevy sizes & smaller.

But good alloy rods like BME's would be excellent in a street engine..only downside is size comparison to a steel or ti rod, which can be a pain when clearancing the block or girdle.

i think not Jack, As impressive as that graph is how would it look with another 3/400 cc hanging off the arse end.

if i was going to build my motor again, which i dont realy plan on doing or what to do (costs to much) this is what i would do.

either nitto 3.2l or os giken 3.15l bottom end

full cleaned and prepped 26 head with hks v cam pro

GTRS twin turbos or trust t617s or what ever they are called

manifolds all port matched and that crap

nismo or hypertune plenum

dry sumped

hollinger box and upgraded diffs with good ratios.

i think the setup would go quite well, good response, good power and hopefully pretty reliable

If you could buy Ti rods, would there be a market for them and what would be a realistic price?

nath, pauter do good Ti rods at not too bad a price. but for me alloy rods are a good option. cheper than Ti and lighter too. no where near as strong so may need replacement every now and then in big rpm/big power engines (but i'm talking like 1000hp drag engines etc). the only downside is as someone mentioned they need to be physically larger to be strong enough which can cause problems in a 26 where you don't exactly have a shitload of rod to block clearance to start with...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...