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By target, do you mean higher than your actuator's spring rating? Try running a vac line directly from the boost source off the intercooler piping or wherever you're getting it from to the actuators. Completely remove the boost controller from the equation. You said with the standard boost solenoid in place, it made 8psi? If that's the rating of your actuators, I dare say that's probably the issue. While your turbos aren't HUGE, they're certainly flowing a decent amount of air and therefore exhaust even at that low boost, so I wouldn't be surprised if it was just simply overcoming the wastegate flap and pushing it open.

I've done that, and it runs the same 8psi @ 4k

If thats the case, does that mean I need a stronger actuator spring?

Wait, there's one thing you haven't told us: what is FULL BOOST? By that I mean, what does it make when you have the boost controller plugged in @6000rpm?

If you have 8psi actuators (that's a problem in itself, way too weak) and running it at say, 20psi through the boost controller, then the boost controller settings are the problem. I would assume that's a gain setting of some kind, sounds like it's letting the boost come on very very slowly after it starts having to bleed air out, which is causing it to climb from 8psi to full boost at a snail's pace.

So lemme get this straight, your mate has dropped $10-15k on an engine which is making ~700hp and he's got you poking around under the bonnet trying to diagnose a boost issue even though you're clearly not qualified and, with all due respect, probably are not the right person for the job?

Is your mate a total moron?! A $15k engine and he's not taking it straight to a well regarded tuned who is properly qualified and equipped to diagnose a problem which has the potential to destroy you mates big dollar build?

Dude! I'd recommend keeping that bonnet shut tight until youget it to one of the well regarded tuning shops. Seriously, if you think there is something wrong you'd be mad not to get it seen to by an absolute professional.

Well that doesn't make sense.....

There is NO WAY a boost controller can cause boost to come on LATER.

NO. WAY.

What if the boost controller is leaking boost? That would probably cause it to come on later, wouldn't it?

more info needed

apart from running a pair of Garrett GT 2860 - 7, we know nothing about your car.

did you buy the car like this???

what exhaust is on the car?

does it have a stock cat ?------- if so it could be severely blocked!!!!

what intake is in the car filters could be very blocked!!!

start with the simple shit

if you think cat could be blocked of has very small cat back exhaust unbolt it just before the cat and go for a quick drive (don't get caught by the cops though!!!!!)

Ok,

Trying to run 15 psi, the turbos were installed when the ones on the car when I bought it died.

I have an apexi power intake, hks super dragger cat back, factory dumps and an x force cat

So potentially the EBC is the problem, when it needs to begin bleeding air to raise boost above the actuator's base spring resistance. Like I speculated, this would be some kind of gain setting.

I'd say as others already have, time to take it to someone such as Yavuz @ Unigroup and have him fiddle with the EBC.

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