Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes, just waiting for parts. also cant decide what ecu to go with. the hr electric magnetic retarder exhaust vtc and 4 cam sensors seems to be abit of an issue. being a 2008 engine youd think that someone apart from motec has the software to run it propperly.

Heya T04,

I've helped a mate adapt a VH45 into a 33GTR utilising the std 4WD system with a 300ZX clutch/flywheel and a few other custom bits.

The project wasn't completed due to other priorities (we were finishing off the gearbox>engine cast adapter plate), but we think we had it nutted out. We don't know of any other 4WD VH45s around

Maybe we'll catch up some time for a chat?

Mark :)

yes, but not awd at this stage. dont have the cash to cut up a r34getrag to see if i can adapt it..

I decided a 33 gtr box was the best option, I picked one up for $300 with a transfer case so I will see how I go modifying it to suit the VQ35. Hopefully the VQ flywheel/pressure plate and the 33 gtr clutch will match well enough.

i had a perfectly good ppg 5 speed for that. but the 3.69:1 front diff ratio is the hurdle. if there was a 4.11 availabe id go awd straight of the bat.

yes they will. 240/250mm cluches are interchangable. so using a 300zed clutch you will be all good.

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

WELL heres an update.

got my twin carbon extreme clutch for a 370z with upgraded AP style concentric slave cylinder.

i was on the fense about putting a transaxle in it. ie like the v8 supercars. so i have been busy saving. (wasnt keen on the "$12,000" for complete axles either)

after many back and forth emails and questions i was ready to get an albins st6 transaxle. (after being quoted usd$46,000 for an EMCO gt46 transaxle(rolex series supplier)

and i have decided not to go the transaxle route. to expensive. would be a $40,000 exersise.

so i contacted hewland. the IGTC six speed with drop gears was a nice gearbox, magnesium casing, but with no available bellhousing it was a no go. (i dont like the idea of dodgy adapter plates etc etc.

so i have got a holinger 370z bellhousing, a m3 motorsports holinger 170mm spacer (to move the bulk rearward)and will be getting a nice modena engineering MV8S dry sumped 6 speed transmission. but it has a 1:1 6th. so i need a diff..

so i am in the process of instaling a ford mustang cobra 8,8" aluminium irs diff with a wavetrac lsd. $150 for a ratio change is not bad. with ratios from low 2's to 5+

i have to send my ecu back to the uk for an update to the closed loop air shifter semi auto option. (good thing about the ecu is because of its capabilities getting a fully auto air shifter connected is only going to cost 1500 bucks. as apposed to the 5k+ for a stand alone geartronics/shiftec unit. and its all in the 1 box for a super tidy wiring job

pics will be made soon i promise. just have to make room in the gararge to start modding :)

  • 1 year later...
  • 9 months later...

hey all, been a while. ive been plodding along with this build.

post-19586-0-49124200-1448694179_thumb.jpg

post-19586-0-94732000-1448694181_thumb.jpg

post-19586-0-01573700-1448694184_thumb.jpg

post-19586-0-41083200-1448694186_thumb.jpg

still got to make inlet manifold with garrett 750hp water to air intercooler built in (i have all the bits but havent welded them up yet.). and finalise exhaust manifolds to the twin EFR7163'S

build dump pipe once both manifolds are done. (sofar the header pipes are within 1cm of each other,should sound mad.)

it will hug the a/c compressor and go under the engine between the mount and x member.

many more pics to do and updates will happen more often. i plan on getting alot done over xmas. (pajero evolution has soaked up some time and money lately.

  • Like 1

test fitted the engine again. i have about 1" max bonnet clearance. i will have to shorten the trumpets a little. i want to raise the engine abit so i fit a sump extension.

drivers side header is just on the inner guard. to be adjusted with hammer...

passenger side header fowled on the chassis rail.

rotated collector (nice having slip joints) and have to re-make no4 header pipe,

post-19586-0-55551500-1448785880_thumb.jpg

post-19586-0-30030600-1448785899_thumb.jpg

post-19586-0-64538300-1448785911_thumb.jpg

post-19586-0-14069900-1448785922_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...