Rb30/26Head Or A Rb28 Stroker

[TristantheBaker]

Budget?

This isn't really an issue, I'm going to leave the rb26 alone until I've got enough cash to do the rb30/26 build or stroke the 26..

At the moment I'm trying to source a balanced rb30 crank and it seems difficult so I'm starting to lean more towards the Stroker for the 2.6L.

Edited March 5, 2011 by TristantheBaker

[TristantheBaker]

Budget?

Not really an issue, I'll just keep spending until I feel that it's finished.

Leaning towards the 2.8L stroker though...

Trying to source a forged balanced rb30 crank.. not looking good.

/edit - Sorry double post.

Edited March 5, 2011 by TristantheBaker

[Piggaz]

Careful?!

Hahaha pussy!!!

Oh ok maybe in reverse hahahahahaha

Hahaha. Yeah. Just steer the car out of the driveway in reverse with the throttle..... Sooo much easier then turning te steering wheel!!!!!

[jangles]

This isn't really an issue, I'm going to leave the rb26 alone until I've got enough cash to do the rb30/26 build or stroke the 26..

At the moment I'm trying to source a balanced rb30 crank and it seems difficult so I'm starting to lean more towards the Stroker for the 2.6L.

well building a twin cam 30 is going to be more expensive than buying a GTST,

also, you dont just buy a balanced RB30 crank, you get it balanced to your rods,pistons,balancer, flywheel for it to be balanced properly

[PaulosECR33]

maybe you should buy the car.. which ever one you want first and see how it goes instead of having all these plans with no car to put them into.... you may be suprised with how well you can make it go by just rebuilding the rb26 with forgies etc and -5s or something would save you heaps of cash... once again whats your power goal?

[R31Nismoid]

This isn't really an issue, I'm going to leave the rb26 alone until I've got enough cash to do the rb30/26 build or stroke the 26..

At the moment I'm trying to source a balanced rb30 crank and it seems difficult so I'm starting to lean more towards the Stroker for the 2.6L.

There is always a budget. You wouldn't have a skyline if you didn't,.

10k?

20k?

30k?

[TristantheBaker]

There is always a budget. You wouldn't have a skyline if you didn't,.

10k?

20k?

30k?

30k

maybe you should buy the car.. which ever one you want first and see how it goes instead of having all these plans with no car to put them into.... you may be suprised with how well you can make it go by just rebuilding the rb26 with forgies etc and -5s or something would save you heaps of cash... once again whats your power goal?

At the moment I've got a holiday booked in Japan for 3 months on a working visa, so I'll be getting the car imported, buying it over there, nice and clean, and having the piece of mind that I'd be the first Australian owner..

My powergoal is about 380~400awkw @ 20psi.. with the option of dropping the boost down for every day driving, I just like the idea of having the power there if I want to eat a v8.

well building a twin cam 30 is going to be more expensive than buying a GTST,

also, you dont just buy a balanced RB30 crank, you get it balanced to your rods,pistons,balancer, flywheel for it to be balanced properly

Don't want a gtst, I want to be able to drive this car when it rains as the car I have now wont be nice to drive in the wet as of buying new 315/75/16 tyres

Edited March 5, 2011 by TristantheBaker

[Trozzle]

ITT: derp

[Galois]

Which v8? The aussie built ones certainly shouldn't be much trouble for an rb with an exhaust and extra boost. The european ones on the other hand.

I understand a little what you mean in the wet. You can drive slowly and controlled but there's no extra acceleration if you want it. I keenly remember being unable to keep up with various kia shitboxes and falcodores in my gtt, heading uphill from some traffic lights. Had 265 nankangs on the back and no grip at all, could barely take off without wheelspin.

[TristantheBaker]

Which v8? The aussie built ones certainly shouldn't be much trouble for an rb with an exhaust and extra boost. The european ones on the other hand.

I understand a little what you mean in the wet. You can drive slowly and controlled but there's no extra acceleration if you want it. I keenly remember being unable to keep up with various kia shitboxes and falcodores in my gtt, heading uphill from some traffic lights. Had 265 nankangs on the back and no grip at all, could barely take off without wheelspin.

I should really of said Aus/US v8s.

In saying that, it would be nice to be able to take on a BMW F10 M5....

I also don't mean, just beat them, I mean thrash.. Want to be able to switch between a nice low boost daily driving map, to a gutsy track one..

I haven't even looked in to tyre sizes yet, but I imagine I will have the guards rolled and get the widest ones possible. Love the look of Rays TE37s..

I used to drive a forester turbo, loved that car, amazing in the wet..

Yea I just don't particularly want a car which I have to drive slowly in the wet, I get pissed off at people on the road who drop 20kms when it starts to rain, yes it's safe, but ...stressful....

[Galois]

The wider the rear tyres, the harder it is to pump the water from under the tyre outwards, which leads to less wet grip. Also choosing a good brand will make a difference, kumhos or federal 595s have a pretty good reputation.

[N1GTR]

*backs away from thread*

[Trozzle]

What on earth is with people and wanting different maps?! Seriously, drive a high (ish) powered car for a few days in the dry and wet and THEN come back here. If you still think you need 2 maps/boost settings, you're a bloody idiot who'd soon have found himself sideways into a tree with that kind of leadfoot incompetence.

[NickR33]

best boost controller is the peddle underneath your right foot... I run 21psi rain, hail or shine:)

also why so keen buying in Japan? you can find just as good condition cars in Aus... and we don't drive them in snow regions where they put salt on the roads...

[PaulosECR33]

why pay all the costs involved and all the trouple of finding and in importing it yourself.. have you looked around to see if any of the import companies will cater your needs... im sure there would be a couple that sell r32 gtrs....

and do you really think 380 - 400awkw AWD will have much grip in the wet... an aussie v8 might beat you due to its lack of power giving it more traction... its always about you right foot

my gtst would have absolutely demolished my maloo when i did my first round of modification with just a 11 psi tune a fmic and a good exhaust. 4.11 gears a lighter car, smooth to drive and easier to control, but if your set on a gtr then go for it ans good luck.. still say a built rb26 with -5s will be enough....

do you want to drift it or street race it... cos its sorta sounds like you want a car that can do everything

Edited March 7, 2011 by PaulosECR33

[t04z]

Get a gtr and drift it something different people tripout when they see a gtr drifting. Oh and rb30 ftw

[discopotato03]

A heavy car with an engine a bit too small in std form to make it a nice street car . Nissans sollution was to fit lowish gearing and a peaky engine because the only way to make the power was at higher revs . They had an agenda , they wanted to develop a homologation special and sized the engine to fit in a desirable weight class which is fine for the stripped out race cars . Not so good when you throw in air con/fast glass/sound deadening/sound system/and 101 other things to make a road car habitable .

Sorry people but you can't escape the fact that RB26's lack low down punch in a tonne and a half of GTR Skyline and the only practicle solutions are to 1)alter the state of tune to put the torque where its most usefull or 2) build in more cubes of which an RB30 short is the easiest route .

These cars are not true all wheel drives because they drive their front differentials with basically a motorbike clutch - not a center differential like most AWDs do . When you have a center diff , particularly with some sort of side to side "differential limiting devise" you can limit the differentiation and make them drive the front and rear diffs all the time and when necessary at different speeds .

It's not difficult to understand where Nissans engineers , back in the late 1980's , wanted to have a RWD based car with RWD handling characteristics and throw in a bit of front drive when the rear contact patches weren't quite enough .

BUT they started with a car that already a bit front heavy and proceeded to fit a transfer case/front drivshafts/front differential/half shafts/live front hubs and it got a lot heavier - and forward in the car .

Now weight is the enemy of performance because it pulls the power to weight ratio in the wrong direction , when you can't increase the engines capacity you have to increase the existing ones state of tune and then it loses that nice torquey drive it sedately feel . Not a problem in a race car but no one drives those on the street , they drive the porked out version with the number plates .

This is the reason why I think people are talking up 707160-9/GTSS turbos , they work better than factory ones and you can still impoove other things like heads cams exhausta etc and not lose anything nice but gain it . Sure it may not allow you to have 20 pounds of boost at 8000 revs but it gives you the all important torque down where its needed most between say 3 and 6.5 . I think people need to lose the idea that a lot of boost and a lot of revs is pig heaven , it may be dramatic but its a tiresome pain in the ass to live with unless driven flat out - like race cars aim to . You see cars on the street over done , cranky cammy no guts under 4000 with atrocious driving manners and horrific fuel consumption . Not surprisingly cops love them because they're easy prey and while you may out run them you won't outrun radio waves .

This probably sounds negative and not the right place to find fault with here ar SAu . The fact is that all these cars are what they are and its often impossible to iron out limitations the manufacturer built in - no matter how much money you throw at them .

I know where your at , I spent for the times lots of money trying to re engineer cars and it just runs you broke . I have three cars and they are very different and span from 25 to 11 yrs old , the GTS25T is 14 yrs old and the only Nissan and 2wd/RWD . The old 86 Subie L Series RX Turbo I had converted to AWD which was a quantam leap , but it made 120 Hp std and weighted 1070 Kg . Its possibly 140 hp/1060kg now and its at a point where throwing money at it is pointless . I had big ideas for the R33 but it can spin the wheels with mild mods so why push further .

I only drive on the street so what happens out 120 odd clicks is irrelevant - provided they can cruise nicely at that speed . To get the almighty rush up to 120 from rest is difficult because it forces you to try harder to make usable torque down low and get good traction at the same time . Suddenly you don't need a 4 inch exhaust or a billiard table sized intercooler , the turbo can be a similar configuration to the original one and the engine can be almost as smooth as a fresh factory one . You can afford to buy fuel AND food AND have a social life and not attract much attention from the whallopers though a lot of that depends on how you drive on the street - in anything .

I don't mind GTRs but unless really really rich I wouuldn't own one , I ended up with an Evo VI GSR and its the best Jap performance I could find out of the box in its 99-2000 era . Its a lot of car and because its rock stock factory standard , ok light Enkei wheels , I know the base line and know what can be gotten out of these cars for nothing like 10-30K .

This time around I don't aim to lose anything down low Mitsy built into these cars and to do this going from 206 to 240 odd at all four shouldn't be too hard . It weighs 1360 std and lost 10 of unsprung weight in just wheels .

At the end of the day I reckon you should buy the car that most suits you needs in std trim because the last mods are easiest and cheapest .

Your call , A .

[gtr fan]

This time around I don't aim to lose anything down low Mitsy built into these cars and to do this going from 206 to 240 odd at all four shouldn't be too hard . It weighs 1360 std and lost 10 of unsprung weight in just wheels .

240awkw out of a GTR is just a matter of 1 bar boost, computer and exhaust. Maybe $3K and you lose none of the bottom end. Sure its a bit doughy under 3,000 rpm but its not enough to warrant your above post.

You can also reduce the unsrung weight of GTR by using light weight alloy wheels just as you have done.

It sounds like your saying just because GTR's carry a bit of extra weight people shouldn't waste time with them unless they are going to stroke the engine? I maybe wrong but can not make out much else from your post.

I love so many different makes, models of various cars of all ages so I am not just GTR biased.

[R31Nismoid]

You can't argue EVO isn't a winner though. A 9 is cheaper than a 34 and will make 220awkw with just exhaust and a flash tune/boost increase and a cooler piping upgrade.

No GTR with stock turbos will be as fast.

[bubba]

You can't argue EVO isn't a winner though. A 9 is cheaper than a 34 and will make 220awkw with just exhaust and a flash tune/boost increase and a cooler piping upgrade.

No GTR with stock turbos will be as fast.

All good and well if you like driving small, front wheel drive based (east-west engine?? bleagh!) hairdressers cars!