Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wow, just saw this thread. It was an epic read and your 33's interior will be the best ive seen! The flocking and retrim look awesome. You must be pretty wrapped with the outcome so far. If it was me, I would be more impatient to get it all back together and running. But hey, doing it properly is better than rushing it.

btw, your handbrake has a foreskin.. LOL!

Cheers, yeah I know, a few others have said that as well, I don't really care as it looks better then it did before.

08-12-12

Since 5th December my tuner has had my car to install the Clutch, and my Oil Relocation. Went round there today to help bleed the clutch, he installed a HEL Braided Clutch Line I also supplied as where he wanted to mount my oil filter, there was a heap of Clutch Pipe work which we could remove with the Braided Clutch Line.

I had emailed Otomoto earlier the week before as they are the OS Giken distributor in Australia, and was told I need a 12mm Sleeve Release Bearing which I bought and supplied for the clutch install. Install went fine with the bolt heads measuring 8.8mm and my tuner taking them down to 8mm as per the Instructions. However he didn't take take the 4mm off the candle stick/front housing which the Instructions say, and OS Giken say which we found out Saturday morning when my Tuner rang Otomoto with a few concerns he had.

They told him to ring Western Clutch and Brake, which funnily enough had rebuilt my clutch sometime before I had bought it, and they said they have never removed the 4mm when they install, and to check a few things to see if the clutch was working etc, which we did. It turned out with the Clutch pedal down and gearbox in 1st gear, you couldn't spin the tailshaft by hand, or with leverage....damn :(, so a bit of adjustment with the Pedal rod inside the car and we got that working, so all god now!? Nope!

Start the engine, clutch in, go for any gear and it is knotchy and grinds, DAMN IT!! You can still get it into gears every now and then. When going for first with the clutch in the car starts moving forward as you try and "force" it in....so at the moment getting gears is a pain in the ass, but not impossible so I drove it home about 20km away from the workshop. Was a very interesting drive at the least, hard to get gears, and sometimes when going for 4th would grind the gears like it was trying to go in reverse. If I had to stop, I would have to try and take off in a higher gear if I couldn't get first on the down-shift while slowing down, generally it was a take off in 2nd gear which was made interesting with the twin plate and revving it up to compensate.

So we are going to try and sort it out this week, my tuner will hopefully be on the phone again to Western Brake and Clutch sometime Monday. So overall not too bad, car is moveable, just a pain in the ass, oil pressure and temp gauges now wired up with the oil filter relocation and an oil change. Just need to sort out the clutch issues and then a TUNE!!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I know I have been saying I'll upload photos of the Dash, etc....well I finally got off my ass and here they are.

IMG_20121209_145442.jpg

IMG_20121209_145458.jpg

My Tuner got the clutch all sorted...took awhile but he got there. Lots of small issues, that were a PITA as you didn't know about them till the gearbox was in.

For a highend brandname clutch lots of modifying and special bearings etc to get it to work. But once it is in and working, a really good clutch.

So today - 21-12-12, on the World is apparently supposed to end, and the day my Tuner closes for Christmas Holidays, we threw it on the Dyno :)

Here is the final power she made :D

Dyno%20Run%2021-12-12%20edit.jpg

Just need to sort out the boost drop and a few boost spike issues now, and I'll boost her up some more...Real fun to drive now, even though it is slightly more powerful then the orginal engine, she produces lots more torque :D

Merry Christmas/Holidays and Happy New Year Everyone :)

  • 2 months later...

I just browsed every single page of this thread!

Fantastic job mate , you just got yourself a fan there!

Great build an Decent amount of power and looks.

Thanks mate, there will be more power coming along soon, and hopefully more looks too :)

Not too much has happened to the R33 lately.

Went away for the Australia Day weekend, car began making a weird noise - like it had an external gate, got progressively worse and and annoying from about 4k RPM and became a too much familiar sound. The sound of a blown Turbo Manifold Gasket, since rego was running out soon I decided to leave it off the road so I could fix it. I bought all the gaskets etc I needed from Nissan - from Nissan as they are Metal, Ripped the Turbo off and found that the gaskets were fine. The bolts holding it to the manifold must have loosened off enough to allow the gas to escape between the gaskets and the spacer plate.

Since the rego had expired and I had the turbo off, I have decided to Ceramic Coat the Rear housing - which I am awaiting to get back, I may also have a new dump pipe made up so it has some flex in it so it can stop the bolts loosening off all the time, or have the current one modified.

Also thinking a new FMIC with piping, not sure if I'll also go with my original idea of a Plazmaman Plenum or not.

I have also bought a Nismo 1.5 way Diff second hand for $750, which will also go in while it is off the road, and I have my eyes on a brake upgrade which will happen later down the path, can anyone say 350mm Brembos!? :D

  • 5 weeks later...

It has been awhile since my last update.

I have had the Turbo Rear housing Ceramic Coated at Ceramic Coat Australia - Pacemaker Headers, Dropped the Front housing off to A Class Metal Finishers to be polished, which I will be picking up later this week.

I bit the Bullet and bought some Evo 9 Brembos, and they arrived today, they look great :), I cant wait to get them on the car

Brembo%20Arrival.jpg

I also had my Headlights Retrofitted with HID Projectors by Loudz Creations

HID%201.JPG

HID%202.JPG

HID%203.JPG

HID%204.JPG

HID%205.JPG

HID%206.JPG

HID%207.JPG

HID%208.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...