Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thought it may interest you if you haven't started the rebuild on your current engine. The engine you were talking about earlier in the post (VK56DE) has been listed on EBay with a Buy it now of US$2500, 2006 build and only 5000 miles on it.

Look up EBay item no- 130092922424, not sure on cost of shipping it to Oz but worth asking about anyway.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 390
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Cheers mate, had a look at that but im back at uni now so funds are limited.

Ran a 10.17 @ 131mph on weekend blew the head gasket... it seems we've reached the limits of the stock head gaskets.. i have some coppers sitting on my desk.. the block is off to be oringed all the good stuff from the old heads will be changed over to the new heads.. just trying to track down a set of rings and bearings and it will be back to the track.

Also the new torque convertor is flaring to something like 6000 rpm and therefore running very inefficiently once this is sorted i can forsee easy 9's, bring on the winternats.

Edited by NA_R33
  • 2 months later...

Quick update on the shitter.. block is back from Mendhams, rings and ring grooves in place, heads should be ready next week, there also getting a tickle up while at the machinest, just about to order rings and bearings and should have the stally back next week, so within a month she should be up and running again, bring on the 9's

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Just finished reading this whole thread.

That is one awesome machine. U have done what most of wish we could do (extreme power and times with different engine swap).

Well done mate. Really looking forward to seeing what this thing has in store for us into the future.

Chris

he makes it all sound so easy doesn't he?

i've grown up with this car and seen everything john has done to it, there's been a lot of R&D, money, time and effort put into it.

easily competing with the top dollar dragsters in australia with a two man team (john & mechanic) and with a realistic budget!

good luck with 9s dude, will be there when you do!

No no that was quite correct, that was with a full exhaust, running ~5-6psi on 50/50 Pulp/Toluene, shes had a few changes since then :(

Cheers for the comments guys, Much appreciated :(

Rings and bearings should hopefully be here this week, so it looks like we may get a run at Jambo after all, should be interesting.

Im hoping to mate, i wanna come up for it, see u dip into the 9s been a long road since that week in ur pop's shed when we put that motor lol. its an animal now, remember u coming to grips with it being an auto to lol

Yeah for sure dude, i think were gonna be camping out there and when were not ur welcome to stay at mine and the trailer is plenty big while were out there.

Well i got ahold of some hard blok, so the block will be grout filled.. should hopefully have it running sunday, have been some delays with getting the crank ground... the workshop doing it couldnt find any specs on it, but thats all sorted now..

ooooo now were talking full race spec build

half filled or fully filled?

thats gonna need some massive water pump and hi flowing head

you ceramic coating the water galleries for better flow and less cavitation?

Hahaha, its coming its coming, the machinests have beens stuffing around with the crank and block its... still not done, should pick it up tomorrow, wish we had the machines to do it ourselves at our workshop, one day....

Its going to be a full fill and the water will just sit in the heads, it hasnt run a water pump for a while. It runs for less than a minute each pass... its fire it up, burn out, run and shutdown.

With no water pump the temps are no higher than 92 degreese (celcius) shut down at the line and creaps too 110 after heatsoak... Running methanol which cools intake charge temps and a colder combustion (to my understanding?).

for the others,

methanol (100%) is often used in anti-freeze due to its cooling nature, (low freezing point at -80ºC ish)

like you said it is more flammable with a lower flash point:

methanol flash point is around 10-11ºC

and petrol, depending on its mixture would be around the 40-50ºC mark i would guess?

just a bit of background in case anyone was wondering why he's doing what he's doing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
×
×
  • Create New...