Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

was just wanting to see if anyone knew anything about this GTR or seen it.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?Cr=1&R=9489616&keywords=&trecs=4&__sid=12E46D0BCB77&__Ns=pCar_LastModifiedDate_DateTime|1&__Qpb=true&__Nne=15&SearchAction=N&seot=1&__N=1216 1282 4294963846 1622 4294963593 4294950656 4294804078&silo=1011

Im from adelaide and am considering travelling to sydney to check it out but the last few times ive done this its ended up with me flying back home empty handed and paying for flights...soo if anyone has any info on it so i can save my time and money it would be much appreciated.

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357765-can-anyone-help-with-this-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

sorry I don't personally know the car but from the pics it looks pretty nice. the only thing that rings a small alarm bell with me is the "$1000 of resin work to restore the bonnet". that's an odd one. the VSII carbon bonnets are very nicely made and come painted on top and bare carbon underneath (with the vent also bare). not sure what happened to it that it needed a $1,000 repair job?

I'm also a bit suspect on the 49,500 kms. I have seen a few R34 GTRs with that many kms. yes they are 10 years old, but a VSII with 50,000kms should have very firm seat bolsters still, that one looks a bit worn (though it could be from an overweight driver, a heavy driver will wear the bolster out much quicker than usual).

all in all I'd say if you're after a VSII in white then it's definitely worth checking out.

Just by looking at the NACA duct, I can tell it has fresh clear on it. The factory clear is not that shiny and it does fade and crack around that area. Why Nissan did not paint the duct with same colour as the car is beyond me. Perhaps they have a good reason for this.

Like Beer has mentioned, the bolster would be a concern as well. A big guy would definitely accelerate the wear and tear.

Personally, I would never judge a car by it's kms, especially an import and more so, a GT-R. Most of them seems to have super low kms which is total bollocks. Only a small percentage would be genuine and would believe it more if it comes with history.

Looks like the RH front guard has been removed as the bolt heads appear to have little or not paint in them, but it might just be the picture.

A white engine bay is good to inspect. The more kms she's travelled, the more "off white" colour you can observe. You can also tell straight away if there's any repairs done because a newer white respray will never match the old colour unless the entire engine bay has been resprayed. I've seen it once before where the whole bay was resprayed and was just too shiny to be a factory job.

Bit of surface rust on the rear diffuser support bracket. Mine has no signs of rust and it's still original. I would look further underneath for potential rust issues.

^ ^ ^ well said!

OP you certainly have experts here in Richard and Eugene to guide you re: possible rust, damage, signs of wear 'n tear, genuineness of odo etc.

That NACA Duct clear does crack in Aussie sun or even with pollution mixed with the elements in Japan.

The owner obviously had that cut back and repainted to the extent that the C/F look is no longer there. The finish could be a bit better tho'

Because it's looking to be a fine prospect...

Would the owner be willing to allow the car to be put up on a hoist and inspected by someone who knows their BNR34s?

cheers for all the help guys,

sounds like its still worth a trip to sydney to check it out but im still very suspicious about it.

I will keep you updated on it if i end up going.

there are companies that specilize in written reports on cars (other than RACQ) that do a really good job. right down to compression check magnetting for bog etc etc.

i had this done for my GTST. so i would def do it for any GTR.

it might cost you a few hundred. but they are very thorough and probably still cheaper than the flight.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...