Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my first problem with the car, its intermitantly idleing really high, like 1500rpm in "drive" and 2500 in nuetral.

noticed i had wired the thermo fan up backwards but the car didnt overheat.

as far as i can tell by the boost gauge its still on the correct vacuum at normal idle.

any idea's i need to get this sorted before the starlight charrity cruise on sunday!!!! :(

Funny, I'm not convinced my thermo fan is turning on, but I'm still running about the same water temps as everyone else, ~90deg according to the informeter.

That probably doesn't tell you much, but what vacuum are you showing at idle? What gauge do you have?

Funny, I'm not convinced my thermo fan is turning on, but I'm still running about the same water temps as everyone else, ~90deg according to the informeter.

That probably doesn't tell you much, but what vacuum are you showing at idle? What gauge do you have?

ive got a Autometre sport comp II - idle nuetral and in drive is 15/16 In.Hg

pulled the intake apart there's no signs of oil around the throttle body so its not that.

took the car for a drive to warm it up didnt have any hastles but when i got back i noticed in nuetral its normal at 15In.Hg but in gear its sitting at 19In.Hg

tryed playing with some of the vacuum hoses when i pulled out the one before the solinoid/valve for the fuel breather i think it is, it drops back to around 15/16In.hg so i wonder if thats the problem..............

other than that i cant tell much else.................. any one else had these problems???

Brake booster? Fuel reg or dampener?

The only one I have heard leaking, on almost every M35 I have worked on is the PCV hose, it goes hard and leaks around the fitting on the plenum end. The fuel reg hoses sometimes pop off too.

Heated seats are damn good in winter. But on several occasions I've bumped the switch without realising it and my balls gets toasted..

haha yeah i hated accidently doing that especially in qld.. youd wonder why your legs and back would start sweating until you saw the orange light.

what i found was more disturbing was when you attempted to reverse in snow mode instead of sports mode and it would do that jerk motion like trying to rock itself out of a boggy ditch , and never fully engage the diff

without realising you had flicked the switch. ;)

i only 'had' a rx , everyone seems to have much better ones on the forum if i was going to buy again it would be axis then RS depending on looks/condition . all i had was the heated seats. no lsd , but fortunately no hicas!

(wonders if he'll get shamed out for choosing a c34 instead next time a late model neo based one or a 260rs - theyre getting cheaper!)

Edited by PetroDola
  • 2 weeks later...

already put 10,000Km on her since i bought it gave her my first oil change, went with the royal purple seeing as it was on special and drilled out the turbo oil restrictor bango bolt.

its been an awesome car so far, dont regret for one second buy it. (fuel bills are a bit high but hay its worth it) and on a top note havent had any drama's with her other than my own silly mistake with the boost gauge line getting caught up in the accelerator pedal LOL so touch wood it'll be happy motoring for a long time yet :D

im thankful for all the great info on this site and all the people who take the time to help out, its muchly appreciated.

no real plans for the car in the near future just goin to enjoy it and drive her untill the 2nd quarter of next year then i'll do a few more mods like strut braces and start saving for the turbo mods hopefully it doesnt rear its ugly head to soon!!!

You wont be able to fit a strut brace with the spacer on. Ive got a strut brace and there is just no room for a spacer.

Im tempted to remove it now that Ive got the BCs in, see what difference it makes, but when I first fitted it I felt it straight away. Much more direct and tighter.

i think my BOV is starting to cause more problems than just farting so im looking for an easy aftermarket replacement................. what have you used and what would you recommened.

here's one i found i'll have to find out if its suitable.............. Turbosmart Kompact

any help appreciated :)

I'm using the model up, the Nissan Specific Dual Port: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbosmart-Dual-Port-Blow-Off-Valve-Skyline-R32-R34-/130553048394?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e65916d4a

Just got it Thursday, put it in, and drove with it around the place over the weekend, about 200k on it. A lot more flutter than I was expecting, even after playing with the adjustment all weekend.

I installed it as a plumb back, and it works fine with the stock map. It idles and runs fine no matter what I do to the adjustment.

Reason I went with this one was because Turbosmart told me the Kompact was no good for about 15-16PSI+. Figured I'd give the dual port a crack.

I bought it from those ebay guys above, quick turnaround, everything was good. But when I bought it, the listing was for $US299 with free shipping.

Reason I went with this one was because Turbosmart told me the Kompact was no good for about 15-16PSI+. Figured I'd give the dual port a crack.

Obviously false info, its running fine at 30psi, as long as its plumbed back... :)

Kompact is plumb back only anyway isn't it?

I suspect after talking to Aaron that the person I spoke to didn't know about the stiffer spring. Happy with what I have though, and when I bought it the exchange rate was quite favourable so price was ok.

Although I'm still not sure if the flutter is cool or annoying...

Kompact is plumb back only anyway isn't it?

I suspect after talking to Aaron that the person I spoke to didn't know about the stiffer spring. Happy with what I have though, and when I bought it the exchange rate was quite favourable so price was ok.

Although I'm still not sure if the flutter is cool or annoying...

any chance you can get a "sound clip" of it ???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
×
×
  • Create New...