Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What's the story behind the car with the truck exhaust? :sick: It must be a joke...

its actually a pretty common thing in some groups in japan!!! alot of cars are styled just like that celica..............

its actually a pretty common thing in some groups in japan!!! alot of cars are styled just like that celica..............

Haha, I love the use of the term 'styled'. Like trailer parks sometimes get 'styled' by tornados :laugh:.

its actually a pretty common thing in some groups in japan!!! alot of cars are styled just like that celica..............

Wouldn't say it was pretty common though............ - exhaust is derived from the JDM trend 'Bosozoku style' and the flares are commonly combined with what the Japanese call 'low ride' and is known as 'Shakotan style'...

Edited by prince_skyline
  • 2 weeks later...

i bought a trans temp guage hoping to have a look under the car tomorrow for a spot to install the prob in the sump or maybe in the outlet fluid line to the cooler.............

i bought a trans temp guage hoping to have a look under the car tomorrow for a spot to install the prob in the sump or maybe in the outlet fluid line to the cooler.............

I'd be looking to braze/weld a bung into the sump. Best spot for it.:thumbsup: In the fluid line; you won't know what's going on when in manual mode (the GB isolates the cooler circuit) which is probably when you need it the most.

I've been idly wondering about the worth of welding a series of bungs into the trans sump (or a 1/2"plate tapped with BSP threads) one for temp gauge, one for a temp switch and a couple for a low pressure electric pump fed external cooler.

This would get around the issue of the gearbox bypassing the cooler then in manual tiptronic mode (when it's needed most). I know people reliably use small low pressure VDO pumps to scavenge and return oil to the sump in turbo setups where the drains are below sump level.

That said; it might be a bit more effort and expanse than is absolutely necessary...

An interesting thread for some detail; http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm

Edited by Daleo

I'd be looking to braze/weld a bung into the sump. Best spot for it.:thumbsup: In the fluid line; you won't know what's going on when in manual mode (the GB isolates the cooler circuit) which is probably when you need it the most.

exactly!!!! some people might think its a waste of time but i think its important seeing as i have it in manual mode 90% of the time and i dont want to destroy the fluid or the GB.

I've been idly wondering about the worth of welding a series of bungs into the trans sump (or a 1/2"plate tapped with BSP threads) one for temp gauge, one for a temp switch and a couple for a low pressure electric pump fed external cooler.

yeah might aswell get 4 bungs put in cant hurt really.

If you drive around in manual a lot why don't you try Aaron and Scotty's unlock mod? Its on here somewhere if you search, or I've got it bookmarked at home. Makes the cooler work all the time, even when it's in manual mode.

I'm looking at doing it when I get the shift kit and trans cooler in.

If you drive around in manual a lot why don't you try Aaron and Scotty's unlock mod? Its on here somewhere if you search, or I've got it bookmarked at home. Makes the cooler work all the time, even when it's in manual mode.

I'm looking at doing it when I get the shift kit and trans cooler in.

Doesn't that unlock the converter too?

I'd just like to be able to run the cooler when in manual mode with the converter locked. I'm pretty sure the unlock mod is pretty devastating for fuel economy too...

Doesn't that unlock the converter too?

I'd just like to be able to run the cooler when in manual mode with the converter locked. I'm pretty sure the unlock mod is pretty devastating for fuel economy too...

I'd heard that from Aaron, & it would want to be a great mod before I decided to go backwards on fuel economy. My ethos is always 'more for less', & I'm not sure that mod fits the job description.

yeah there's no way im doing wire cut mods........ and yeah the idea of the converter always being open and loosing power and fuel ecconomy its not worth it!!!!

Dale's idea with an external feed/pump to a cooler is probly the best way of doing it!!!

yeah there's no way im doing wire cut mods........ and yeah the idea of the converter always being open and loosing power and fuel ecconomy its not worth it!!!!

Dale's idea with an external feed/pump to a cooler is probly the best way of doing it!!!

I don't think you lose power as such; because the converter is open, it'll actually build boost quicker because it flares a little.

The only issues I can see are the obvious necessity of a $250 pump & attendant lines, and a cooler; that's before you factor in modifying the sump with internal pick up and returns at opposite ends, to ensure you're cooling effectively, not just re-cooling the oil that just came out of the return.

Also, it's added complication when a decent sized cooler and a thermostat will probably do the job 90% of the time.

  • 2 weeks later...

Tell me if I'm wrong, but surely driving in manual mode for a few minutes and then chucking it back in D would be fine? Let everything cool off and then have some fun again?

I fairly regularly drop it back into 2nd to drive through a roundabout and then chuck it back into D. *shrugs*

Tell me if I'm wrong, but surely driving in manual mode for a few minutes and then chucking it back in D would be fine? Let everything cool off and then have some fun again?

I fairly regularly drop it back into 2nd to drive through a roundabout and then chuck it back into D. *shrugs*

It depends on load I guess.....I know when my car was stock it was not a huge issue going across the gate all the time but I never stayed there more than a couple of minutes. But... with a little bit of HP/NM the standard GB cooks pretty quickly(better once the HD2 kit is done)........a couple of minutes wont hurt though imo......best idea is to knock it across the gate after the second gear shift.......with the standard turbo revving the thing to 6,500rpm is a waist anyway + your already doing over 110km's.

Mind you Paul you will find after you do a couple of the VB's a difference in oil colour between those who drive across the gate all the time and those that don't.

Edited by Jetwreck

I was thinking of drawing up a simple mod to allow the ATF to pump thru the cooler whilst in manual mode, BUT switch back to standard when in D, thus not buggering my exceptional fuel economy. I'll work on this soon, maybe this weekend, & post some results if anyone is interested.

Craig, I wouldn't have though there'd be that much difference in fluid colour (I'm guessing some looked a bit 'burnt'?) so I will be using manual mode sparingly until I sort something.

im interested. Would this be a wiring mod or require any additional parts beyond a switch/wires??

Maybe a relay so it happens automatically, but it shouldn't cost more than pocket change. I haven't had more than a cursory glance, but noticed a few things when reading up on speed wires for the cruise control.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...