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  • 1 month later...

I visited Johnny last month and won a bet. Johnny bet I could have a steer if I could get n and out of the zed cleanly. Much to his disappointment I fit in there nice and snug. It's a nice cockpit. Looking forward to a test drive soon!

Car is looking very serious now. It should be well up the point end. :)

Custom lightened flywheel (4.5kg) to suit 7 1/4 (184mm) twin plate motorsport clutch. This flywheel matches the VQ30DE with bell housing adapter and Z32 gearbox.

7 1/4 (184mm) twin plate motorsport clutch.

My link

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

After busting a head gasket at Superlap on the stock motor and finding it's limit, we are now bulding a tuff motor and increasing to 3.5 litre. Using Darton Sleave kit (closed deck) using VQ35HR head gaskets which are much better. This requires modifying the engines coolant flow and does away with the two rear thermostats, yes the VQ30DET runs three thermostats and high temp ones for emissions reasons, they open at 95 and 105C, crazy and not good for racing. We are using a VQ35 crank, modifying the block, forged rods and pistons. Whilst at it we have slightly ported and then polished them and domes. We relieved the dome to match the 95.5mm pistons up from 93mm. Also adding ARP main studs. We had everything Cryo treated.

After busting a head gasket at Superlap on the stock motor and finding it's limit, we are now bulding a tuff motor and increasing to 3.5 litre. Using Darton Sleave kit (closed deck) using VQ35HR head gaskets which are much better. This requires modifying the engines coolant flow and does away with the two rear thermostats, yes the VQ30DET runs three thermostats and high temp ones for emissions reasons, they open at 95 and 105C, crazy and not good for racing. We are using a VQ35 crank, modifying the block, forged rods and pistons. Whilst at it we have slightly ported and then polished them and domes. We relieved the dome to match the 95.5mm pistons up from 93mm. Also adding ARP main studs. We had everything Cryo treated.

  • 9 months later...

Custom lightened flywheel (4.5kg) to suit 7 1/4 (184mm) twin plate motorsport clutch. This flywheel matches the VQ30DE with bell housing adapter and Z32 gearbox.

Pm'd about the adaptor

7 1/4 (184mm) twin plate motorsport clutch.

My link

  • 1 month later...

After busting a head gasket at Superlap on the stock motor and finding it's limit, we are now bulding a tuff motor and increasing to 3.5 litre. Using Darton Sleave kit (closed deck) using VQ35HR head gaskets which are much better. This requires modifying the engines coolant flow and does away with the two rear thermostats, yes the VQ30DET runs three thermostats and high temp ones for emissions reasons, they open at 95 and 105C, crazy and not good for racing. We are using a VQ35 crank, modifying the block, forged rods and pistons. Whilst at it we have slightly ported and then polished them and domes. We relieved the dome to match the 95.5mm pistons up from 93mm. Also adding ARP main studs. We had everything Cryo treated.

I was thinking about this.. you're making a vq30 a vq35 basically by swapping the internals. A vq35 head flows more and you could possibly fit the vq35 heads with some mods... but all that work to make a vq30 a 35 why not just buy a 35?

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

It's been a long while we haven't put an update for our Slot Car now with VQ35 & twin 3071 turbo's.

Here are the links for the latest updates.

http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/PAGE15.htm

http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/PAGE16.htm

  • 6 months later...

Here's the link to our new website.

http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/gallery/project-unique-zed.aspx

Won't be going to WTAC this year, it's just out of our budget at the moment. We'll be there though helping and watching, keen as!

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    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
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