Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Replacement Camshaft Position Sensors?

GlennM35

By GlennM35,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

mym35
mym35

I have had the same issue come up "bank 1 camshaft sensor." Scott was as usual able to help out with both sensors I decided to replace both (aftermarket ) and they are fine after 2 weeks.I can,t speak

PN-Mad
PN-Mad

They are both located in the same respective place on the back of the heads of the engine. Bank one is the drivers side. They have one 10mm bolt holding them in. http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/

joshm35
joshm35

Do the relearn. It will help

pomnz Enthusiast

pomnz

Posted
Posted

This happened to me this week several times. Had been recalled too. Going in tomorrow for this and other fixes for WoF. 241,00kms.

I've got a fault Code reader you can use if u r in akld?

STAG250 Community Regular

STAG250

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've got a fault Code reader you can use if u r in akld?

Thanks but I did the work already. $1,300 later (sensor $148 +gst)...I got my WoF. And it was 246,000 kms not 241. Here's hoping. BTW Nolethane bushes are now available for those control arms at about NZD 100 each.

Edited by STAG250
pomnz Enthusiast

pomnz

Posted
Posted

Brake calipers were a pig to get off.

I know this to be true, I did mine DIY style a bit ago. I ended up lowering the car off the jack so that my breaker bar was on the ground to give me the leverage, there's a groove in the concrete floor of my garage now...........

dasic1 Collaborator

dasic1

Posted
Posted

I got this code a few weeks ago. Cleared it and it came back last week. Also had it stall and took a bit to get started again.

Do you know what the plain silver circle is for, I have that one not the one with writing

  • 5 months later...
projects Contributor

projects

Posted
Posted

hi guys, so im digging up yet another old thread with hope ill eventually have a working M35.

i think my warm start issue is down to some faulty sensors, the cold start is perfect and fires up fine every time. but once ive driven the car and its built up a bit of heat under the bonnet the car struggles to start again. once its been sitting for awhile it'l fire again. A question i had with regards to the stickers under the bonnet was what do they mean? i have 1 sticker with the R168 on it. but no blank sticker?

  • 8 months later...
mym35 Collaborator

mym35

Posted
Posted

Where are you? I have some spares to try if you are in Melbourne.

I have had the same issue come up "bank 1 camshaft sensor." Scott was as usual able to help out with both sensors I decided to replace both (aftermarket ) and they are fine after 2 weeks.I can,t speak highly enough how helpful Scott is and how reasonable his pricing is.

Thanks again Scott

Graham

  • Like 1
winston82 Apprentice

winston82

Posted
Posted

i see this is an older topic - my car (m35 axis) threw a cam sensor error bank 1 position 1. I assumed they were the sensors on the front of the engine. But reading here doesn't seem to be the case. Does anyone know what the 2 blue sensors are that go into the heads?? and where the cam sensors are located, especially bank 1 pos. 1.

thanks

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

They are both located in the same respective place on the back of the heads of the engine.

Bank one is the drivers side. They have one 10mm bolt holding them in.

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/attachments/f23/33205d1313103000-crankshaft-position-sensor-location-2005frontier-camshaftsensors.jpg

  • Like 1
PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Send Scotty a PM

I believe he has some, or contacts to some cheap items. Defiantly don't buy from nissan. Importing from the US is the other option, they are cheap there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...