Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Went for a drive tonight in the rain and noticed that when I accelerated a creaking/clicking sound can be heard from the front passenger area.

I had a look under the wheel well but cannot find anything suspect.

Thought it might be the CV boot but I thought that only clicked when you are in full wheel lock?

any idea?

Have a look a re-greasing your spline axle , i have had this issue with all 3 Nissans ive owned , same clicking prob every time !

hope this helps !!!!!!

Edited by NISSAN GTR

There's a Nissan service bulletin on clicking axles as referred to by a few guys earlier. Maybe there is something in that?

I know you said it was coming from the front, but maybe the sound's playing tricks on you...

http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=104

There's a Nissan service bulletin on clicking axles as referred to by a few guys earlier. Maybe there is something in that?

I know you said it was coming from the front, but maybe the sound's playing tricks on you...

http://www.m35stagea...c.php?f=2&t=104

Interesting...

Whats even more interesting is that I think the issue is caused by water/moisture.

The only days where I hear this clicking is when its raining hard...and today, as I drove to work, I had to go through a big puddle.

As soon as I drove out of the puddle the clicking noise returns...

WTF?

I have the same noise, its not very noticeable but under hard acceleration it makes a creak noise. At first I thought it was pinging, but had that checked and it only does it when the drive train loads up. I was told a warn bush or swaybar link could cause it.

I have the same noise, its not very noticeable but under hard acceleration it makes a creak noise. At first I thought it was pinging, but had that checked and it only does it when the drive train loads up. I was told a warn bush or swaybar link could cause it.

found a good list here:

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/automobile-clicking-sound

I'm thinking either:

Shocks/swaybar/CV boot

Issue is. Why is it only noticable AFTER it gets wet??

did you bring it around to scotts for him to hear?

maybe its an electrical short? they make clicking sounds..

mine was and I found out when I shoved boost line through one of the gromets there was a water leak..

this would screw up my indicators etc.. and only when it rained as yours is.

but it made a clicking sound/which is also an electrical short sound...

it could also probably explain your leak in the car..

did you bring it around to scotts for him to hear?

maybe its an electrical short? they make clicking sounds..

mine was and I found out when I shoved boost line through one of the gromets there was a water leak..

this would screw up my indicators etc.. and only when it rained as yours is.

but it made a clicking sound/which is also an electrical short sound...

it could also probably explain your leak in the car..

hmm nah didn't get a chance to go to Scott's last nite....

Probably go around this weekend...I'm fairly certain its not an electrical sound though,.....garrrh dunno.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...