Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's says 12mm bungs to allow various configs,

What size are most fittings/lines people using?

I'm sure it could be modified to suit bigger.

You'd need two if you were going serious e85 power, but then youd probably just have a conventional surge setup anyway,

Even two would be still quite manageable and neat I'd think though.

Edited by jangles

stumbled across this. VW/audi world

is ~4 diameter, ~8.5" long

http://www.034motors...nk-p-21527.html

great find and would be such a nice setup. Is 1litre enough though?

I remember talking to Robbie ward about this and his recommendation was a 3litre surge tank?

Read the info!!

Factory feed and return to tank,

Pump to rail, rail to surge.

How long would it take to completely empty 1l with an 044, plus 2m of line, with nothing returning to the surge?

It's designed for far smaller cars, but, It would be a far better option than just installing a pump by itself. It is never uncovered until zero fuel. 2xpumps paralleled would make it a 2l surge,

It's says 12mm bungs to allow various configs,

What size are most fittings/lines people using?

I'm sure it could be modified to suit bigger.

You'd need two if you were going serious e85 power, but then youd probably just have a conventional surge setup anyway,

Even two would be still quite manageable and neat I'd think though.

Dash 6 is the most common, dash 8 for some i think.

It's a well thought out little device, but yes as you said if you're E85 you'd have 2 pumps and a larger tank anyway.

This would suit anyone IMO who's on either E85 or pump fuel and around 350kw because they just dont need that extra pump.

Very good find!

How long would it take to completely empty 1l with an 044, plus 2m of line, with nothing returning to the surge?

Well depends on voltage and how wide the ID of the line is, but you'd be able to have a safe guesstimate of about 30 seconds based on 300lph and a big line ID (enough for 1.5L).

Are the surge tanks really nessesary, 2 nights ago I throught to myself I'm going to put a end to all this talk about surge tanks and test my setup.

Got some decent windy roads around my way, they all private of coarse.... So my tank was low, like the light was on and the needle only just on the E white line.

And I was into it, throwing it into the corners, coming out of them sideways foot flat, up too 140+ and back down to 40 around some of the bends...... Not 1 drop of surge, nothing it was like I had a full tank of fuel..... This is 330kw -5's on 98, but still it was a low tank.

I don't see the need for a surge tank in a street/track car.... And for a track car, just go buy a fuel cell.....

Keep it simple guys, less sht goes wrong.

I mean on the track you would make sure you have over 1/2 a tank in the car before each session, it's really not a hard thing to do, and 100% you'll have no issues....

  • 9 months later...

Old thread bump here haha but I have my pierburg still not installed...I'm going to take the plunge and remove my surge tank with 044 and run this damn pump on its own, submerged in tank.

I kinda feel like I'm going backwards by removing my surge tank with 044 but I don't think I need this setup for ~350kw

Pierburg pumps are good, they are the only pumps that can pull fuel up a hose, which is why I use one as a fuel transfer pump for draining tanks.

A surge tank is not related to a particular power, it's how you drive, hard cornering and drag launches on less than half tank that require engine protection against fuel surge. I would leave the 044 setup unless you putt around town.

Old thread bump here haha but I have my pierburg still not installed...I'm going to take the plunge and remove my surge tank with 044 and run this damn pump on its own, submerged in tank.

I kinda feel like I'm going backwards by removing my surge tank with 044 but I don't think I need this setup for ~350kw

You said it yourself mate, you're going backwards. It's in there, it works, leave what isn't broken, alone!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...