Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i hammered in the rear restrictor about 20mm then filled it to the top of the block with that liquid metal stuff you mix together with your fingers.

1.5 restrictor at the front and i brazed up the vct feed and drilled it to 1.5mm

n1 pump. I had problems on the dyno with oil blowing out the rocker breathers and i figured i had a bit of blowby and the oil could not drain back so i just pulled out the dipstick and have had no problems!

  • 1 month later...

Please don't use the standard restrictors.

I've had 3 sets of restrictors in mine. - R32 RB25DE Head.

  1. Standard (over 5500rpm = filled catch can)
  2. blocked rear with a 1.5mm front (not enough oil on start up)
  3. and finally 2 x 1.3mm which is perfect.

RB25det - blocked rear and a 1.5mm is apparently ok. Others may be able to share their cold start storys with the same setup.

The blocked rear and 1.5mm up front was fine once warm but cold starts I could hear something knocking about up top rear on the exhaust side - coincidentally that's the furthest away from the front 1.5mm restrictor.

With the 2 x 1.3mm all noises disappeared and all sounds sweet again. Also - no catch can filling either.

  • 4 weeks later...

hey guys i have a question, i have rb30et bottom end with s1 r33 rb25 head, thinking of running the stock rb30et oil pump

and most of the time i will be using it on the track. what oil restrictors would i need to use/get if any at all?

sorry for the n00bness :worship:

Please don't use the standard restrictors.

I've had 3 sets of restrictors in mine. - R32 RB25DE Head.

  1. Standard (over 5500rpm = filled catch can)
  2. blocked rear with a 1.5mm front (not enough oil on start up)
  3. and finally 2 x 1.3mm which is perfect.

RB25det - blocked rear and a 1.5mm is apparently ok. Others may be able to share their cold start storys with the same setup.

The blocked rear and 1.5mm up front was fine once warm but cold starts I could hear something knocking about up top rear on the exhaust side - coincidentally that's the furthest away from the front 1.5mm restrictor.

With the 2 x 1.3mm all noises disappeared and all sounds sweet again. Also - no catch can filling either.

+1 for using two 1.3mm restrictors.

Just using one 1.5mm might be ok for a solid lifter setup.

my setup with 2x 1.5mm was still pumping way too much oil to the head as soon as you took it past 6000. its just been changed to 1x 1.5mm and 1x 1mm with a couple extra oil drains directly to the sump for good measure.

will see how it goes this time round.

1x 1.5mm is not enough for the hydraulic lifters (for solids sure that will work), 2x 1mm can be hit and miss, works for some gives lots of lifter noise for others.

when i brought my oil restrictors i just brought 2 blanks, one of which im drilling out to 1.5mm. iv already put the blank in ontop of the rear oil restrictor and its nice tight fit

I'm getting a adjustable feed for my 25/30 oil control problem, it is externally adjustable and will be set so when at high rpm the oil will be high enough for cooling and lubrication but will not overflow, by rights this should still see enough oil at low rpm to feed my lifters.

With my 2 head drains and the drain from the can to the sump hopefully the oil is going to stay in the motor.

Hopefully.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...