Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AFAIK white smoke = burnt oil. Maybe rings worn a little? If it's happening every time you start the car when cold, it might be worth getting an opinion from a mechanic. There could even be some products you could add to the oil to reduce wear & perhaps stop the smoke. There a Nulon one that I swear by; an 80,000km treatment which I use on all my cars,

Are you running really thin oil Josh? If so, you could experiment next oil change by using the next one up.

Just ask them what it is. A lot of guys are running 0W-30 (or something similar) which is pretty thin. Just changing to a 5W or 10W could make a lot of difference & it's still what I'd consider thin.

I had a crap V8 clunker as a teenager which I ran straight 50 in to stop it smoking pinch.gif .

10w40 feels the best in my engine and offers much more bearing protection.

My car used to smoke a little at startup, then I realised it was the pcv valve sucking all the oil mist up and dumping it into the middle plenum runners. Once I fitted a catch can in line it all stopped.

No water from what I can see. Hmm I know with my aristo I replaced my stem seals and that fixed the issue

I'd be leaning towards stem seals for this, stems seals will also do this after an extended period of idling, then put under load.

Or as Scotty said, PCV issues.:thumbsup:

oil smoke is blue

Not if you have enough of it. A fine mist; yes. Large amounts; no. Turbo shaft seal failure dropping oil into a 600-800deg exhaust billows massive clouds of white smoke.

Hell; a big capacity turbo diesel, running very lean blows white smoke!

I know exactly what you mean; not trying to split hairs, but anyway.

Edited by Daleo

AFAIK white smoke = burnt oil. Maybe rings worn a little? If it's happening every time you start the car when cold, it might be worth getting an opinion from a mechanic. There could even be some products you could add to the oil to reduce wear & perhaps stop the smoke. There a Nulon one that I swear by; an 80,000km treatment which I use on all my cars,

Are you running really thin oil Josh? If so, you could experiment next oil change by using the next one up.

Have been told that the 80K nulon treatment results in hot spots as it builds up in low spots?

Just ask them what it is. A lot of guys are running 0W-30 (or something similar) which is pretty thin. Just changing to a 5W or 10W could make a lot of difference & it's still what I'd consider thin.

I had a crap V8 clunker as a teenager which I ran straight 50 in to stop it smoking pinch.gif .

That V8 clunker would have worn out even quicker as it had less protection at start up and until fully warmed up.

IMO "stop smoke" type additives and thicker oil are a bad idea. They might mask the symptoms but will also accelerate the wear that is causing the smoking. Keep topping up until sorted.

Is it using oil?

Edited by Old Gregg

Have been told that the 80K nulon treatment results in hot spots as it builds up in low spots?

That V8 clunker would have worn out even quicker as it had less protection at start up and until fully warmed up.

No, haven't heard of that. Will ask around..

No protection at startup? Not if it had an 80K treatment in it :rolleyes:

Actually, I ran Slick 50 in those days. I could run the engine without oil if I wanted. Then it wouldn't blow smoke, but was too noisy pinch.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...